Routes in Mt Everest Guest Farm

1. 40m (18) 13D. This pitch ends on a large ledge below the overhanging Red Wall. One-bolt belay.

2. 25m (20) 15D. Climb back and clip the last bolt of the previous pitch and continue up.

3. 25m (11) 6D. This pitch takes you to the top.

Abseil back down the route. From the anchors at the top of pitch 2, abseil over the edge and onto the ledge below the Red Wall. The final abseil bolts are located on the clean rock face adjacent to the extreme right-hand side of the ledge. After the final abseil scramble down an easy gully to reach the base of the crag. Tie a knot in the end of your rope - this pitch is almost 35m long.

Left-hand side line of bolt on the overhanging red wall slanting to the right, midway up the face. Stick clip recommended. Rebolted by Andrew Pedley in 2012.

This is actually quite a moderate route and is over-graded in comparison to other routes in the area (and country, in general). The fourth pitch, currently graded 15, is probably 9 and no other pitch harder than 16/17.

Note that the route is laid out in a manner entirely different to other routes in the area - some pitches are in excess of 50m long and require as many as 20 quickdraws. A 60m rope is necessary.

It is possible to avoid the final pitch by walking off towards the left. Descend by hiking around the back of the mountain and down the gully between Eagle Crag and Eagle's Head.

Be aware that there are chains in the vicinity of the top of the route that appear to be abseil chains, however, it is unclear whether it is possible to abseil the route and at least one party has been rescued after becoming stranded on a ledge.

1. 25m (19) 10D

2. Project

Both pitches can be combined (20 draws)

1. 28m (27) 10D

2. Project

Line of bolts left of Eggstacy.

Start near the middle of the east face. Climb straight up to a prominent flake or horn. Pass it on the left and then head right for the chains at the top of the next route.

Start off a small boulder at the right-hand side of the face. Climb up through the big scoop above.

Climb the overhanging jagged arête on the left of the flat, overhanging, orange face on the NW side of the boulder.

Climb the line of bolts near the centre of the overhanging face. Some of the holds near the top have broken off and the route may now be significantly more difficult.

Climb the line of bolts towards the right-hand side of the overhanging face.

Start just to the right of the slight corner at the right-hand edge of the overhanging face and climb straight up. Two hard moves off the ground lead to easier climbing. Note: The anchors are badly located over the top of the climb and cause severe rope-wear when lowering. To avoid this, use long slings on the anchors when top-roping and then arrange the rope so that the last climber can abseil off.

Start just to the right of the previous route. Step up off the block and climb the steep face by starting up the stem of the Y-shaped crack line. Move up the left-hand crack line at the fork and continue up to the chains. This line uses the anchors at the top of the previous route - see note above.

Start to the right of the previous route and climb up just left of a sort of rounded arête.

Start just right of the previous route and grovel up the rounded arête.

Make a tricky start from the flat rock at the base of the arête on the left-hand side of the pillar. Climb the arête to anchors on the 'head'. Keep mainly to the right-hand side of the arête but do not use the holds on 'Siesta'.

Climb the line immediately to the right of 'Bonni's Head'. This line shares the anchors with the previous route.

To the right of 'Siesta' there is a deep, wide crack in the boulder. Layback up the right-hand side of the crack as far as possible, step out to the right and then continue straight up to the anchors which are shared with the next route.

This route takes the line of bolts to the right of the previous route. Start just to the right of the line of bolts and move up diagonally left, then continue straight up the bolt-line to the anchors - tricky.

This is the last line of bolts on this side of the boulder. The line is tricky and reachy. Finding the big 'invisible' pocket makes life easier but is not essential.

Walk around to the face on the opposite side to the previous climbs. Climb the horns and jugs on the arête slightly to the right of the bolts (Baby Bear - 8), or climb straight up the line of bolts (Pappa Bear - 10), or climb the arête to the left of the bolts (Momma Bear - 9).

Climb the short, neat, wrinkly face between the 'Three Bears' and 'Hot Porridge'.

Climb straight up the prominent scoop to the chains.

From the bottom of 'Hot Porridge', traverse across to the short arête on the right and then climb this to the top.

Incomplete line on the north ("car park") side of the boulder.

There are no chains.

This is the left-hand route on the south face. Start directly below the first bolt. Pull up through a bulge onto a ledge. Using the rock on the left reduces the grade significantly.

Start from the rock just left of the arête on the right-hand side of the south face. Climb up left of the arête to reach the ledge then move up left to the anchors on 'Dry Ice'. The start is fingery and off balance. It is difficult to recover your draws.

Start up 'Slightly Chilled' to the first bolt, then move to the right, around the arête and onto the east face. Continue up just to the right of the arête to reach the anchors.

Climb the line of bolts up the middle of the downhill face.

Start towards the left-hand side of the north face, about 2m to the left of the central black streak . Climb up diagonally left towards the arête. After the second bolt, either pull through rightwards immediately, or go up left to clip the next bolt before going through the small bulge. Continue to the top. Apparently the climbing is much easier if you traverse out to the arête and climb this, however, you will then find it hard to clip the bolts.

Climb the line of bolts up the black water streak. The bolts are quite widely spaced.

Climb up just to the right of the black water streak. Tend slightly right towards the top. Climb the higher crux by laying away to the right. Apparently some of the holds have broken off near the top of 'Tundra' and 'Polar Crossing' making these routes more tricky than expected.

Start towards the right-hand side of the north face. Pull up awkwardly onto the rock then move diagonally right to the arête. Continue up, on or next to the arête. There is a thin move near the top but going left up the diagonal break is just as tricky.

Start just to the right of the arête. After a tricky starting move, climb straight up on 'dinner plates'.

Start just to the right of 'Chill Out'. The start is tricky and the next few moves are also quite thin but the climbing eases off higher up. Be careful clipping the second bolt