Routes in Far Western Buttress

Easy, but interesting climbing.

Either abseil down Jack the Ripper and walk West or abseil off the blocks at the top of the cliff ~50m East of the Utopia access abseil. Both abseils are ~40m.

The route name is painted on the rock at the base of the cliff.

(1) Climb a shallow recess for a few metres before traversing left onto an easy face. Climb the face to a ledge and then walk left to some blocks, belay here.

(2) Climb the corner left of the blocks until reaching a ledge to the left with large flakes leaning against the face. Traverse the ledge until able to climb directly up to finish. Alternatively, traverse along the top of the flakes (awkward).

1. Fun first pitch straight up to under the huge roof. Nice jugs, good gear and exposure... Just a fun climb. The finish of the first pitch is located under the roof in a right angle corner with good gear and a solid ledge.

2. The second pitch is a traverse out right with HUGE exposure. This is a rather long pitch which bends around a corner making communication difficult. There is relatively good gear but what makes the pitch hard is the exposure. If the wind is strong you might battle with balance. This pitch can be done in two if you stop right before climber and belayer loose sight of each other in a small cave. This is not recommended but is always an option. The second pitch is supposed to end on a rather big ledge with a small tree growing out of it. There is plenty of space to sit and rest before finishing the climb. There is a great view from here.

3. The last pitch heads straight up to the top and can also be done in two pitches however that shouldn't be needed to be done. You should come out under some trees but don't stress too much if you are slightly off route.

It is recommended that you take someone who has climbed this before as it is extremely difficult to locate both the decent anchors as well as the start of the climb.