Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Start on the tea ledge on the right of the Gendarme. Starting on the left of the ledge, climb up the left side of the short, undercut section to a break. Follow the vertical crack to the wide rail below the roof. Conjure up some horizontal magic to negotiate the weakness through the roof to the good holds on the lip. Pull through and then left under the next bulge to a vertical break. Easily to the top. Consensus grading needed.

FA by Jarryd New

Grade opinions vary from 6a+ to 6c+. Exposed.

Sit down start with hands on hold low down on the corner. Move slightly diagonally left and top out up the arete.

Sit start and climb up arete.

Sit down start up on arete to top out.

Sit start, climb up on sharp grips to top. This is about 2m left of CLEEROY.

Climbs up the low arête from a sit start. Start low on a big flat ledge & smaller crimp slightly higher for the right and top out.

Left sidepull & right on a big edge, up as for MAD COW.

Start sitting 1m left of the small scoop on some slopers for the left & right. Climb up the layback to the left.

Sit down start with right hand in a shallow pocket and left on a sidepull up to a sloper on the right. Top out.

Traverse under the first bolt to start. Interesting and sustained sequences on pockets to reach the finish crack.

Techy cruxes, big moves and pumpy . Most satisfying! Past two bolts to funky right traverse. Advised to unclip first bolt after clipping second, and unclip second after clipping third.

Powerful steep crack after the headwall; climbs interestingly and a great mix of tricks required

After a bouldery start, head up and right. Once in the big roof, you will climb the Cape Fear flake (on its left hand side) to pull through at the obvious break at the lip. A few more moves leads to the anchor. A very fine route.

A harder, more direct first pitch to Black Widow.

Start as for Black Widow. After the dark grey face, instead of moving left all the way to the right side of the vague arête, head straight up (via a long throw out left to a large flat hold) and then up to gain an intermittent finger crack. This is about 1.5m right of where Black Widow goes. Climb the tricky crack and straight up to the ledge. Move left to stance. Consensus grading required.

Climbs the center of the wall to the left of 'Picture Book' (about 80m left of 'Fallen Angel'). Scramble up to the base of the wall next to a tree.

1. 35m 26/27 Climb straight up the slab past a peg and 2 bolts to where it eases. Move up and left and climb the steep crack with a tricky move onto the arête. Scramble up 10m to a ledge and rap point.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the compression arete.

Sit-start with flake and climb up the face.

Sitstart with BH on undercling. Move up to grips on the lip, LH up to Anesthesia's slopey edge and TO.

Stand start up to good grips.

Stand start with left in the undercling heuco and right in edge in heuco. Up and slightly to the left, dyno up to a pocket. A good mat and spotter for this one are essential!

Starts with right in a pocket, make a long move to a higher pocket and finish on good grips.

Start as with Slippery When Dry but dont move up, traverse to the righthand arete and finish as for Footsy.

Straight up the middle of the face, starts in a bowl.

Start as for ART, exit right, horn on the right is off limits.

Start on edge for left and layback for right low down on middle of face, up left to edge and right to slopers, top out. Big protruding rock on left is off route.

Standing Start, left & right hands on a large layback, top out via a huge pig's nose, slightly to left.

Sit start, left hand on low crimp in scoop and right higher on sloping crimp use for left hand on Piss. Move up to slopers and leftish to top out.

Sit down start as for BEEF SAUSAGE, traverse right and finish as for MAD COWS staying low.

Start as for Worlds Apart, but move right and follow the line of bolts to the anchor.

Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.

Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.

Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.

A physically and mentally demanding voyage…

Start on Dingiswayo but continue up the big corner and then fight through the slick, undercut open book (take care with cams as the rock is hard and slippery). At the roof rail left to where the finger crack continues up to the final roof. At this point, there is a very narrow horizontal slot for micro cams that are strenuous and fiddly to place. Embrace the run out and traverse left across the tricky face for ±3m to a good foothold and horizontal seam for micro nuts – these features are at a point below a good undercling in the final roof. Head up to the roof, and at the undercling and pull back right through the roof on great holds. Notes: Double ropes recommended. Consensus grading needed – cruxes are about grade 24, but the overall experience is considerably harder.

Start on the left and finish out right.

Start in the black crack/offwidth. An aid bolt enables one to reach a good hold and the bottom of the seam. Climb free to the top. Old bolts.

Previously known as Tears for Fears

Brenda Marx

• 40m 18: Climb easily up gray slabby steps for about 15m to below the square roof. Skirt the roof on it's left, then tend slightly left up the corners (crux) to a small overlap. Balance through the overlap on to easier ground. Move up and right to squeeze between a large bush (on your left) and a small overhang (on your right). Continue easily to a large ledge.
• 20m 26 (consensus needed): Follow the corner crack to the large roof. Traverse left, then boulder through the roof to a massive jug on the lip. Pull strenuously up the vertical holds to establish on the face. Move up and right for 2m, then left to semi hanging stance on small grassy patch.
• 20m 17: Climb diagonally up and right, then follow a vague arête onto a few meters of slab. A few meters of steeper ground, then another slabby section takes you to a small grassy ledge that gets much wider to the right.

Rap at tat. Or walk right and scramble (roped) up the grassy ledges passed a tree (tat) to the top.

Beautiful arete that gets progressively harder.

Supplement the route with trad gear.

A harder variation to Wolfgang.

1. As for Wolfgang

2. Traverse 8m right, then up a crack on the orange rock. Then up the grey face

3. As for Wolfgang pitch 6

4. As for Wolfgang pitch 7

Climb the aesthetic line between Time Stone and Woodro. Start up a small recess and step right. Use small layback edges to reach a thin rail where you move about 1m right and climb straight up where the orange rock on the left meets the grey rock on the right. A tiny cam (black alien or equivalent) is useful to protect the lower crux, while a large wingspan is handy - for the top crux in particular.

Amandla! Great stuff. Start about 20m right of Big Groove P1, on some boulders below an obvious V in the roof above.

1. 15 m (26) The Bugger pitch. Climb the left tending crack to a triangular platform. Move up to the roof and fight your way through the V-shaped break. Climb a few meters further to the blocky ledge and stance several meters left below the two cracks about 1.5m apart.

2. 35 m (25) The Super pitch. Climb the two left tending cracks on each side of a rib to a small roof. Crank through the bulge on the left side of the roof (crux) and up, to gain a narrow ledge with a half-moon shaped feature in the middle. More tricky moves on the short face to the left of the half-moon lead you to a large layback flake and crack system above. Stance in a corner below a triangular roof.

3. 15m (18) The Victory lap. Traverse right and slightly up to the huge flake feature on the right of the wall. Climb up this and the interesting shapes above until you can traverse right below a large rectangular block. Move up and left to exit via a chimney to the top. Note: Two micro cams (black alien or equivalent) are useful. One to protect each of the crux sections on pitch 2. If you are not up to the challenge of pitch 1 or don't what to be completely exhausted for the rest of the route, you can access the excellent second pitch from Big Groove.

Another superb single pitch. Steep and intimidating with excellent moves and just enough gear.

From the path, start up the right of the conical pillar. After a few meters, make hard moves right onto the fin. Continue up the steep prow, to a horizontal line of pockets. Move 1m left then up and right to a small platform. Continue straight up the face and recess to the ledge with an abseil point. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

This superb single pitch follows a steep, straight line directly below the abseil point on The Optimist (which is from a large split block 25m up on a ledge). Would be 5 stars if it weren't for the rest ledge.

Scramble up to the top of a conical pillar. Pull up to underclings in the roof above the short, smooth face. Make hard moves right and around the roof onto a wedged block. Pull up and left to good pockets below a curved finger crack through a bulge. Once over the bulge, climb dead straight to the abseil point. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

A 3 pitch route through the steepness between 'Nambarrie' and 'Snake in the Grass' Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Starts by climbing the first pitch of 'Snake In The Grass' and then heads left for two pitches to a ledge on which one can traverse left a few meters to where 'Nambarrie' comes up in a corner. From here one can do a single abseil back to the ground.

1. [20] 15m

   As for Snake in the Grass: up to the rail and traverse left on the wide broken rail. Continue left to hanging stance where the wide rail runs out.

2. [26] 15m

   Straight up on edges to a rail and into a steep right-facing flare that turns into a crack. Continue straight to a roof, which is passed on the left side via some face moves to another wide rail. Crank through here to a rail and make a long move left to a side pull. Strenuously up to a break and a hanging stance on the right.

3. [25] 20m

   Pull through the roof and corner to the left into a short left facing recess. Pull up to the next hand rail. Traverse left with increasing difficulty to the left end of the finger rail and pull up into the base of a vague right-facing recess. Continue up the recess, with a committing section (small wires) to a triangular feature below a roof (treat with care). Pull left and up to a wide ledge.

Descent: Locate a rap point about 5m left of where you come up above the corner on 'Nambarrie'. One ~50m free abseil to ground.

The route breaks through the big roof between Grappler and 'Tafelberg Frontal' with steep and spectacular climbing. Starts ±30m left of 'Tafelberg Frontal', just left of a big roof and under a hook-shaped feature at the base of a layback crack. Some extra medium size cams are useful on pitch 2.

1. 20 m (23) Head up ±5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ±2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double-layer roof above.

2. 25 m (26) The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ±7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ±2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right-hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams).

3. 25 m (16) Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.

4. 30 m (21) Start just right of 'Sorcerer'. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right-facing corner. At the top step left onto the grey face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with Sorcerer).

5. 35 m (20) Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with 'Jedi Fish' P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ±15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.

A steep, demanding route crossing 'Mothers'. The top pitch offers superb climbing in a wild position.

1. [18] 45m

   Start 5m left of 'Cosy Corner'. Climb up to a large post box slot a few meters up. Move slightly up and right to another large horizontal slot. From here move diagonally up and left to a ledge below a brown face. Head straight up this face to a ledge.

2. [25] 30m

   Climb the bulging face to a ledge below and right of a big roof. Step left and make some hard moves to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left until able to pull past the left side of the roof. Head straight up following large layback features to a wide ledge.

3. [26] 25m

   Start up a break about 5m left of a large left tending layback crack system. Climb straight up the break to the roof. Rail about 2m right until able to make some strenuous pulls through the roof (about 1m left of the narrowest point) into the corner above. Move up and right to below the final roof. Pull up and left using layback holds to establish on the face above. Continue straight up to the top.

26/7b

Bouldery line up green lichen streak.

Starts on a boulder.

1. 10 Bolts

2. Open Project

Bouldery sequence through the overhang.

Start on a rock stack. Crimpy technical face climb.

Excellent continuous crux requiring power and crimp with good foot placement choices

Fun face climb with a cool end move.

On the left wall as you walk up the valley. Boulder pads used for the start.

Permadraws at the top. There are 7 bolts - where there are two bolts near each other, perhaps only clip the bottom more safer one.