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Splinter Area Rock climbing 10 routes in sector

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 21
10
SA
8101315171921232527

Seasonality

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Description

Around to the right of Belly button slab are rocks that look like Jelly Beans.

Access issues inherited from Paarl Rock

The Paarl Rocks are about 60 km north of Cape Town. From Cape Town drive north along the N1, and turn off at Paarl. Look carefully for the sign to the Paarl Rocks Mountain Reserve (it is easy to miss).

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Routes

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1
8 ★ Fade Trad

Easy scramble to the top of Gordon's Rock.

Enter the large cave and climb up the back to a skyline opening, taking the line of least resistance. Continue to the top via some boulders on the left and then carved steps.

FA: Gabriel Athiros & James Marchant, 1969

2
26 A0 ★★ Ruby In The Dust Sport 20m, 9

Start in the black crack/offwidth. An aid bolt enables one to reach a good hold and the bottom of the seam. Climb free to the top. Old bolts.

FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1990

3
21 ★ Crack-a-Jack Trad 15m

Starts as for Ruby in the Dust and then continues up the offwidth

FA: Chris Jackson, 1988

4
28 The Evidence of Things Not Seen Sport

A chipped route that was ironically chipped by Guy Holwill.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

5
24 ★ The Inspector Sport 17m, 5

Old bolts

FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1989

6
23 ★★ Bolts are for Babies Sport 15m, 6

Double rings at the top.

FFA: Ed February & T. Versfeld, 1987

Maint: Stewart Noy & Scott Noy, 2004

7
22 ★★ Bouncing Babies Sport 15m

Sandbag 22

FFA: Jeremy Colenso, Ed February, Andy de Klerk & T. Versfeld, 1987

Maint: Stewart Noy, 2014

8
22 ★★★ Umkhonto we Sizwe Mixed trad 15m, 3

Climb the left-hand side of the flake past 3 bolts, finishing up the crack.

Maint: Tony Lourens

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1985

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9
19 ★★★ Splinter of the Mind's Eye Mixed trad 15m, 2

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

Maint: Tony Lourens

FA: Chris Jackson & Andy de Klerk, 1985

10
20 ★ Pedestrian Crossing Sport 15m, 4

Old bolts!

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Adam Roff, 1989

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19 ★★★ Splinter of the Mind's Eye
22 ★★★ Umkhonto we Sizwe

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Sat 29 Apr
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