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Jobi-san, Jobi-am

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 108
  • Aka: 조비암

Seasonality

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D

Description

Jobi-am 조비암 has a plethora of nice roof routes above the cave, which is located in the center of the crag. It also offers both easy and hard face routes on either side of the cave. The crag is in the sun all day because it faces directly south. The hard roof routes above the cave were added recently. The crux on the roof easily disappears after a couple of hard pulls. Most of the routes have names and grades painted at the bottom. The bolts look very good and the rock quality, for the most part, is excellent. Two easy traditional climbing routes were also established on either side of the cave, where you can place a few cams if you would like to ignore the bolts on the routes.

Approach

From Seoul, take a bus to Yongin Bus Terminal 용인. From Yongin, transfer to a bus bound for Baekam 백암. At Baekam Bus Stop, take a bus heading towards Jangpyeongsamgyeri 장평삼거리. From there, walk straight for five minutes on the road and hike to Jobisan Garden Restaurant 조비산가든. Continue on the unpaved road for fifteen minutes. The crag can be seen all the way from the bus stop.

Descent notes

Gear 10 draws and a 50m rope. Bring some trad gear if you want to practice placing pieces on the multi-pitch routes. Safety For the routes on the far right side, a helmet is recommended. Additional Comments When the weather is bad, local climbers camp out in the cave, which is large enough for two or three tents. However, there is a spacious area in front of the cave for pitching tents as well. Water and food should be bought at the bus terminal.

Routes

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Grade Route

5.11d on some old route list. In the route tag at the start of route reads 5.12a now. It must have been upgraded.

#1 on topo. First route right of cave area.

#2 on topo. Downgraded from 5.13a

#3 on topo. Starts right of Jobisan Owl and crosses over to the left.

#4 on topo. Downgraded from 5.12a

#8 on topo. Several beginner routes right next to each other in this area. Great for toproping or beginner leading.

#10 on topo. Translated as "Iron Palms"

#11 on topo. Translated as "Deep Sea"

#31 on topo. Large roof right off the ground. One bolt below the roof, one right at the lip. After the roof, a few moves up a small corner to the anchors.

#35 on topo

#36 on topo

#39 on topo.

#40 on topo. Upgraded from old guidebook (11c to 11d)

#44 on topo.

#45 on topo

#47 on topo

#48 on topo

#49 on topo. Second pitch is low angle climbing above anchors to the top of the ridge.

1p (5.8|30m) 2p (5.9|25m)

1p (5.8|40m) 2p (5.8|20m)

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Fri 28 Apr
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