★ Horseplay 17

Immediately downstream of STRAIGHT JERRY is a buttress split by a groove starting at 15m and capped by a large overhang. Scramble 15m to the base of the recess.

1. 12m 15 Ascend the steep recess by bridging or chimneying until the angle relents. Continue up to a stance on the left.

2. 12m 13 Step back into the groove and ascend to detached blocks on the right to belay below the large overhangs.

3. 11m 17 Move up a short steep groove above the detached blocks until a good handrail is reached. Swing left and make an awkward move to gain the broad ledge further left. (This ledge is on a nose halfway through the overhangs.) Continue at this level and descend to a tree belay around the corner. Alternatively, once on the broad ledge, move up to a large block under the overhang and ascend directly from this with strenuous moves (19). Continue directly up the face above the overhang and continue to the top.

4. 18m 13 From the tree belay ascend the wall above to a good handrail. Traverse right onto the front face above the overhang and continue to the top.

Note:

Generally on sound, clean rock. Pitches 3 and 4 provide exposed climbing.

Bolting is prohibited.