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North Dome

15

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Approach

Uphill from the parking following a "faint path". Steeper the more you go left toward the gully and easier climbs. Flatter toward the more difficult area right.

Descent notes

To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, 2 rap points are available on the dome. The first at the back of the dome on the left hand side closest to Monkey Gulley. A short rap, 22m, will take you to a path where you can descend down Monkey Gulley on the right, to the base of the dome. This gulley has two short scramble sections of 3m each at approximately grade 14. The second left of Sexy Lady 's chain. A long rap of approx 62m will bring you at the foot of the scramble in Monkeys Gully. Use at least 1 70m rope and tie off the bottom knots ! Another alternative is to rap down Sexy Lady on two 50m raps or four 25m raps, this lands you neatly just downhill of the scrambles in Monkey Gulley.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at the foot of the first scramble up the gulley. Pitches 1+2 and 4+5 can be combined.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2003

1 17 25m
2 15 15m
3 16 25m
4 15 20m
5 13 20m

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

1 20 30m
2 21 30m
3 19 30m
4 16 40m

This route starts 25m to the left of Where Eagles Dare and joins that route at the last pitch.

FA: Neil Margetts & James Pitman, 2004

1 16 25m
2 18 20m
3 17 20m
4 19 25m
5 17 20m
6 14 25m

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête. Pitches 1+2 and 5+6 can be combined.

FA: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Gareth Frost & Tim Wilmot, 2000

1 17 25m
2 15 20m
3 16 25m
4 20 40m
5 21 45m

Start 10m to the right of Where Eagles Dare at a block. Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

FA: Neil Margetts, Gioacehims Emmola & Darryl Margetts, 2006

1 18 32m
2 21 35m
3 23 35m
4 23 40m

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND. Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND.

FA: Heike Schmitt & Neil Margetts, 2005

1 18 25m
2 17 25m
3 14 10m
4 18 20m
5 21 25m
6 23 20m
7 13 15m

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

FA: Heike Schmitt & Neil Margetts, 2005

1 19 43m
2 18 25m
3 21 25m
4 19 30m

Start as for Big Dreamers Never Die.

  1. Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

  2. Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

  3. Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

  4. Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

FA: Neil Margetts, James Pitman & Guy Pitman, 2003

1 21 30m
2 22 30m
3 25 25m
4 20 30m

Starts approximately 50m right of BDND.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Philippe Gabareaud, 2001

1 22 22m
2 23 40m
3 24 20m
4 25 45m

FA: Jens Rigter & Sabine Tittel, 2005

1 20
2 23
3 26
4 26
5 20

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

1 22 30m
2 24 40m
3 22 30m

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

FA: 2000

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it. Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoid the climb in winter months.

Climb up straight from Raptors, 2 pitches further

This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.

FA: Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

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Sat 29 Apr
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