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The Other Side Mostly Sport climbing 16 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 49
16
SA
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Seasonality

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Description

A good crag to escape to if the masses have invaded 'Flying is Fun'.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including Mountain Club of South Africa , Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual R1600. Annual for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1 200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers.

Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

Approach as per 'Flying is Fun'. 100m before the cliff top, large cairns are obvious on the right of the path. Follow a faint trail leading diagonally down right for 60m, into a shallow tree-filled easy gully. Go down a bit then keep left until you arrive at the obvious huge dark detached pillar where 'Yuduvudu' is located.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 ★ Spooks in the Closet Sport 7

Goes up the orange-grey slab 5m left of the detached pillar.

FA: Antoinette Lessing, 1994

2
13 Uriel's Machine Sport 9

The gap between the obvious detached pillar and the main wall is a wide chimney. Two thirds up the chimney is a large chockstone. Layback up a zig-zag crack directly beneath the chockstone. Variation: Climb the route as a chimney - somewhat easier.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

3
12 ★ Toilet Brush Sport 8

Two meters to the right of 'Uriel's Machine'. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up. Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both 'Uriel's Machine' and 'Toilet Brush' and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

4
25 ★★★ Yuduvudu Sport 8

Near the base of the descent gulley on the right is an obvious detached pillar. This route takes the leaning dark face.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1994

5
14 ★ Weigh-Less Crack Sport 7

On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack; if you are thin enough climb it!

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

6
17 ★★ Frequent Flyer Sport 9

6m right of 'Weigh-Less Crack' is a line going through a bulge in the face. The crux is getting past the bulge.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

7
14 ★★ Voyager Sport 11

3m right of 'Frequent Flyer' on the same face.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

8
17 ★ Blokkies Joubert Sport 10

Around the corner is an appealing blunt blocky buttress has a series of blocky ledges.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

9
16 ★ Tea For Two Sport 7

A face to the right and around the corner from 'Blokkies Joubert'. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical cracks.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

10
15 ★ 2nd Anniversary Sport 7

2m right of 'Tea For Two' starting just to the left of the flaring chimney.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

11
15 ★ I drink therefore I am Sport 8

Start as for '2nd Anniversary' but move onto the steep column to the right, finishing just left of the overhang.

FA: Stephanie Mallory, 2003

12
17 ★★ Nearly Headless Nick Sport 10

8m right of the above is a steep east- facing yellow-grey slab. The climb starts off a big block.

FA: Cara Fleischer, 2004

13
14 ★ Curse of the Armadillo Trad

A few metres right of 'Nearly Headless Nick'. Climb the cracks up the slab and exit left.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

14
22 ★ Of Herbs and Stewed Rabbit Trad

Up the right arête of the flaky red wall, starting in a large crack left of the arête.. It needs a lot of gear, has some hollow rock and is included in this guide mainly because of the name!

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

15
27 ★★ Mixer Mincer Shredder Liquidizer Sport 8

The bolt line up a prominent steep slab a few metres right of the aforementioned bowl. Starts off a big ledge. May your fingers have thick skin!

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

16
20 ★ Short Cut to Mushrooms Trad

Climb the crack right of 'Mixer Mincer Shredder Liquidizer'.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

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14 ★★ Voyager
17 ★★ Frequent Flyer

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