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Ayagaures Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ayose alonsoATCO Melwin Quacke aK Jan Suter Mike el titan Heineken Campbell Gome

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Ayagaures 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 27.865944, -15.607520

summary

Some old topo

Nice crag for winter, especially if you are moving between the sixth and eighth grade.

description

This rather remote climbing spot in a gorge with a small creek features comparatively new routes in the mid and upper grades. Route heights often touch 30m. Climbing smooth faces and clean-cut dihedrals dominate. Thanks to the two opposing walls you will find shade or sun as you wish.

It is more recommended to go on winter or on cloudy days. The rock needs a bit of time to cool down until the shadow comes.

approach

( 27.857751, -15.603466)

From the parking walk up crappy stairs at the left of the dam and follow the upper reservoir western shore along a narrow path on a ledge (exposed in places) and some water pipes. After 10 min the path dissolves in the riverbed. Proceed for another 200 m and you stand between the two walls of the gorge.

1.1. Entrada 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 27.865736, -15.607740

summary

A few new routes bolted at the entrance of the crag, right before the Principal sector. Some of them not really clean yet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 N.N #1 5+ Sport
2 N.N #2

The first clip really high and the rock has zero quality, watch out.

6a Sport
3 N.N #3

Same start as 4 but they split halfway up. this goes through the left edge.

6c Sport
4 N.N #4

same start as 3, this goues straight up

6c Sport

1.2. Principal 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 27.866327, -15.607542

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Esencia de invierno 7a Sport 22m
2 Psicología deportiva 7a Sport
3 El gusto padre 6c+ Sport 22m
4 Del tingo al tango

Nice christals at the third bold.

6b+ Sport 22m
5 Los hombres rudos también bailan

In the Climbo paper guidebook theres a mistake with this route and "del tingo al tango". this is the 7a+

7a+ Sport 11
6 Camarero!!! 7b Sport
7 Apúntatela 8a Sport
8 Ariete 7c Sport
9 Síntomas de virus 7c Sport
10 Adolescentismo 7b+ Sport
11 Jaca Placa

It has two pitches, the second one has some holds that might fall apart. The first pitch is OK.

6c Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Caballo de Troya 7b Sport
13 Agüanta la puerta 7b+ Sport
14 Rollito de primavera

This route is usually full of birds shits as it is not definitely the most popular one around.

6c+ Sport
15 Busca y encontrarás

A fun route that feels easier than the guidebook grade (7b). An easy tick some would say, if you figure out the awkward section at the top. There's a good hold near the crux that it's about to come off even though it's glued with resin.

7b Sport 30m
16 Biiiiii

Warning Rock: Left side of first part can be flakey

7a Sport
17 Vaya Falo 6c Sport
18 Letivalm 6a+ Sport
19 El cenicero 7a Sport
20 Cenizas por donde pisas 6a+ Sport
21 Scary Route 6b Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 Hermano Loco

At the somewhat separated pinnacle in the centre of the wall, follow right leaning hand crack and glue-ins to summit anchor. Wear a helmet, rock can be loose.

FA: Melwin Quacke & Ody Heineken, 2011

6b Sport 20m, 9

1.3. Lácteo 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 27.866430, -15.607165

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Magic Córner 7c Sport
2 Dos y un día 6b+ Sport
3 Gritos pa ná

Warning Fixed Gear: Grado equivocado

7a+ on the first guidebook, 6c on the second one. If it is a 6c, it is definitely harder than the crux of all the 7a at this crag. -> Local climbers call this a 6c, but the common say is that its harder

6c Sport
4 Chiguaca 7a+ Sport
5 Apalancá

Warning Rock: Some loose rock at the beggining of the route

7a Sport
6 Vía Láctea

Video.

7c+ Sport
7 Rampatack 7b+ Sport
8 Por partes 8a+ Sport
9 El cazador sueños Sport
10 Mi quesito tierno Sport
11 Mucha torta 6c+ Sport
12 Concierto de Gemidos 7c Sport

1.4. Arriba 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 27.867194, -15.607237

approach

Just 3 minutes walking after the Principal sector, also on the western wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No name (Route 12) 7a Sport
2 Danonino 7a+ Sport
3 Petisuis 7a Sport
4 Yogurt 7a Sport
5 Vuelta al paraíso

Warning Fixed Gear: the bolt previous to the anchor moves

Quite nice, but not really clean and the first bolt is extremely high placed. - The bolt previous to the anchor moves, so be extremely careful -

6c Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Fisura X 6c Sport
7 Sembrando la duda

It is a nice route, but a huge rock seems about to fall. If someone decides to climb it, better to don't grab whatever feels like loose.

6b Sport
8 El pastún 6b+ Sport
9 Kus kus 7a+ Sport
10 Salto del ángel 7a Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Quinto elemento

Guidebook says 5+, but it obviously isn't. Locals give it 6a/+.

6a/a+ Sport 12m
12 Independencia 6b Sport 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5+ N.N #1 Sport 1.1. Entrada
6a N.N #2 Sport 1.1. Entrada
6a/a+ Quinto elemento Sport 12m 1.4. Arriba
6a+ Cenizas por donde pisas Sport 1.2. Principal
Letivalm Sport 1.2. Principal
6b Hermano Loco Sport 20m, 9 1.2. Principal
Scary Route Sport 1.2. Principal
Independencia Sport 12m 1.4. Arriba
Sembrando la duda Sport 1.4. Arriba
6b+ Del tingo al tango Sport 22m 1.2. Principal
Dos y un día Sport 1.3. Lácteo
El pastún Sport 1.4. Arriba
6c N.N #3 Sport 1.1. Entrada
N.N #4 Sport 1.1. Entrada
Jaca Placa Sport 1.2. Principal
Vaya Falo Sport 1.2. Principal
Gritos pa ná Sport 1.3. Lácteo
Fisura X Sport 1.4. Arriba
Vuelta al paraíso Sport 1.4. Arriba
6c+ El gusto padre Sport 22m 1.2. Principal
Rollito de primavera Sport 1.2. Principal
Mucha torta Sport 1.3. Lácteo
7a Biiiiii Sport 1.2. Principal
El cenicero Sport 1.2. Principal
Esencia de invierno Sport 22m 1.2. Principal
Psicología deportiva Sport 1.2. Principal
Apalancá Sport 1.3. Lácteo
No name (Route 12) Sport 1.4. Arriba
Petisuis Sport 1.4. Arriba
Salto del ángel Sport 15m 1.4. Arriba
Yogurt Sport 1.4. Arriba
7a+ Los hombres rudos también bailan Sport 11 1.2. Principal
Chiguaca Sport 1.3. Lácteo
Danonino Sport 1.4. Arriba
Kus kus Sport 1.4. Arriba
7b Busca y encontrarás Sport 30m 1.2. Principal
Caballo de Troya Sport 1.2. Principal
Camarero!!! Sport 1.2. Principal
7b+ Adolescentismo Sport 1.2. Principal
Agüanta la puerta Sport 1.2. Principal
Rampatack Sport 1.3. Lácteo
7c Ariete Sport 1.2. Principal
Síntomas de virus Sport 1.2. Principal
Concierto de Gemidos Sport 1.3. Lácteo
Magic Córner Sport 1.3. Lácteo
7c+ Vía Láctea Sport 1.3. Lácteo
8a Apúntatela Sport 1.2. Principal
8a+ Por partes Sport 1.3. Lácteo
? El cazador sueños Sport 1.3. Lácteo
Mi quesito tierno Sport 1.3. Lácteo
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