Routes in Catalunya

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
• Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

The route is 45-degrees overhanging with a boulder problem to pull over into the final slab. 25 moves of 8c+ to reach a poor rest. Then 10 moves to reach the crux: a jump from a mono to a big pinch. Afterwards endurance 8b+ with few rests. Yellow rock at the bottom that goes to white and at the top it is grey.

Shares anchor with First Round First Minute.

Climbs the first few meters of "I Have a Dream" and then climbs left into "A 2 Bandas". Youtube FA

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

A left finish to "Café Colombia".

To the second anchor of "The Journey".

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

Direct start of Estado Critico.

A "hard and beautiful" king line test piece put up by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+, J. Schubert has suggested it could be a hard 9a+. Felipe seemed to confirm the 9b grade.

Ascents:

• Chris Sharma - 7 March 2015
• Jakob Schubert - 2 December 2018
• Felipe Camargo - 18 April 2019

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

A combination of "The Journey" and "Café Colombia".

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela.

Seleccio Anal is a link-up between "Seleccio Natural" and "Analogica".

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

• Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
• Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• Sachi Amma
• Cédric Lachat
• Jakob Schubert
• Domen Škofic
• Magnus Midtbø
• Mateusz Haladaj
• Jonathan Siegrist
• Daniel Woods
• Matty Hong
• Piotr Schab
• Said Belhaj
• Klemen Bečan
• Patxi Usobiaga
• Jon Cardwell
• Felipe Camargo
• Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

To the first anchor.

Combination of Carlota (8c) into the top of "The Full Journey"

Starts on "Carlota", passes by the first anchor of "The Journey" to finish on "Café Colombia".

9a or 9a+ - Jorge Díaz-Rullo given a upgrade

40m of one and two finger pockets and crimps.

Variant of Llamps I Trons.

The original route was bolted in 1993 by Alexander Huber. First ascension: Alexander Huber in 1994. Assigned grade was 8c+ (length: 35 m).

Daniel Andrada added a 6 m extension and the climb is known as La Rambla/La Rambla Direct/La Rambla Extension. Grade: 9a+ (length: 41m).

This is the full length of La Rambla and includes the traverse after the first anchor. It connects to the anchor of La Reina Mora.

Climbed by Margo Hayes in 2017 making her the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+.

The first route in ninth grade of Montserrat.

Ciudad de Dios linked into La Novena Enmienda.

The full length of Open Your Mind Direct with its 15m extension.

The grade of this route varied from an initial 9a+ to 9a/9a+ or even 9a. After the ascent by Mateusz Haladaj a hold broke and Ashima Shiraishi was the first to repeat the route after that. Since then the consensus is at 9a/9a+.

Links JoeDan into La Enmienda.

A long traverse and a variante of Tekimuking de la Mare.

A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

Connects "Victimes del Passat", with "Gancho Perfecto". Initially graded 8c+ par Ramon Julian, it was upgraded to 9a/+ by Tom Bolger and Jorge Díaz-Rullo.

Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018).

Shares the first part with Wild Publico and the Upper Part with Pal Oeste.

Començant mà esquerra sota fisura i mà derata a regleta)

#sd

A traverse.

This is "Open Your Mind" with its extension.

The direct version starts further left from "Trio Ternura" and is called Open Your Mind Direct. This one ends at the first anchor, without extension.

Start as Trio Ternura. Full route.

This is "Selecció Natural" with the additional 7B move to the second anchor.

Above Digital System.

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

Same start as "La Vida en High Definition".

This route climbs the first half of "Perfecto Mundo" and then swoops into "Víctimes del Passat" all the way to the top taking in some of the best climbing to be had in Margalef!

First ascent video

Start like 'Directa Rodellar', finish in 'La Bongada'.

Start left of "Pal Este" and climb into "Pal Publico".

Starts on Jungle Speed and then left into the project Last Night.