Ascents in Pince Sans Rire

Logbook from back in the day reads "pumpy"

(w qd)

(w qd)

(w qd) Oh boy another Rodellar king line!

Wow one of the best layback steep crack climbs

Pumpy, had to think quite hard for the sequence got pumped silly

Matt told Lucy and I to get on this so we did! Ahh the crux was so cool the top slab is so scary when you're pumped silly! Just bolt to bolted to just get a feel of the full on power endurance steepness..

After all the talk about how run out this was I was quite scared to get on it. It was totally fine I even took a 8m whipper yeowww.. Figured out all the moves and enjoyed the continuous pumpy tufa climbing

Thought I would get pumped silly but managed to rest most of the way up it Right knee bar heaven. First of the grade for the trip. PSYCHED!!!

Wow flash attempt got through the crux and fell at the pumpy last section yeow so good.. felt really tired so freaked out at the top >

Fell on the last move of the crux. Super nice dinner plate holds and mini tufas all the way up. So fun!

1 week ago I had several goes at both cruxes, took a huge whipper, made lots of girly whimpers and got so scared.. Today I got through everything first shot, sitting at every bolt but hey pulled the moves now the decision to commit to this project or not...?

Putting up the draws I gave it everything... at the top I was 2 moves from the anchors and pumped silly. I went to move my left hand and it just got caught in a finger lock... wee whipper!!! figured out the moves at the top so I wouldn't freak out again.

Core felt tired but managed to pull it off and didn't need to rest at the top.. yay

So today my goal was to link both cruxes and maybe climb to the anchors.. big call considering I sat on pretty much every bolt last time. Matt Pascoe has given me some coaching and has advised that I sit at the first first knee bar rest and then climb gracias fina to the top before clean before attempting any red point burns. So first go sat at the knee bar rest, went for it and managed to link 3/4 of the crux I was super happy. Worked the top section but still felt really reach.

Again sat at the knee bar rest. This time fell off the last move of the crux yeow.. progress... found better beta for the top and worked it into my brain... still have not taken that whipper.. so run out to the top... also found a few more knee bars

Second day on shit fest! Couldn't pull through the crux... so i changed my beta and was still freaking out at the top because i couldn't relax into the rest.

New beta didn't work so well so changed it back, tweaking the feet and took the fall from the top yeow... see how we go after a rest day...

Couldn't see the holds so peeled off at the top hahaha

Awesome full on roof section and huge jugs.. mm jugs

Weird location for anchors.. otherwise good climbing.

With some extra knee bar beta off Lucy, I was able to rest before the crux and after.. pretty good go, worked out some more foot beta and finally went to the top without sitting.

Gave it a burn, fell off before the rest because my hand slipped. Got back on all shaky but managed to get to through 1/3 of the crux...

Got a high point, nearly got to the semi rest flake before the red point crux. Then got from the start of the crux to the last quick draw before peeling hahaha... so close to one sit....

Warm up Sent... best send in the last week LOL

Warm-up play.. Everything felt good!

Did everything right through the first crux. Can't say the same for the red point crux. Grabbed the bread slice, then couldn't move .. Yeow high point!