Routes in Waterval Boven for selected grade

Starts at yellow wood tree, left of 'Changeling'. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains.

The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. Not particularly well bolted to be careful placing draws if it’s at your limit. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

The obvious large crack/layback. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing.

Technical balancy short boulder problem that might keep you busy for longer than you bargained for. Can be done with 2 draws, extra 2 bolts are for working problem, midgets and kids. Carabiners at chains for quick escape. Easy after decyfering the sequence, impossible till then.

Arête on the right side of the obvious pillar. A technical fun fest. Bolts donated by MCSA.

Pull through the buldge to get to the finger licking goodness.

The sweet fun route on the left arete of the "mini godno".Bolts kindly sponsored by the MCSA

This line is a visual replica of the Blade Runner line in Mayhem. It's roughly 50m left(closer to deck) from the Mini Godno and directly left of 'Evan and Goliath'. Bouldery crimpy start traversing right into juggy, balancy crack and arête climbing.

1.5m right of the short crack of 'Daniel' (and 1m left of a big tree) climb the slab to the overlap, passing another short crack. Some very thin moves past 2 close bolts gain the upper slab, which eases off at another crack.

At the cave, pull the hanging arête on the right into the thin crack which widens to hand size.

[Anchors] The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors. Opened on trad

As for 'Kajboy' to 5th bolt. Continue up straight or slightly right, via a 2cm foothold and Rright slanting crimp to a hard finish. Will be harder still for shorter climbers.

Starts 8 m left of the 'Good and Evil' arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb.

The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arête.

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains.

Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22.

Surprisingly pleasant face left of the 'Grizzle Behr' crack. Was opened at 22.

Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Starts about 5m right of 'Dreamers' and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale.

Fear of open spaces! Shares first 3 clips with 'Gem Squash' then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner.

Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of 'Jenga'. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks.

Trad line just right of 'The Loan Arranger'.

Start in the corner up to a loose looking block.

Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs, through an overhang.

Start on 'Bongoleo', break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of 'Wicked'.

Starts 10m right of 'Dutch Popcorn' around the corner and 10m left of 'Snakeskin Safari Suit'. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree.

Goes up and to the left of the arête.

The hidden line 4m right of Fat Annie'. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt.

This climb starts about 10m to the right of 'Witless' and goes up the south east facing wall. Up to a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.

Climb the corner right of 'Wood Pile Crack'. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt.

A face climb staying right of the bolts.

The obvious bolted diagonal line provides some cool sequences.

Start steep under the overhang left of 'Miss Mckinley'.

30m of 'Lotter's Desire'. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

The route starts just to the left of 'Glen' and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!

Climb 'Glen' for 8 draws onto the ledge, then blast straight up!

Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height.

The obvious crack line on the left of 'The Theatre', just right of 'Sweet Cousin Cocaine'.

Just to the right of the major dihedral in 'The Theatre', a few meters left of 'Heart of China'. Opened on trad. Sparse gear.

CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at 'The Restaurant'.

Climbs the corner to the left of 'Damn the Torpedoes'. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top.

The left route.

Slab route at the water's edge. Take a toothbrush to clean after rain.

Short power face problem, the leftmost in The Gym.

The arête .

The line just to the right of 'Nine Inch Nails'.

Start up the 1st 4 bolts of 'Jambo', then somewhat right to chains. Don't relax too much on the headwall…

Climbs the "hidden" line just right of WORLDS APART

2m right of 'Achtung Baby'.

Belay at 'L'il Arete Number' first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right. Use 'L'il Arete Number' lower-offs.

Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face.

Just around the arête, up the undercut face. The name is scratched onto the rock.

Start in the corner 3m right of 'Billabong'. Great technical climbing, getting steadily trickier.

Starts 5m right of Clockwork Monkey at the same level.

Climb the left of the pillar, 25m beyond Castaway. Keep right of the third bolt. Fairly challenging at 23! About 19 if you stray too far to the left.

Up the middle of the pillar. No shortage of bolts.

Starts about 10m right of the pillar, on the main wall. Very lead out with only a single top anchor. A good route, anyone please add another top anchor.

The steep left-leaning arete opposite Guys Slab Climb past the last resting place of DAVE. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw.

A shocking-looking off-width, awesome when lay-backed. On the back of the pinnacle that hosts 'Fairy Fingers'.

On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard. Back to the middle (bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.

The right hand variation after the roof. Fingery.

Very height dependent. One move, one star!

Direct start is 23/24 - height dependent.

The steep face on the boulder behind 'Bridget Climbs Again' . (Sandbagged and opened at 18!)

An incredible position, beside the waterfall. This is the first line to the right when looking at the waterfall. Abseil to a bolted stance 20m down and climb back out. A 60m rope is needed to escape from the stance if you do get stuck.

The next crack right of 'Screaming Blue Messiah', about 4m right of the first corner. Quite runout but wonderful. Zap up to the chains. It is possible to access by rapping in from the tree on top.

Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section or break it into 2 pitches.

The similarly enjoyable but slightly harder journey just right of 'Endless Summer'. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

Technical face climbing with a thin crux. This climb is 30m+ long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope.

Share the first couple of bolts with 'Unterwegs Nach Haus', then out right. Ever so slightly run out!!

About 50m left of 'African Odyssey', are some big roofs halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and traverse left on the ledge until you are below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubbyhole onto the slab (crux needs friend # and follow the crack to the top.

On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is this one. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.

Climb the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of 'Coming of Pride', with the big German-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on 'Little Bitch'.

This route, the first on the crag, follows a line up the middle of the main face.

1. [17] 35m

   Start on the face 10m left of the obvious, shallow lunch cave. Climb up tending right into a recess till a large ledge below an overhanging face.

2. [23] 20m

   Start at back left corner of ledge. Climbs strenuous corner crack for 6m the traverse right for 3m on good holds and exposure. Fire straight up to a ledge from where one can belay and walk off.