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Painted Desert Area

  • Grade context: SA

Description

The next 3 routes up to 'Post Modern' are all in the same (Big Mamma) open book. This is located about 120 m beyond 'Verooka Palooka' and immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree Amphitheatre' - see below. There is plenty of potential for new routes in the 50 odd metres between 'Was It That Long Ago?' and 'Green Streaked Nose'.

Access issues inherited from Old Shongweni

These crags are on private property. It is essential to obtain prior permission from the landowner before climbing. Failure to do so will result in prosecution.

They are accessed through Craig Dixon’s property who is very welcoming at anytime. Call him before arriving or on arrival and he will let you in. (031 769 1095/082 729 2770).

Using Google Maps, look up Mr551 Road. It is property B7, a few hundred meters down from The Shongweni farmers Craft Market.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Climb up the centre of the face to the left of 'Big Mamma' and pull through the middle of the roof. Finish anywhere up the face above. A great move through the roof.

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Simon Joubert, 1989

Start in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof at 5m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to the right near the top to avoid a loose block.

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 1993

Set: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 1993

Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break.

(People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Simon Joubert, 1989

Start under a small roof formed by a block about 3m up and about 4m to the left of 'Cool Jewelled Moon'. Climb left past the roof and then up the orange and black face above.

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, Ron Uken & Simon Joubert, 1989

Start at a perfect, rectangular, undercling pocket about 5m to the left of the 'Dixie' corner. Crank up past a very old peg to a roof. Pull through the centre of the roof and continue up the face above.

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1989

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Miles Holman, 1993

FA: Grant Cockburn & Simon Joubert, 1989

FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1989

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham, 1993

FA: Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1992

FA: Ian Manson & Gerald Camp, 1988

FA: Bruce Tomalin & Barry Tomalin, 2007

Set: Bruce Tomalin & Barry Tomalin, 2007

FA: Gavin Peckham, Anthony van Tonder & Rodney Owen, 2001

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

FA: Steve Salmon, 1988

FA: Steve Salmon, 1988

FA: Evan Wiercx, 1989

Set: Roger Nattrass

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

FA: Mike Roberts, 1979

FA: Miles Holman & Gavin Raubenheimer, 1993

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Fri 26 May
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