Ascents in Pince Sans Rire as Hang dog

Vía para ir con las pilas alcalinas a tope!!

Superb route, real fun. Burned myself clipping the last bolt and screwed the onsight running out of fuel in the next good jugs. Took air big time, super safe though.

Stupidly fell on the crux for the onsight. Nice warm up, all good holds

Amazing route - so close!

Really fun! Went the wrong way under the roof and took a take

2 goes

Such a shame that all the good holds in the obvious line are loose, this route would have been 3 stars if those holds are glued back on. Without being able to use those holds the route becomes quite contrived and significantly harder

To the first anchor.

Worked the pumpy crux and took a few attempts. Top head wall had a 5m run out. Finally committed to it and pumped out at the chains. Fell back, flipped upside down and smacked into wall. Moral? Wear a helmet. Glad it was on!

According to Ryan even though I did all the moves first time it doesn't count as an onsight, because I may have rested on the top 5 bolts while stick clipping my way to glory. Who appointed him the style police? I now know how ondra must have felt at the world champs.

High point & then one hung it, #surprised

Despite feeling tired, managed to get halfway through the redpoint crux before blowing off. Took the draws off to head to Siurana tomorrow, will be back for this one!

Got all the beta this time

Linked into the first rest, shitty clip if you're a weakboi

Linked almost into the deadpoint then made some good progress on the upper headwall

EOD!! What a line!!!!!!! Gonna come back for this bad boy

Two more burns totally went backwards in process. Total punter!!!!!!

Fell at flakes. Wasted too much gas down low. Pulled on and went to the top.

1st burn was ok got to the crux the 2 hangs to anchors. Def gonna work this to get some lumpy fitness.

Draws up for my first tufa climbing ever.scared at first but actually really really fun, like slabbing on side pulls!!!

[Tried/Hang Dog]

Warm-up burn

High point, fell off one move from the final rest to the easy end last day with no send booo!

Last ditch effort but was wayyy to tired for the pitch move.

Warm-up play.. Everything felt good!

It was time to give it everything... Screamed my way through the bread slice and got past the crux. I was so nervous, I forgot my beta and only made it 4 more moves... It should have been finished off... brain fart...

Couldn't see the holds so peeled off at the top hahaha

With some extra knee bar beta off Lucy, I was able to rest before the crux and after.. pretty good go, worked out some more foot beta and finally went to the top without sitting.

Second day on shit fest! Couldn't pull through the crux... so i changed my beta and was still freaking out at the top because i couldn't relax into the rest.

New beta didn't work so well so changed it back, tweaking the feet and took the fall from the top yeow... see how we go after a rest day...

So today my goal was to link both cruxes and maybe climb to the anchors.. big call considering I sat on pretty much every bolt last time. Matt Pascoe has given me some coaching and has advised that I sit at the first first knee bar rest and then climb gracias fina to the top before clean before attempting any red point burns. So first go sat at the knee bar rest, went for it and managed to link 3/4 of the crux I was super happy. Worked the top section but still felt really reach.

Again sat at the knee bar rest. This time fell off the last move of the crux yeow.. progress... found better beta for the top and worked it into my brain... still have not taken that whipper.. so run out to the top... also found a few more knee bars

Just another pocket fumble. A trend is forming. Pulled on and went o the top. Changed sequence.