Routes in Central Outer Pyrenees

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
• Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela.

Seleccio Anal is a link-up between "Seleccio Natural" and "Analogica".

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

• Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
• Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
• Ramón Julián Puigblanque
• Sachi Amma
• Cédric Lachat
• Jakob Schubert
• Domen Škofic
• Magnus Midtbø
• Mateusz Haladaj
• Jonathan Siegrist
• Daniel Woods
• Matty Hong
• Piotr Schab
• Said Belhaj
• Klemen Bečan
• Patxi Usobiaga
• Jon Cardwell
• Felipe Camargo
• Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

Ciudad de Dios linked into La Novena Enmienda.

The full length of Open Your Mind Direct with its 15m extension.

The grade of this route varied from an initial 9a+ to 9a/9a+ or even 9a. After the ascent by Mateusz Haladaj a hold broke and Ashima Shiraishi was the first to repeat the route after that. Since then the consensus is at 9a/9a+.

Links JoeDan into La Enmienda.

A long traverse and a variante of Tekimuking de la Mare.

A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

Començant mà esquerra sota fisura i mà derata a regleta)

A traverse.

This is "Open Your Mind" with its extension.

The direct version starts further left from "Trio Ternura" and is called Open Your Mind Direct. This one ends at the first anchor, without extension.

Start as Trio Ternura. Full route.

This is "Selecció Natural" with the additional 7B move to the second anchor.

Above Digital System.

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

Climbs to the anchor of "Rollito Sharma".

A long traverse.

A hold broke in summer 2015 and it is now more likely a 9a.

Sit start

Sit start

Començant amb dos mans a fisura

La Fabela first section.

This is the route that stops at the first anchor when it crosses into "Digital System". It climbs the left side of the cave. The grade proposed changed a few times depending on the climber and broken holds.

extension of the classic Santa Linya (8a+/8b), a short boulder right after the first chains.

Monique Forestier's 2016 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c+/34.

The original treverse identified by Maikel Secanella in 1996.

Sit start

Sit start

L1: 8b+

up to the first anchor. Flashed by Janja Garnbret in 2016.

Open Your Mind starts for the first 15m or so on "Trio Ternura". This version ends at a single quickdraw and does not include the extension.

gravid sher