Routes in Mpumalanga

In the descent gully on left. Start at the same base as Jack In A Box but veers up left to the hanging bolts.

In the descent gully on left. Starts from the centre of the shelf and follows bolts direct to the top.

At the bottom of the descent gully, round the left facing out to the valley. Start centre of slab and goes direct staying right of the feature.

Find the secret entrance to a corridor hidden amongst the blocks. At the base of the descent gully into the Mayhem.

Once down the gully, turn left instead of right, it’s after about 20 meters and can be seen from the top. Hangers are all painted brown. The climb starts in a corner where you gain a ledge, and the climbing starts. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/ MCSA

Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face.

Currently, the route closest to the waterfall. A tricky start leads to some fun and heady pulling.

Start off the tree stump and head leftwards.Hardware provided by MCSA.

Shares the first 3 bolts with 'Pompeii' then heads straight up. Hardware provided by MCSA.

Starts in a damp section between 'Deep Impact' & 'Pandora's Box' and leads onto marvelous meandering Mayhem magic.

Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! MCSA bolts.

In front of a small clearing and a large yellow arrow painted on a boulder.

Starts off a large boulder. Up then rail wildly left then up the leaning prow to some trickery, way too much fun. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic? Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Starts at yellow wood tree, left of 'Changeling'. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains.

Climb the open book corner to the left of 'Lunatic Fringe'. Try not to use the dodgy looking block low down.

Start in the corner of 'Changeling' then head right and up the fun technical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of 'Lunatic Fringe'. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Starts just beside a small tree at an overlap. Powerful start with endurance wall climbing above. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Couple meters right of the above, with some hardness passing an overlap low down. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Up the face to the left of 'Burning Man', over the roof and to right and then back left at the top. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Up the middle of the obvious stellar red wall. A bouldery start (don’t cheat by starting on the left), and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail right then back left to some trickery. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Busts up the giant rib like rock formation between the two huge cracks. Traverse in from the left on the jug rail till below the big splitter cracks, trixy moves and fun climbing to the top. Topped out to the left but finishing on 'Dead Cows Can't Dance' might make for a more pleasurable clean. Bomber gear. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. Not particularly well bolted to be careful placing draws if it’s at your limit. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Starts in the corner and heads up through the big roofs. Full set of spectacular moves makes for a magical finale.

Climbs the diagonal ramp and exit by the easy break to the top.

10 meters right (facing the cliff) of 'Dead Cows Can't Dance' is a blank wall with a faint crack line up its right side. Starts by a tree stump. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Stay in the open book after clipping the 3rd bolt to avoid a bad fall. Campus on the arete for extra points. Much easier if you are a tall sapiens: about 21.

A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

The obvious large crack/layback. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

immediately to the right of the crack. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

Starts in the corner behind the thicket, past through the roof with a grunt, might be nice to have a draw in the bolt ‘above the lip’. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

The beautiful technical red face (see photo) then wild moves through the roof. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

Start a few meters right of Slaughterhouse 5. pre-clip 2nd draw to avoid awakward fall under the roof.

As the path starts a sharp descent, the route starts in the red corner. Stick to the corner and move left at third bolt. Using the precarious looking block higher up lowers the grade. Bolts rather close in places…

Obvious crack to the right of 'Hidden Fire'. Chains at the top.

The face immediately to the right of 'Psycho Bambi'.

Starts at tree 6m to the right of 'Psycho Bambi'. Might be harder if you're short. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Climb the chimney to the right of 'Gone in 60 Seconds'. Finish on the left.

At the far end of the gully in the corner. Climb the corner snaking right around the tree and topping out above it again.

[N, A] Hidden in the corridor just left of 'Blue Stingray Boots'. Busts up the obvious crack in the stack. Fun fun fun. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Climbs the face on the free-standing pillar 20m right of Hop Toad.

Climbs a corner halfway between the embankment and 'Gone in 60 seconds'.

Starts in the corridor next to Alex's project, then move left for some tricky sustained slabby deliciousness.

The arête just left of 'Marakas'. The perfect corner climb.

Left of 'Drill Sergeant', at the back of the ‘embankment’. Climb the obvious crack/flake with some balance and technique. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

The corner 5 meters left of 'Sharpen Up Cupcake'. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

From the gully, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood there is an ‘embankment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Corner crack situated at the bottom of the pillar gully, just before 2m high roof. Kick things off by trust falling across the gap between the pedestal and wall to gain access to the corner crack. Bust through a small roof and continue up the widening crack to the top. Lekker climbing with good protection throughout!

Starts around the corner from BROWN TOWN, climb the obvious ledgey corner to the top. Was not cleaned, no loose rock but a fair amount of grass.

Starts in a right facing corner 50m left of the corridor gully. Climb the thin fingertips corner to a good stem rest at a cubby. Climb the corner above to the small roof, jug haul through the roof and all the way to the top! Extremely fun climbing and good protection all the way! Cleaned and ready for action!

4m right of 'Chikamasa'. Climb the jagged wide crack past the tree on one's right and up to a cubby capped by a small roof. Beware of the razor edge on your rope and runners. Top out and anchor on a shrub in the veld.

Approximately 14m after exiting the passageway, in a corner guarded by an outhouse sized block is a clean, consistent, right facing corner crack.

“Tanning naked.” Start on a tricky slab, mantle then follow a right trending ramp to join the arête. Nice moves and views take you to the top.

Boven's finest in a nutshell: crack, arete, roof and sexy face. Amazingly sustained and epic moves throughout.

Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing.

Climbs the obvious lightning bolt crack that can be seen from the deck above the corruption sector. Start in the deep chimney at the base of the wide Z crack. Climb the wandering crack and face all the way to the top. If you are so inclined to avoid the spice, take some larger cams. Don't forget to do your safety dance!!

Steep leftward facing crack line. Tree at base in the way of starting moves. Use extra rope to pull tree back to leave unharmed. Follow obvious left tending crack. Insane. Insane. Busts to the ledge above and then up right and out to a lower-off tree. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Follows the straight crack on the left side of the face. Directly left of 'Pick of Destiny'. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Potential line with thin rockstack flake that might be the end of me.

Starts left of tree. Sketchy bouldery start to some great gear a few meters up. Follow natural slotted bomber flakes up, straight up to the tip of the cliff line. Permission has been given to retro bolt.

Starts on a slightly elevated grassy platform behind a tree. Busts up the obvious splitter crack in the corner. Follows the left hand big crack all the way to the top with some sketchy spice at the end. Variation of the uber classic original line, John Doe. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Starts on a slightly elevated grassy platform behind a tree. Busts up the obvious splitter crack in the corner. Head out right following the smaller crack line of goodness, instead of the straight up deadly Jane Doe variation. Real stellar climbing. Pick this one. Warmup classic. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Starts in the cover of the trees. Step through the tree into the chimney and make your way up to the first gear a few meters above deck. Bomber gear all the way. Climb slightly overhanging face up bomber cracks. Easier than it looks. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

At the bottom of the gully is a free-standing tower. This mini alpine route starts in the slot to the right past a tree. Ubolts lead rightwards up the stepped slab to anchors on the higher summit. Some closely spaced bolts protect each step.

Hard-looking direct route through a flat face. Starting up the cave slot (as for 'The Raven') gain the face above. Follow the cracks and grooves to anchors. May be 21 for the tall.

Tagged. Great bolt-protected traddy climbing, with the same start as the MOTRD. After clipping the second bolt, move 3m right to the jam crack passing an intermediate U-bolt. One way to do this is to stand on the ledge, then undercling the roof! Jam to the summit.

Shorter than the 'The Raven' but has all the excellent hand jamming. Start off the top of a rock 4m right of 'The Raven', about halfway down the gully. Pull directly up into 'The Raven' jam crack.

6m right of 'The Raven'. Start at a blankish face below a groove 4m up. Climb past the groove to anchors. Easier if you are tall.

9m right of 'The Raven' at the rock step (same as 'Poisonwood Bible'). Climb up and diagonally left to anchors.

(Closed) 9m right of 'The Raven', goes straight up. Now closed pending safety assessment – loose blocks.

Don’t damage it! Opposite 'Poisonwood Bible' at the rock step (facing E) climb the break to a steep finish.

Opposite 'The Hobbit' start is a beautiful layback crack which widens slightly at half height.

A short diagonal hand/fist crack starts this climb, 2m down from 'The RAven'(opposite wall). Continue up the scruffy break to anchors on the right.

Brilliant! 3m left of 'The BFG'. Climb the crack that starts 1.5m up.

The left of 2 bottomless parallel cracks in the center of the face. Start 5m up the gully from 'The Lorax'.

Easier start to 'The Lorax' crack. Climb the right crack starting 4m up the gully from 'The Lorax'.

Tagged. Original start. Climbs into the right crack starting 2m right of a small tree under the crack.

Has a left slanting crack in the upper section. Start directly under the crack, 4m right of 'The Lorax' tag. An optional extension goes 2-3m up to a 2nd set of anchors on the right.

Starting 6 -7m right of 'The Lorax', climb past the overlap into a groove. Figure out which is the easier finish for you.

Unique pocketed orange wall. Can be seen from the top and accessed by abseil, its on the section almost directly (a little to the south) in front and below of the cow skull cairn. Or can be accessed by walking 180m left (facing the crag) from the 'Narrow Gully' (see above), shortly after the ‘grey slabs'. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/@mountain_club_of_south_africa

The obvious crack in the corner 20m left of the bolted slab project of Jahne. Follow the crack up the slab and overhang and tend right toward the very end. Super fun for the whole family.

A good 160m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40m wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Stolen Goods takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some technical footwork and a leap of faith. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

Starts right of a little tree growing out of a crack one meter above the ground. Follows the crack lines left past the roof following the offwidth. Still needs cleaning.

Follows a rightward tending set of cracks up into the chimney exiting out the loose looking recess. Some gardening may be required for this one. Good gear.

Starts left of the tiny 'Dr Evil' roof to the right of a precarious pile that should be avoided at all cost. These blocks can go at anytime. Make its way up the cracks tending out right toward the anchor tree above 'Dr Evil'.

Starts under the tiny roof a few meters up. Follow the crack that bisects the roof all the way to the top at the anchor tree. This is an uberclassic.

Starts to the right of 'Dr Evil' on the corner. A unique vertical crack set making its way to the anchor tree makes for phenomenal climbing.

A few meters right and around the corner of Jahne's Slab project. Big flat block base. Follows the openbook left corner that starts desperately under some blocks and then moves into a thin thin overhanging crack with feet still on slab. Dont chicken out left Opened on gear.

Starts directly right of 'Double Dealings'. Climbs inside the fin, out onto the face following a crazy fine line of crimps in the perfect sequence to keep you shuffling your feet.

Fun flowing crack that looks really inviting. Climb it. Starts 4m right of 'Double Dealings', stepping across from the slab to begin. Opened on gear.

Climbs the intermittent crack system to the left of 'Supervixen'. Pull through the lower roof and follow the break between dark brown and orange rock until a wide rail just below the top of the cliff. Shares the anchors and a glass of whisky with 'Supervixen'

Climbs the crack system 8m right of a big block. This climb is found where the path rises to an enchanting platform.

Half way between 'Supervixen' and 'Surrender your Innocence' is a series of vertical cracks and blocky steps covered in moss. Start by climbing the large crack on the right briefly until it becomes too wide. Traverse left 2m and climb up to top out left of a small vegetated gully. Anchor on boulders quite far back but belay closer to the edge as comms is an issue. Beware of loose blocks!

When approaching from the Library, go past a jumble of rocks where a steep gully comes down the cliff. The route climbs the face just left of 'Cheap Thrill'

Starts in the chimney to the left of 'Time Bandit

This is a spectacular crack line on an arête that climbs up behind a yellow wood. Amazing climbing, a truly unique feature. Line is just to the right of Jeane's slab. Open on Gear

Big open-book with a large crack. Starts under a tiny roof and ends after a tiny roof. Opened on gear.

Starts as for 'Payola', sharing the first 2 bolts, then make your way right onto the arête for some balancy trippy toe tingling twisting.