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Table of contents
- 1. Mont Port / Puig de Migdia 59 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mont Port 59 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 39.551618, 2.371350
- Declaration of Good Practice (Catalan) - translate with Google
- Permit Application (Catalan) - translate with Google
description
Mont Port está situado en el suroeste de Mallorca cerca de Port d'Andratx y ofrece dos sectores que son bastante diferentes de la vista sola. Desde el sector Sombra se puede ver un litoral salpicado de casas. En el sector Dragonera ni un solo edificio enturbia la vista. Aquí solo hay naturaleza y mar abierto. En un día despejado se puede ver la isla de Ibiza en el horizonte, y por la tarde el sol baña de rojo mágico la pequeña isla de Sa Dragonera. Impulsa el aire salado del mar contra las rocas y la fricción disminuye.
Los pequeños muros de Mont Port han sido el proyecto más importante de Andrés Morales, más conocido como 'Txolo', en los últimos años. Se había enterado de una roca en el lado este del Mont Port en 2012, con cinco o seis vías perforadas por Toni Riscos tiempo atrás. A primera vista, la roca del actual sector Sombra Txolo no convencía. Solo había vías cortas de unos 15 metros de longitud, pero le motivaba el fácil acceso y la oportunidad de escalar en verano. Se puso a trabajar y agregó casi 30 rutas más. Zyon (6b), Choque de adrenalina (6c+) y Arista Güllich (7c+) son tres de ellas que definitivamente deberías haber escalado. kl-escalada-mallorca-c-esteban-pano-q (jpg) Esteban Lahoz Escalada con vistas: El sector Dragonera con su brillante panorámica.
Pero eso no es todo. El equipo de desarrollo esperaba que también hubiera algunas rocas escondidas al otro lado del Mont Port. La alegría fue igualmente grande cuando descubrieron la cueva y el muro oeste. Su deseo de poder abrir grandes líneas en un entorno de ensueño se hizo realidad. Y con el primer recorrido del Txolo por la cara oeste, nace en 2013 el sector Dragonera.
Hoy en día la zona de escalada del Mont Port está prácticamente desarrollada en su totalidad. Como en todas las zonas cercanas al mar, también existe el problema de la corrosión. Inicialmente, las rutas se roscaron con pernos regulares de 10 mm, pero una vez que se repiten y queda claro dónde se colocan mejor los pernos, se reemplazarán con pernos de titanio. Se lanzará una campaña de crowdfunding para cubrir estos costos.
Por supuesto, no tenemos que agradecer a una sola persona por la nueva área. También estuvieron presentes Carlos Raimundo, Sergi Segui, Raquel Mulet, Alberto Juaneda y amigos de Villena. Finalmente, invito a todos a explorar Mallorca, con sus muchos rincones especiales y zonas de escalada gratificantes. ¡Sube al Mont Port por la tarde hasta que se pone el sol y las rocas brillan de rojo! Los escaladores somos muy afortunados de poder disfrutar de estos lugares y ambientes.
Mont Port is located in the southwest of Mallorca near Port d'Andratx and offers two sectors that are quite different from the view alone. From the Sombra sector you can see a coastline dotted with houses. In the Dragonera sector not a single building clouds the view. Here there is only nature and the open sea. On a clear day you can see the island of Ibiza on the horizon, and in the evening the sun bathes the small island of Sa Dragonera in magical red. It drives the salty sea air against the rocks and the friction decreases.
The small walls of Mont Port have been the most important project of Andrés Morales, better known as 'Txolo', in recent years. He had learned of a rock on the east side of Mont Port in 2012, with five or six routes drilled by Toni Riscos some time ago. At first glance, the rock in today's Sombra Txolo sector was not convincing. There were only short routes of around 15 meters in length, but the easy access and the opportunity to climb in the summer motivated him. He went to work and added almost 30 more routes. Zyon (6b), Choque de adrenalina (6c +) and Arista Güllich (7c +) are three of them that you should definitely have climbed. kl-climbing-mallorca-c-esteban-pano-q (jpg) Esteban Lahoz Climbing with a view: The Dragonera sector with its brilliant panorama.
But that's not all. The development team hoped that there would also be some rocks hidden on the other side of Mont Port. The joy was correspondingly great when they discovered the cave and the west wall. Her desire to be able to open up great lines in a dreamlike environment became reality. And with Txolo's first route on the west face, the Dragonera sector was born in 2013.
Today the Mont Port climbing area is practically completely developed. As in all areas near the sea, there is also the problem of corrosion. The routes were initially tapped with regular 10mm bolts, but once they're all repeated and it's clear where the bolts are best placed, they'll be replaced with titanium bolts. A crowdfunding campaign is to be launched to cover these costs.
Of course, we don't have just one person to thank for the new area. Also present were Carlos Raimundo, Sergi Segui, Raquel Mulet, Alberto Juaneda and friends from Villena. Finally, I invite everyone to explore Mallorca, with its many special corners and rewarding climbing areas. Climb Mont Port in the afternoon until the sun goes down and the rocks glow red! We climbers are extremely lucky to be able to enjoy such places and atmospheres.
access issues
Since 2013 a permit is necessary for access to the nature protection zone of Sierra de Tramuntana. More information at https://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/como_solicitar_una_autorizacion-22089/ and since 5/2020, only the online application is possible, not any more the email-based. If you can provide more details about the online process, please edit this text.
Before 5/2020, you could apply by sending the following two signed documents plus a copy of your ID document (driving licence or passport) to the email autoritzacions@dgmambie.caib.es
For climbing area put 'Serra de Tramuntana' and for dates put the duration of your stay.
approach
Sector Dragonera: (39.551583, 2.371222)
Sector Sombra: (39.551417, 2.371167)
Desde Palma por la autopista dirección Andratx y continuar por la circunvalación al Port de Andratx. Desde allí, siga las indicaciones hacia el Hotel Mont Port Spa. Justo antes del hotel, gira a la derecha por Carrer Cala de Egos con asfalto amarillo y sigue la carretera hasta el final del asfalto. Estacionar aquí. Desde el parking seguir un camino a la izquierda que discurre aproximadamente paralelo al camino que lleva a Cala de Egos. Después de unos 50 metros llegará a un cruce. El camino de la derecha lleva al sector Dragonera en unos 20 minutos, el camino de la izquierda a la parte alta del sector Sombra (10 minutos).
From Palma on the motorway towards Andratx and continue on the bypass to Port de Andratx. From there, follow the signs to the Hotel Mont Port Spa. Just before the hotel, turn right onto Carrer Cala de Egos with yellow asphalt and follow the road to the end of the asphalt. Park here. From the parking lot follow a path on the left that runs roughly parallel to the path that leads to Cala de Egos. After about 50 meters you will come to a junction. The right path leads to the Dragonera sector in about 20 minutes, the left path to the upper part of the Sombra sector (10 mins).
history
Some background information in DE at outdoor-magazin.com (2018)
1.1. Sombra 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.551391, 2.371132
description
Topo.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
TopoTopo. | ||||||||
| 2 | Betty | 6a | ||||||
| 3 | Wilma | 6b | ||||||
| 4 | Andratx Connection | 6c+/7a | ||||||
| 5 | Arista Güllich | 8a | ||||||
| 6 | One love | 6a+ | ||||||
| 7 | ★★★ Fisura | 5+ | ||||||
| 8 | ★★ Sa Moleta | 6a+ | ||||||
| 9 | Bob Marley | 6c+/7a | ||||||
| 10 | Project | |||||||
| 11 | Cambio climático | 7b | ||||||
| 12 | Riscos Legends | 7a+ | ||||||
| 13 | Choque de adrenalina | 6c+ | ||||||
| 14 | Moño apretado | 6a+ | ||||||
| 15 | Sirena | 6a | ||||||
| 16 | Croónicas de un nómada | 6b+ | ||||||
| 17 | ★★ Rostro pálido | 6b | ||||||
| 18 | Great Grandfather | 6a+ | ||||||
| 19 | Blue mountain | 6b+ | ||||||
| 20 | ★★ Babylon | 6c+ | ||||||
| 21 | Zyon | 6c | ||||||
| 22 | Thump Up - Thumb Down | 7b | ||||||
| 23 | Lida | 6b | ||||||
1.2. Cueva 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Topo.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
TopoTopo. | ||||||||
| 2 | Follones | 7b | ||||||
| 3 | Directa a Follones | 7b+ | ||||||
| 4 | Coltán | 8a+ | ||||||
| 5 | Ruina Maya | |||||||
| 6 | La máquina suiza | |||||||
| 7 | Shiva | 7b+ | ||||||
| 8 | Varanasi | 8b/b+ | ||||||
| 9 | Comando Villena | 8a+/b | ||||||
| 10 | El templo del sol | 8a | ||||||
| 11 | Eclipse | |||||||
| 12 | El templo de la luna | |||||||
| 13 | Recurso inhumanos | 7b+ | ||||||
| 14 | La franja de Gaza | 8a | ||||||
| 15 | Unknown Name | 7a | ||||||
1.3. Dragonera 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 39.551652, 2.371212
description
Topo.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
TopoTopo. | ||||||||
| 2 |
★ s/n
Starts with a slab to the immediate left of Pequeño coati | 4+/5 | 12m | |||||
| 3 | ★★★ Pequeño coati | 6a+ | ||||||
| 4 | ★★ Alegria | 5+ | ||||||
| 5 |
★ Hematoma
Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty bolts | 5+ | ||||||
| 6 | ★★ Planeta Rojo | 6a | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Desconocida 1
Prolongación hacia la izquierda saliendo desde la reunión de "Planeta Rojo". Chorrera muy húmeda si ha habido días lluviosos. | 6b+ | ||||||
| 8 |
Desconocida 2
Prolongación hacia la derecha saliendo desde la reunión de "Planeta Rojo". Grado entre 7a y 7a+. | 7a | ||||||
| 9 | ★★★ Asteriode | 6b+ | ||||||
| 10 | Sherpa | 7a+ | ||||||
| 11 | ★★★ Mako 11 | 7a | ||||||
| 12 | ★★ Shisha Pangma | 7a+ | ||||||
| 13 | ★★★ Namec, Nuvol Kinton | 7a | 2 | |||||
| 14 | Kaito, Superguerrer | 7a | 2 | |||||
| 15 | Wild Planet | 7a+ | ||||||
| 16 | Wild Spirit | 7b+ | ||||||
| 17 | Austericidio | 7c | ||||||
| 18 | ★★★ Nanga Parbat | 7a+ | ||||||
| 19 | ★ Ní-Mu | 6c | ||||||
| 20 | ★★ Parque de diversión | 6a+ | ||||||
| 21 | ★★ Los deshauciados | 6a+ | ||||||
| 22 | ★ Je suis Charlie | 6a | ||||||
| 23 |
★ Mig dia
Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty second anchor | 5+ | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 24 | Hielo Negro | 6a | 2 | |||||
