Sit Down Start. Around the corner, to the left of 'P. L. Traverse', sit with both hands in the long horizontal crack. Each hand is on either side of the arête. Climb up the arête to top out.
Start high BH on the big sidepull where the tree use to be, move left onto the slab and TO in the centre of the slab. The arete and the jugs just to the left of the arete are out.
Start left on the face with the arrow on it. Sit/crouch start on black horizontal rail. Move up to the central top end of the boulder without using the arete.
Climbs the face to the right of 'The Reckoning'. Start easily up to a layback flake system and then take a central line up the face with a short, wide vertical crack just before the top.
Start just directly below the left side of the cap on good foot edges. Balance to reach the cap/ flake, then use the hole/ side pull on the flake to topout.
With good rope management the second and third pitch can be linked in a very fun single pitch. These are the two best pitches of this route! It starts around 4 meters to the left of the start of Friar Tuck or around 14 meters left of the big chimney that makes the start of Robin Hood.
Climb all the way up to a roof to the left of a bulging rock that marks the start of the second pitch.
Climb around the bulging rock (exposed) and up a bottomless recess to a ledge to the left.
Climb diagonally up to a roof and take the easiest option through the V shape roof. Pull up and climb the recess to a ledge.
Step right around the corner and climb the strenous layback.
Start from the top of a block with a cairn made of two big rocks on the top of it. This route has plenty of gear but the rock is a bit hollow and demands attention all the way up. It is a good route though. Just be careful.
Pull up until reach a small roof. After a very short traverse left of the small roof, pull through and climb up to a crack. Climb the crack towards an open book. Pull through the open book and when it gets very liqueneous climb the juggy face on the left. Belay from there. One can walk off to the left here. Another pitch is possible in the sequence but most people walk off here.
FA:M. Mcleod, N. Reay, D. Steyn & P. Sherlock, 1991
Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m from a large triangular boulder, and 6m left of Barrier Sandwich.
Climb the brown face 4m, then traverse 2m left and up to a roomy, cave-like stance, on poor rock. Traverse right 3m then climb the recess above, moving right to stance at the top.
Climb the bushy fault and step right to a bushed up ledge. Climb a series of large steps, which leads to and obvious traverse left for 5m, ending on a broad ledge.
A pinnacle - from which the route gets its name - may be seen in profile about 15m right. Climb up behind the pinnacle and emerge on its right, before continuing up a vertical fault above for 15m. Move out left to a good ledge some 7m above.
Climb diagonally up to the right to the foot of a vertical fault and lay-back to a stance. Continue up excellent holds to the top.
FA:R. Burton, J. Davies, P. O'Neil, L. Schaff & O. Shipley, 1947
Start: about 12m left of Barrier Frontal, up a left facing corner capped by a roof.
Climb the recess for about 5m, then traverse across the vertical wall to the corner. Pull through an overlap, to beneath the next roof, and move left and up a recess on a higher ledge (awkward). Continue up the recess to the ceiling, then traverse right around the corner to a small ledge and move up to a bigger ledge. Climb the face above the left-hand edge of the ledge, then traverse 2m left into a shallow recess (with a bush) to another ledge.
Traverse to the right along a narrow, bushy ledge until you reach a stance at the top of the first pitch of Barrier Frontal.
From the blocks, climb on the good holds past some steep flake moves to reach a stance in a deep fissure. Climb the fissure for about 1m then traverse out right 3m to the obvious break. Using a yellow sandy-looking projection move up to the right for 2m, then swing up to the square stance to the right of the overhang.
Traverse right, along a reddish ledge for 5m until a flake lying flush with the face is reached. Use the flake to swing up and continue climbing to the stance, bypassing the small overhang on the right. Climb the obvious recess (shared with Barrier Frontal) and exit to the right to reach a ledge with two fixed pitons and horseshoe on Barrier Frontal.
Climb up for 3m, then move diagonally left to the hanging recess and up this to the top.
From the block, head straight up the slab to the ledge (sandy in places, but avoidable). Pull up to a high, wide rail and traverse right until able to gain the orange face. Continue up and left to the top (in situ rap point).
To the right of the slab is some scrappy rock. Start right of this and up to narrow overlap. Pull through on the right then move back left and up to easier terrain. Continue heading left, following a vague, steep recess until able to exit right at the top.
Good climbing, pity about the loose block and bushy mantle at the end...
Start: up the wall at a point where a faint path leads through the bushes and out to the right side of the crag.
Head up and tend left under the broken rock and up to the midway ledge. Climb up below the black water-streak corner for 2m and then rail left 2m and up to the exit face will a series of horizontal rails. Beware a big loose block just right of the final face. The top out involves negotiating none non friendly climber's friend.
Nice climbing up to midway, then a walk and tricky finish.
Start: on the far right of the wall.
Climb up to where a short traverse right leads up to the ledge. Walk right a few meters and then climb diagonally back up and left to a tricky exit at the top.
"Very Steep. Unlikely that anyone will fall asleep on it"
Start: Left of the Hottentot Cherry Tree situated to the left of Valken Face.
Climb directly up the face until its possible to step right using a flake- and up to the stance above.
Move up onto a block on the left then climb the face above until a sloping stance below an overhang is reached.
Climb 1m left then continue diagonally left on the face (delicate) before ascending to a small ledge, then climb the face above to another ledge. Traverse 2m right and climb up a short face, past a tree for 3m. Traverse left to some blocks, then up the the face to reach the ravine above.
Avoid the overhang above by climbing up right then left until a recess is reached. Climb the face until its possible to move diagonally left to a stance.
Climb through the overhang above and continue up a 6m ridge right until traversing right underneath another overhang. Proceed to a stance above.
Climb onto a thin block that peters out to the right. Climb the face right of Valken Parapet for 9m. An overhanging face with large grips will be seen above. Climb this overhanging section, traverse 1-2m right, then proceed diagonally left to a stance. Walk up the ridge to the top sections. The next pitch is in the recess of a ridge, right of the start of Valken Crag.
7.A Number of short recesses will be found to the right of the ridge. After 8m of climbing one reaches the first ledge. 10m of recess takes one to the next ledge,. A recessed corner with a large tree next to it is ascended for 22m for a bushy stance.
Climb about 2m up a corner above the beacon, then traverse left to a recess with a number of flakes lying against it. Climb the recess to until it is possible to exit left. Traverse 6m left and break through to the right of an overhang. climb 8m up a recess to a large ledge.
A good route of moderate difficulty. Would be more popular but for the walk in the middle.
Start: the route starts on the extreme left corner of Barrier Cave, about 3m Right of Valken Face.
Climb a small overhang at the corner and up a difficult crack to the ledge above.
Start midway between Face and Barrier Ravine routes. Climb a straight face for 6m until a small overhang is reached. Step right then up another 4m to a ledge, continue up for 8m (this is the crux of the lower sections). An easy crack slightly left is ascended for 6m. Stance beneath the the left of two cracks.
Climb the left crack and continue up the widening crack above to below an open face.
Scramble the face directly above the slope below the upper buttress.
Walk up to the upper sections which start about 13m from the corner overlooking Barrier Ravine.
Ascend the easy face veering left to the ledge above, and then up a small exposed chimney to a higher ledge.
Stand on a small ledge about 2m above the stance to a rail which allows one to traverse left into a shallow recess. Climb this to below a minor overhang, then traverse out to the left for about 5m, then up diagonally right to climb a small chimney, out for which you traverse diagonally left onto a large stance.
Climb an easy chimney in a corner to the right, then up a short face to the next broad ledge.
Walk along the ledge 30m to an obvious corner which is climbed all the way to the top of the buttress.
Just around the corner of the right end of Barrier Cave, below a pocketed face.
Start in the right-hand corner underneath the overhang and climb to the stance.
Climb out 3m and then 7m to the dassie stance on the left.
Continue along the dassie crawl until it becomes too narrow, then descend 3m. Traverse on tiny holds to the corner and continue to a stance above a nose. Note: the direct variation (grade 16) starts by moving up and around to the right to a narrow ledge on the extreme right hand edge of the overhang containing the cave. Stretch up to a small grip and move up past a slab block into the corner. Traverse left to the stance on the nose.
Climb straight up for 15m, traverse 3m right then up onto a small block and continue to a stance to the right.
Climb straight from the right edge of the ledge onto the face and continue up over some packed boulders to a large stance on the right.
Ascend the staircase looking corner for 13m, at the top traverse onto the face then continue 5m to a small stance on the right.
climb the fault straight above to the top of the buttress.
Start: about 6m left of the tree at the start of Valken Face.
Pull through a black corner. climb up about a meter on the face and traverse left to a small corner. Pull up, then move right and up to the ledge above.
Scramble left over a boulder to a small black amphitheater to the left of the second pitch of Barrier Ravine. Climb unto a small cave under an overhang, using the block to the left swing around the block and move up to a stance.
Scramble up some minor rock-work and slog up Barrier Ravine to the upper sections. Where the slope abuts the main buttress, there is a large and apparent overhang. The Parapet Starts immediately to the left of the overhang, but Crag continues way over to the right where there is a square shaped overhang about 20m up. In a fault slightly to the right are the pitches which lead up to and turn this overhang. Scramble up about 6m to a large beacon.
Layback up the edge of some large clean-cut flakes, below an obvious fault to a stance about 6m up. Continue up a smooth, slightly overhanging right angled recess. Beneath the overhang at the top of the recess traverse left to a stance around the corner on top of the square overhang.
From a huge poised boulder on the left, climb a clean, mildly exposed face to a broad ledge.
The next stance is reached via an easy corner to the right.
A tricky start up a crack for 3m. Above this, traverse left and up to a ledge 3m wide. The ledge to the left tapers down to about 0.5m. Continue along for about 12m where the ledge broadens slightly before petering out on the face.
Climb 3m up a black projecting corner on the left face, to a narrow ledge. Traverse 5m left along this ledge where, by a wide step across onto a broken face a small stance 5m up and left is reached. {Sorry, the grammar here is horrendous, but this is a verbatim copied from the 1978 guide. Please climb it and better this!}
Climb a 6m crack above the stance and continue up easy rock to a broad ledge. It is possible to traverse off from here.
Start up a corner 7m right. After a hard start the route veers right to the final beacon.
Notes: one could link the first 4 pitches below into one pitch, then the top 2 pitches with 60m ropes, but don't try that with 50m ropes for the first 4 pitches.
Start: The route starts about 10m right of the South West corner of Valken Buttress, and to the right of a Hottentot Cherry Tree.
Move up a thin slit to a stance at the bottom of a fault which seems to cut off a pinnacle from the main buttress.
Continue up the fault exiting right to a small stance.
Move diagonally right, to a small, exposed but comfortable stance.
A delicate traverse right and then up leads to the bottom of a brown recess. Climb the recess for 5m to the overhang. Move right then up for 2m where it is possible to stop, (and partially rest the arms) on a small block, which also has a vertical loose flake on it. A short movement left and up follows. Stance 3m further on a higher at a Wild Olive Tree. Note: One is now on the broken ledge with the "D" route diagonally left. Directly above the tree is a shallow recess about 45m high with a ring of overhangs across the top.
Climb the recess until a ledge on the left is reached near the top.
Traverse 8m right, then climb straight up, finishing on an exposed ridge. (Valken Edge Finishes up the recess on the right). The top of this pitch is directly above the tree. Scramble from here to exit above.
Start: 12m right or Corner, and in the corner left of Valken Edge.
Climb towards the right edge of the "Skelter". The stance is around the corner. Looks rotten and flaky.
Up the corner to below a small, triangular ceiling. Swing left using a flake shaped a half moon cheese. and continue to traverse left on blocks until a break through can be made.
Continue up the face to a small stance beneath a ceiling.
Climb right around the corner to a shallow recess. climb a thin crack to a small block. continue to the left round a corner and climb over a bulge to a stance.
Hand traverse left to the edge, then up to the last stance.
A superb route spoiled by some bush on the top sections.
Started: about 30m right of the corner of the South and West walls is a grey face (facing West). At its base are two trees, and the rout starts between them.
Climb the grey face to a small platform.
Move left then up to the roof of a small orange overhang. Traverse right then continue for 25m up a vertical fault before moving right again over a loose blocks to a stance.
Traverse left 4m around a pinnacle, then up a 4m crack. Move left and up to a ledge. Continue traversing along the ledge until a stance is reached about where the ledge broadens considerably and continues around to the base of the bushy gully on the Valken D route.
Move up and right onto a large block then continue diagonally right (delicate). Continue up to a stance below a large overhang.
Move right beneath the overhang then up a tricky crack and continue up taking the line of least bush resistance to a broad ledge. Traversing right on this ledge brings you onto the South Face route which can be followed back to the base of the buttress.
Climb 5m of easy rock left of a nose. From a broad ledge climb a 4m flake diagonally left until the overhang is reached, then traverse 5m left to a block. Climb the recess 3m then traverse left to the top of the pitch.
This pitch runs up a grey face forming the right side of a corner. he face has a shallow recess on the upper section. Climb diagonally left 3m to a corner which has a tiny resting place, From there traverse right 3m along a small horizontal crack to the bottom of the small recess on the right. Climb the recess for 11m to a ledge. From the small ledge continue directly up for 8m to a stance on a broad ledge. Scramble up to a ledge beneath a band of overhangs. Traverse right to a tree and large detacthed block. (Kasteels Frontal beacon can be seen on the right).
From an awkward position on a large block under the overhang on the left below the nose: Reach for the lip left of the undercut overhang and pull up to a ledge on the left corner. Climb 2m up the recess, then a tricky move right to gain the crest of the nose. Continue up the crest for 3m for a small ledge. Kasteels Frontal traverse left along this ledge to the recess. Climb the face above. 5m of "D" grade scrambling leads to the bottom of the next pitch.
Climb a the ceiling capped recess next to a bush for 8m to the ceiling. Traverse left around the corner to a small ledge. Climb onto a small detached block about a meter long which projects from the face. Climb the bulging face before stepping right into a shallow, vertical recess which is ascended 12m to a ledge.
Climb up an overhanging crack immediately above for 3m, then traverse diagonally right for 6m onto a broad ledge. Continue traversing right to another broad ledge at the base of a recess.
Head up and right to the bottom of a flake which is followed diagonally left to a recess. take this recess to the summit.
Start: about 15m left of the Turret corner is a grey face with a break running up its centre. this line takes that break.
Start on the right edge of the crack and move up to a small cave. Traverse right over a slightly broken face the climb left to a mantelshelf and stance. I think this is below a small stepped overhang.
Above and right is a fine belay among some boulders on a ledge. From this ledge continue diagonally left to an obvious break (2 pitons).Continue to directly below the overhang, then up to a curious crack.
Continue straight up a crack.
Climb an easy overhang above and left to the ledge and move right to a good stance.
Either take the recess of an easier crack on the right.
"A One for the Road Climb. It had to be some someday."
Start: from the band-Stand there are two obvious cracks, this line takes the first one, which is on an orange recess capped by overhangs and left of black water worn rock. Yes, its that obvious line.
Ascend the recess to the first overhangs where you are forced right then up a slightly bulging, striped slab. Continue up the square recess above before a long diagonal left until a large ledge is taken.
Take a tall chimney at the back of the ledge, left of a flat face. The chimney degenerates to a short, tricky bushy gully at the top.
Pull through the lower roof then up the black streaks to the right of the beige rock in the middle. Tend a bit left near to top into a short, vague corner then straight up.
Start: From some blocks rising above the forest beneath the wall. Scramble up to the next ledge where a cairn will be found below a green lichen-covered face.
Climb the face 12m to a ledge beneath the overhang (the Boulevard). Traverse right to clear the overhang, then up 3m to a ledge.
Traverse right along the ledge, climb onto a nose then up to a large stance (it is possible to link P1 up to here). Climb the crack 12m, then move left and climb the face to a broad ledge.
Climb the left side of the ramp and exit to the right at the top into a cubbyhole. Traverse right as far as possible along the ledge, then climb up to the Halfway Ledge.
Directly above the last pitch, climb the recess 4m, hand swing right and climb up to a ledge beneath an overhang. Alternative: Step off a boulder onto the face and climb up to the ledge. Traverse left 10m into the base of a chimney. Layback up the crack on the left face until possible to chimney up to the Pulpit.
Step across the gap between the Pulpit and the left face. Move up 3m to a handrail. Swing left, then continue along the traverse to the skyline and up the corner to the top.
FA:C. Inglis, A. McCrindle, A. Schoon & R. Williams, 1960
Start: high up KP at the Pinnacle against the side of the cliffs. PW Starts on the right side of the pinnacle, just left of the Pinnacle route.
Step straight up onto the steep wall, then climb past a flake and up a bulge to get into a rounded off chimney. Last few moves at the top force one right over the drop.
From the ledge, step up into a recess, which is climbed to a ledge, then head up a monstrous angled block. Climb up and left an overhanging face above on good holds, to a long ledge 3m below the main ledge. Here one has two options: The official route uses a block on the ledge to gain height for the start. Move up to the dassie ledge stance. Option two: walk left and scramble up next to a pitch on "D" route, a traverse back to the right can be made on an open dassie ledge to reach a stance.
Climb the recess behind the stance to a long ledge. A blank barrier now runs below an overhang on the left, which ends to form a grassy crack. Using two horizontal cracks one can reach an ear on the right wall and get to some high edges. Lay - away to the ledge. The stance is in the corner next to a large loose flake with the beacon on it.
Follow the deidre/dihedral behind the stance to the overhang, then traverse left and up to the ledge.
Climb a chimney on the left for a few meters until a step left onto a weathered face is possible. Great climbing takes you to the top of the buttress.
Unfortunately overshadowed by Champs Elysees, this is none the less a good route.
Start: there is a starting beacon 10m up KP from the large tree near the north-Western Corner of the buttress.
Climb about 3m until a 7m traverse right can be made to a rock which juts out.
Traverse right into the corner which is descended 5m onto a broad ledge running out right.
Starting on the right end of the ledge traverse right for 6m, then diagonally right to stance at the top right corner of the face. One is now under a large overhang.
Take the corner behind the beacon until a handrail below the overhang is reached, then traverse left 5m and up to a small platform. Move left into a vert crack to a small stance.
Take the crack for 6m, move onto the face on the left when the crack closes in. There is a broad ledge jutting far out at the top of the pitch.
Move past the boulder on the right of the ledge, then descend 3m to a lichen covered ledge which ends 3m further. Step across the gap between the ledge and the face on the right, and swing around he bulging corner onto the face. Traverse right with feet on the lip of a huge overhang the is so prominent from the KP path for 4m, then move up 3m before a 6m traverse left to the base of two vertical cracks. Climb the left crack 6m before emerging left of the dassie traverse bisecting the buttress.
Start 3m right of Crag, move diagonally right 6m to a ledge. behind a loose flake is a stance.
Move along the ledge (which direction??) then traverse left for 4m to stand on a loose block. climb up via a vert crack to a stance.
Continue up the chimney for 12m then exit right to a broad ledge (this brings the hut into view).
From the top of a large block climb diagonally right to a small ledge beneath an overhang. traverse 6m right and up to a ledge.
Start: this route starts below two narrow overhangs which are about 10 up the face. There should be a cairn at its base.
Climb diagonally left to a thin ledge below the left hand overhang. Move left up to a grassy ledge. Continue up to a higher ledge on the right. Some delicate climbing to the overhang above enables one to step right, and up to another ledge (With old peg). Climb up, traverse left on a thin rail for 2m and climb straight up (Hard) to a ledge.
Climb the right wall of the open book to the Halfway Ledge. This pitch ends directly below the upper sections of Fraser's Frontal. Walk left along the ledge 30m to where the ledge narrows. Start underneath an undercut recess with some suspicious looking rock.
A sensational pitch: Move left and up into the recess (nuts and old pegs provide pro). Climb the recess to the ceiling, or use the face on the right. Traverse out along the narrow foot-rail below the ceiling to a tiny stance. Two large angles are used to gain the lip of the overhang where a good pull up onto a large block breaks the overhang and gives way to a very airy stance.
Climb the face above, moving diagonally left on good holds to a ledge. Easier climbing above leads to the top.
Start: 15m left of the cave, or on the right corner of the Right Block is a shallow, vertical recess capped by an overhang.
Climb the recess, move right at the top, then continue up a short face to a ledge.
Walk 6m right and climb a smooth, red face. Move slightly left at the top of the face to meet the Halfway Ledge.
Traverse 6m right to the foot of an amphitheatre capped by an overhang. The nose that forms the right side of the amphitheatre is the crux pitch of Nose. Take the recess on the left corner. Climb this recess to the Halfway Ledge, and stance on the left.
Climb the obvious recess, moving diagonally left, and continue up an easy face to a wide ledge. Either climb a short "D" gully to the top, or traverse right off the buttress.
"A Cragman route. In its day, without protection it must have been desperate"
Start: about 10m right of the drip in the Cave. Start beneath some brown overhangs which are 5m right and up the face.
Climb diagonally left up a face to an obvious stance below an overhanging crack with a tree on the right.
Climb the crack and continue up the recess to a broad ledge.
Walk 15m left to a recessed corner which is ascended to the Halfway Ledge
Walk left 7m to the other side of the overhang. Step from the block and climb 3m up a corner to a handrail under the roof. Traverse right 3m until its possible to move up to a small ledge. Traverse right 9m and move up to an obvious stance.
Climb down 2m to a broad ledge and traverse right.
Climb the face to a dassie ledge. Walk left 25m to a square corner.
Climb the crack in the corner the out left to a stepped face which is ascended to the top of the buttress.
FA:A. Cameron, C. Cameron, B. Cameron, A. Sluman, S. Smith & D. van Breda, 1936
Start: directly in front of a triangular block, a meter or so right of Fraser's
Climb the wall, traverse right, move up to a ledge, the continue to the right until it is possible to follow a diagonal line up and back to the left of the recess.
To the right of Fraser's pull up through an overhang onto a flat platform and continue up the recess above, then climb the short white wall directly ahead to a ledge.
Fraser's is now unavoidably crosses where it makes the long traverse from left to right over to a point next to the Postern "D" route. (Postern Face also crosses Fraser's Frontal here). Climb to a piton in the crack a meter or so from the left end of the ledge. After an awkward pull-up around a slight bulge, move up to a tiny niche, then pull through the overhanging wall on horizontal handrails to reach the Halfway Ledge next so some bushes and a large block.
Climb the large recess at the start of the Halfway ledge (where one has to descend from the blocks), up to an off-balance jam move next to a piton. A Delicate lay-back move leads up to the handrail under the overhang. Traverse left and up.
Traverse left to the base of the left or two recesses.
Postern Nose is crossed here as it used the easier recess on the right. Climb the recess using fingertip lay-back crack, which curves over to the right and is very strenuous. Pull up to a sloping ledge using two deep finger holds. Step up to the ledge and walk off to the right.
This route starts about 8m right of the overhang by the tea cave. Pull onto the wall and follow 2 steep recesses until able to move right into the vertical hand crack. Straight to the top.
Start on the path at the left end of the crag up a clean slabby face beneath a step over roof. Step left at the roof for a small prow, then follow the main crack above to a vague rail about 2m below the next overlap. Traverse 3-4m right to a break in the overlap and take good holds to the top.
Start from the ledge. Take the big open book on the left end of the ledge (the one facing the ocean, not the one facing the ledge). Exit left the open book at the overhang, then finish as for First Casualty above.
One of the few routes to face south, this line is at the very right end of the crag and starts in a open book/crack before stepping onto the left face, past a small protrusion to a rail, then onto the top. Best of luck coming down as the opening party got lost trying to walk off.
This route has excellent quality rock and is well worth doing. It is possible to link P1 & 2.
Climb the clean and steep face, aiming for the dihedral. Step left onto a ledge and stance.
Pull through the obvious break in the roof above and head straight up to a large ledge.
Scramble up and use some short pillar like features to gain the crack in the face above. Follow this up and left, until beneath a roof. Bypass the roof on the left hand side.
Scramble to the top.
Descent: walk off via the gully on the left (facing out).
FA:M. Mamacos, J. Henry, E. Rudnick & O. Shipley, 1950
Can-Can
Approach
As for Cha-Cha
Start
Start up an orange corner to the left of a prominent, dark overhang with a good drip on its left side. Stash walking gear some 40m below at a cairned tea cave as this saves you time later.
Pitch 1 17, 52m
Climb the orange corner on good rock to a wide ledge at 15m. Step diagonally right over blocky ground to continue up a red, cracked wall to a good ledge about 30m beyond the first ledge.
Pitch 2 18, 30m (17?)
Via right off the stance for 5m before tending up and left to the obvious break in the roof below a grey open book. Pull through the overhang on good holds to stand in the well protected corner. Exit to the left and traverse a few metres left to a narrow ledge.
Pitch 3 17 20m
Climb the corner above the ledge on good rock. Move left around an overhang to a bushy ledge. Stance here or continue up and slightly left for 10m on grey rounded rock to a smaller ledge on the left.
Pitch 4 16 30m
Climb the corner above the small ledge for 10m until a roof, traverse right, then tend left on easy ground, around a small corner, and up a short face to top out besides a touchstone
Descent
Walk off the back of the buttress (cairns) heading towards the main Corridor ravine path
The route starts roughly in the middle of the north-west face of Corridor Buttress next to a scruffy gully.
Climb up clean rock to the right of the gully until it is possible to traverse into the gully itself. Continue up the gully into a cubbyhole stance under an overhang at the top.
Traverse about 2m to the right of the gully, climb up for 6m on a face involving delicate movements, and then use a thin footrail to gain a corner on the left. Continue up and to the left into a recess, proceed past one ledge to another via a reddish-coloured face (this latter ledge is more convenient for belaying the next pitch).
Climb diagonally across the face to the right to reach a block projecting from the face. Step down 1m, traverse 6m to the right and continue diagonally up to a tiny stance next to a large flake leaning against the face.
Proceed diagonally up to the gap in the overhang; climb up through the gap before moving 2m across to the right into a chimney-like recess (the vital flake hold is sound). Continue up the recess to a cave-like stance under the overhangs.
Traverse to the right using the top of an oblong block for handholds. Climb 3m to a comfortable stance above. Walk 6m to the right to the foot of a shallow, yellowish corner.
This pitch is complicated. Climb the yellowish corner, and move to the left to a narrow footrail. Follow the footrail to the right until it ends, step down 1.5m, continue to the right and then proceed up a flake-like block. Climb to a red recess further to the right. Step down 1m, and then traverse to the right again, by using a deeply cut handrail, onto the corner. Climb up to the right of the corner to reach a comfortable stance.
Traverse left to a stance at the foot of the recess.
Climb the recess before moving out left. Continue diagonally to the left across the face to reach a large, bushy stance.
Climb the chimney to the left of the stance.
Traverse left along the ledge to the foot of a gully leading to the summit.
60m of scrambling, including some 'E' standard movements, takes one to the top of the buttress.
Start: on a white corner to the left of the recess used by Grootkop Wall and takes the line right up the final 'gable' of the buttress.
(13) Climb the white corner to a narrow ledge running across the face, and from a point where the ledge ends to the left, climb up and slightly right, taking the easiest line up the bulging face to a stance near the corner.
(9) Climb up on the left to a broad ledge above.
(17) Almost immediately behind, a 'half-moon' crack can be seen, the bottom of which is about 6m from the ground and forms am overhang to the left. (The 'flange' pitch on Grootkop Wall is some 25m to the right). Climb the left-hand corner to a point under the overhang. Traverse out to the right to the bottomless half-moon crack and pull up into it. Continue 4m up the crack to a small platform and a further 6m to a wide ledge.
(16) Start on the white face about 5m to the left of the corner used by Grootkop Wall. Climb straight up, moving slightly to the left and back to the right before an awkward pull up. Move up the corner and back to the left, then up to a ledge.
(8) Grootkop Wall route is crossed on this ledge, which goes up easy rock on the left to a point where its final pitches start. This route (Gable) goes up equally easy rock on the right to a point below a large, pillar-like feature which leads to the right hand side of of the prominent long, narrow overhang on the face.
(12) Start to the right of the recess formed by the pillar and face, moving across to the left higher up past a chimney formed by the pillar, and climb up the outside to a stance above. (This stance is at the right-hand end of the long, narrow overhang, to the mid-point of which Grootkop Wall ascends).
(13) From the right-hand end of the stance, traverse to the right under the overhang to a stance.
(13) Climb the overhanging recess immediately above and continue up a bushy recess to a broad ledge above. Walk approximately 45m to the left to where a beacon will be found at the foot of a broken white face with a prominent flake about 25m up.
(12) Climb the face to a small ledge below the flake.
(13) Climb the flake, move out to the left at the top and continue up and to the left over easy rock to the foot of the final white bulging face. The next pitch starts on the face below and to the left of the prominent 'nose' some 30m higher.
(17) Climb up a 3m corner and walk about 6m to the right along the ledge so gained. By a series of pull-ups, move up the bulging face slightly to the right until a narrow ledge is reached below a small overhang. do a layback up the corner on the right and move out to the right at the top onto the white face. Continue up to a stance situated well out from the face below.
(13) Climb over the blocks at the back of the stance and around to the right into a recess, then pull up onto a ledge at the foot of a large open-book recess. from the ledge, move out on the left-hand wall to gain a vertical crack, which is ascended by using jammed chockstones (the second chockstone is loose). Climb a final face at the top of the crack to complete the climb.
Start: as for AA: start beneath the huge hanging corner that is AA.
Climb up to a fairly wide ledge, then traverse right to the corner of the buttress. Step up and move right to the main face of the buttress, then climb up for 18m to a wide ledge. Walk right for 2m to the base of a thin vertical crack, 2m right from the edge of the ledge.
Climb this crack to a small ledge and continue straight up the undercut fault to a small recess. Climb the right hand edge of this recess for 6m to a small stance at the top of a pinnacle.
Go up to handrails beneath the overhang, then traverse 6m right to gain a small ledge. climb the fault above, past a small, lose (but safe) flak to gain the ledge and traverse right to a stance.
4). Traverse back left to reach an undercut recess directly above the last pitch. Climb this to a broad grassy ledge and continue up the weathered face beyond to the top of the buttress.
Start 3m left of where the roof above the tea cave ends. Pull onto the wall at a broken crack that splits the face above. Head straight up and right keeping between the two large, vague cracks. At a roof (about 15m up), climb the wide crack on its left. At the next ledge continue up over the next roof where a projecting block hangs under the roof. Continue easily up and left ~7m to reach a tat anchor at a touch point.
Climb straight up through the broken-up face to a substantial ledge directly below a cave.
[14] 12m:
Move 8m right, and continue to a restricted ledge partly composed of bollards. The route follows a deep, vertical crack leading into a cave-like recess under a triangular overhang. At this point move out right 1-2m in order to continue up the fault which now breaks through the triangular overhang.
[14] 16m:
A little distance above, there is a shallow cave containing several large, jagged boulder formations. Climb the vertical fault running through this to a broad ledge. Alternatively, move to the left and then climb up for 3m before moving to the right to the same finish.
[14] 10m:
In order to reach the platform on the free-standing pinnacle, which is a feature of this part of the mountain, climb the pleasant 4m face with small Cederberg-like grips. This pitch is adjacent to 'Avalanche Crag'.
[14] 10m:
Cross the chasm between the free-standing pinnacle and the mountain, and climb the cleft on the right, i.e. the nearest one to 'Staircase' which leads to the top of the Cobblestones Gendarme.
[17] 12m:
The pitch which is strenuous for 3m, runs straight up the face immediately above. Climb up and pull through the overlap, move left and up a shallow, vertical recess for 1-2m before moving right on flange-type grips for about 1m then continue up to the broad ledge above. 'Cobblestone Face' also finishes on this ledge.
This route is around 20 left of the point where one would get abseiling from the top of staircase route.
Climb the face just to the left of the arête tending to the right just before getting under the overhang. Climb the arê to stand up in a small ledge above the overhang. Traverse a meter left and climb the 5m face, with no gear but good holds, to a bigger ledge.
From the ledge, head to the face on the left on the face and find the clearest way to the staircase ledge.
Walk around 8 meters left to a single bench looking rock and climb a small crack system just in front of it (it is just two meters right to the staircase chimney system). Climb the crack to a good ledge. Head right to the top of the big block and up to a big ledge.
This routes ends conveniently very close to the abseil point and an easy scrambling take one to the top of the mountain.
