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Routes in Old Baldy (iSithumba)

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Showing all 6 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 Snake Bite
1 A1
2 18
3 13

FA: Charl Brummer & Jimmy Frew, 1982

Sport 200m, 11
18 Frail Illusion
1 12
2 18
3 18
4 14
5 12

Start at the large flake leaning against the face about 40m beyond Snake Bite. The first bolt is at the top of the flake, some medium sized trad gear can protect the first 10m (the climbing is very easy, though).

Do not stop at the first set of chains on the first pitch - these are for abseiling off, continue to another set about 10m to the right.

FA: Charl Brummer, Jimmy Frew, Steve Cooke & Dave Freer, 1980

Sport 200m, 5
16 Quiet Desperation
1 12
2 8
3 16

FA: John Poppelton, Barrry Anderson & others, 1952

FA: Mike Roberts, Steve Cooke, Brian Shuttleworth & Alan Manson, 1977

Sport 200m, 6
13 Cripple Creek

There is no hard and fast rule about where this route goes as long as you stay in the left-hand crack. The right-hand crack has been climbed at about the same grade but is unnamed.

FA: A large contingent of the MCSA-KZN Section, 1977

Sport 150m
19 The Lebowski Line
1 19
2 14
3 15

P1: the crux of the route, it requires good balance and precise footwork to dance between crystals, crimps and thin footholds. It's more of a face-climb than of a slab. Delicate, hard to read and exilarating (19/6a+). Note: the third bolt is slightly too far to the right. It currently makes for an awkward clipping for short climbers but it is not unsafe.

P2: climb the slab diagonally. This pitch leans right towards a comfortable stance (14/4c).

P3: follow the finger-crack until it runs out, then move right and climb over two bulges to gain the chains (15/5a).

SCRAMBLE: easy scramble to the top. There is only one bolt to protect the first move, then it's basically just a walk to the chains (next to a tree).

The Lebowski Line is the first sport route to be opened on Old Baldy's upper dome, which looks like it might offer a few other good lines with hard starts. Linking one of the routes on the lower dome with The Lebowski Line would make for a groovy day out.

Set: Chris Kleynhans & Marco Plebani, 11 Sep 2020

FA: Marco Plebani & Chris Kleynhans, 11 Sep 2020

Sport 100m, 3
Tight Fight

This overhanging crack cuts the giant boulder that can be seen on the far left of the top of the Lebowski Line (facing the mountain). It requires abundant tape for your hands as well as cams up to size BD 5. Short but gnarly.

Set: Marco Plebani & Chris Kleynhans, 2020

Trad

Showing all 6 routes.

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