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description

A mega classic! All belays, except the summit, are triple bolted anchors configured for guide-mode belaying.

  1. 30m Solo up the initial slab to the first anchor. Take care if climbing the loose flake / crack to the left.

  2. 50m (4) Easy but runout (4 bolts) up the initial slab.

  3. 30m (4) More of the same, but with more bolts.

  4. 35m (5) Nice climbing beside a left facing corner and through a small roof. Loads of bolts.

  5. 20m (5+) Starting to steepen, but still pretty cruisy. Loads of bolts.

  6. 30m (6b+) The first "business" pitch - the endurance crux of the route. Moderate start leads to a steepening in the wall, where the difficulties begin. The climbing eases off again once you gain the arete. Very very tightly bolted (take at least 20 quickdraws if you intend to clip everything, but skipping bolts or back cleaning is a better option).

  7. 15m (6c) The second "business" pitch - the technical crux of the route. Some very tenuous moves up the steep wall. Also very tightly bolted.

  8. 25m (6a) One or two dicky moves around the arete (very well protected), then easy up the juggy slab to the top (a little runout). Belay off the steel contraption with the crown on top of the pinnacle, not the manky old anchor just before the final step.

Route history

1971First ascent: Manel Punsola & Jesús Reniu
24 Nov 2022Notable ascent: Luis Manzaneda

1er Solo integral

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 41.60073, 1.82306

Grade citation

6a/A0 (or 6c free) Assigned grade
6a A1 Albert Massachs
6c private
6c private

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 88 from 20 ratings.

Difficulty - 6c

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

6c

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 1
Attempt 4
Target 1
Flash 1
Tick 13
Onsight 4

Comment keywords

crux short easy technical rest arete epic amazing awesome great pleasant

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Luis Alfonso

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9788493952372

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found in the southern half of Montserrat detailing over 1,700 single pitch routes from F3 to F9a+.

Author(s): Josep E. Castellnou Ribau and Fina Ferret

Date: 2015

A selective guidebook describing over 1,000 of the very best routes found at Montserrat on great conglomerate rock, across a wide range of grades.

Author(s): Luis Alfonso

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9788493952310

A comprehensive guidebook describing the long multi-pitch rock climbing routes found in the southern half of Montserrat, detailing 580 multi-pitch routes, with many of these over 200m long, and across a wide range of grades from F3 to F7b+.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 15 May
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