Routes in Eagle's Head Mountain

1. 40m (18) 13D. This pitch ends on a large ledge below the overhanging Red Wall. One-bolt belay.

2. 25m (20) 15D. Climb back and clip the last bolt of the previous pitch and continue up.

3. 25m (11) 6D. This pitch takes you to the top.

Abseil back down the route. From the anchors at the top of pitch 2, abseil over the edge and onto the ledge below the Red Wall. The final abseil bolts are located on the clean rock face adjacent to the extreme right-hand side of the ledge. After the final abseil scramble down an easy gully to reach the base of the crag. Tie a knot in the end of your rope - this pitch is almost 35m long.

Left-hand side line of bolt on the overhanging red wall slanting to the right, midway up the face. Stick clip recommended. Rebolted by Andrew Pedley in 2012.

This is actually quite a moderate route and is over-graded in comparison to other routes in the area (and country, in general). The fourth pitch, currently graded 15, is probably 9 and no other pitch harder than 16/17.

Note that the route is laid out in a manner entirely different to other routes in the area - some pitches are in excess of 50m long and require as many as 20 quickdraws. A 60m rope is necessary.

It is possible to avoid the final pitch by walking off towards the left. Descend by hiking around the back of the mountain and down the gully between Eagle Crag and Eagle's Head.

Be aware that there are chains in the vicinity of the top of the route that appear to be abseil chains, however, it is unclear whether it is possible to abseil the route and at least one party has been rescued after becoming stranded on a ledge.

1. 25m (19) 10D

2. Project

Both pitches can be combined (20 draws)

1. 28m (27) 10D

2. Project