17 15m Climb the layback, move right just under tree and up to stance in large round cubby hole. Belay IN cubby hole.
12 Move up and rightwards on easy rock and through huge natural holes. Keep moving right till you see some other glued-in bolts and some chains belonging to SKINNY LEGS AND ALL. Go up and into a stance in a cubby.
17, AO(23?) This climbs left from the stance in a zigzag manner till eventually traversing left into a smooth, shallow recess which is the crux. Pull on draws if needed, A0. Up to stance in perfect cubby hole. (Note: The last abseil is from these chains)
16 about 40m? Follow bolts up the huge face to chains(shares chains with SKINNY LEGS). Scramble up onto grassy ledge moving left about 10m.
15 Up recess to stance on big ledge.
15 Up recess to stance under roof.
7 Walk right along ledge for 15m to corner past one bolt. A0 Aid for 3m and scramble to the summit.
Descent
Take 2 ropes to abseil off this route.
Abseil from summit chains to big grass ledge is about 50m.
Abseil from top of pitch 4 to top pitch 3 is about 48m.
The top of pitch 3 to ground is about 48m.
It is possible with 50m ropes to abseil from the top to the top of pitch 4, to top of pitch 3 and then to the ground - but this will take you (and your ropes) through a thick patch of prickly pears, and should be avoided.
Several parties have not been able to pull their ropes after the first abseil (despite the chains being perfectly adequate). Ensure the rope is threaded through the chains in a manner which minimises friction and do a pull test - BEFORE the last climber comes down.
FA:Gavin Raubenheimer, Cally Henderson & Cesar de Caravalho, 2004
