Routes as trad in Spain

Great wall climb where the hardest comes first. Running just left of the mega-classic Barbarroig, this is more sustained and its crux is more awkward. That said, the rock is clean, photogenic and superb. Fully fixed, most parties will want a med size cam or nut to protect a mild runout from pitch 1 bolt 2 to 3.

Great introductory route to the area, featuring perfect limestone face climbing with jugholds, the occasional frictiony slab and the exciting top moverlap. Completely fixed with bolts, pins and loopholes. This route is the easiest in the Missamantdell crag.

Supposedly the easiest route to the summit.

Bolted comfortable belays. Descend by walking down the hiking path from the summit.

Stays in the shade the most part of the day. Upper pitches get some sun in the afternoon.

Extensive description and topo on fjalejandre.blogspot.com

Incorrect pitch lengths, longest pitch 55m, so double rope required for abseiling.

Over 50 m.

https://www.elplafon.es/w/articulos/rabada-navarro-al-fire-en-riglos/

• 15 cintas, friends, microfriends, fisureros y bagas
• Primeros largos comunes con la "Galletas". Ultimo largo común con la Normal a la Mallafré.
• Descenso por la vía Normal

• 12 cintas, 6/8 clavos, friends, microfriends, fisureros y bagas
• Abierta sin expansiones. Poco Repetida
• Descenso hacia el Este, rápel de 35 metros desde una sabina

• 10 cintas, friends, microfriends, fisureros y bagas
• Algún clavo en la vía. Sepultada por las vías contiguas con chapas muy próximas
• Descenso hacia el Este, rápel de 35m desde una sabina

• Una linea de buriles marcan los primeros metros de la vía.
• Difícil hoy en día continuar su trazado por la proximidad a otras vías equipadas posteriormente
• Descenso hacia el Este, rápel de 35 metros desde una sabina

• "Imposible" de seguir por la cantidad de seguros y cruces con otras vías
• Descenso hacia el Este, rápel de 35 metros desde una sabina

• Sepultada por la Exocet, únicamente se dejó un clavo y un buril que aun están.

• Descenso por la vía "Normal a la Aguja Roja"

http://guaravertical.blogspot.com/2019/09/mango-del-cuchillofisura-de-la-una-230.html

While many of the pitches, and usually the crux sections will have bolts (some old), pegs/pitons, or threads pre-placed, this is not a sport climb (in its current -- 2022 -- condtion). A light rack will be required, unless one is comfortable doing run-outs of 15+ meters at 4 level climbing. Also, a few belays are happier with a supplemental piece or two -- rather than on a pair of old, rusty, 1/4" bolts.

1. 3 45m. Start at the steps, opposite the stone booth. Climb up past a visible bolt, rightwards initially, then trending left, to a belay at the start of the netting.

2. 4 40m. Straight up the face, to the ridge, then belay where it levels out to a nice flat ledge.

3. 2 50m. Climb up the ridge following the occasional bolt for direction finding, then up and right following the trampled ground to belay below and left of a small left-facing corner a few meters up. One bolt belay (2022), possible gear supplement.

4. 4+ 45m. Up and right towards the corner, then up the corner a couple meters until it is easy to step right around the corner onto the face. Follow the crack system up the face then traverse right a few meters to a good stance.

5. 5+ 35m. Step right from the belay into a slightly left-leaning smooth groove, and up this to belay at a good stance.

6. 4+ 20m. Climb the wall left of the belay (past a bolt) for about 10m, pass a nice two-bolt belay on a decent stance, and angle up and right on the slab, until you can traverse (thread, bolt) to a sloping ledge with two old bolts and an old (but fat) piton for belay -- possibly supplement with gear in the horizontal above.

7. 1. 36m Continuing traversing right from the anchor, until you step around a corner (lose sight of belay), below a groove. Climb up the groove past a bolt a few meters up, then as you exit the groove, angle up and right past a few bolts to a rappel anchor.

The belay stance at the end of pitch 6 is a bit awful -- if you are willing to build a gear belay, possibly re-arrange the last few pitches:

1. 5+ 45m. As above, but continue past the belay up the wall, and stop at the two-bolt belay about 10m further on.

2. 4+ 15m. Start left of belay, climb up and right on the slab, until you can traverse right; continue past the (old) bolts of the pitch 6 belay until the traverse ends, and build an anchor (gear, slung horn) at the base of the groove.

3. 4 31m. As before...

Descent: rappel on 2 50m ropes. There is a "terrace" descent/walk-off possible; it is hard to find, and involves significant exposed (100m falls) scrambling.

Material: 12 cintas exprés, fisureros, friends

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mascarat-22534/sylphara-21355

This is one of the longest climbs in the Costa Blanca area.

Topo

A more direct alternative to the start of the Espolôn Central route.

The final climb to the top of the mountain.

There are bolts but quite spaced, especially over the cave, hence bring a light rack up to medium size of friends.

Obvious crack on the far left of the crag.

Topo en panoramicas360.net y enlavertical.com

Material: Mejor llevar unos empotradores y algún friend por los alejes.

details see http://topatras.en.eresmas.com/Esayacata.htm

up the chimney, first pitch bolted

P1, P3, P7, P8 same as Via Valencianos. P2 (6a+) is a bolted sport pitch.

Topo en editorialanaya.blogspot.com

Easiest line, starting at the shortest side of the rock spire (south east corner).

1. 30 m (4) Follow some pitons to the tree on the ledge halfway up the wall (slings for rappel).
2. 25 m (4) Follow crack (left) or chimney (straight up) to slab and anchors. Summit register is somewhat hidden. Helmet recommended. (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

at east-side right of Via Normal.

1. 20 m (5) follow bolts leading slightly to the right to anchors
2. 20 m (6a) traverse left to crack in corner (2 pitons) that leads to tree on ledge (anchor of Via Normal);
3. 20 m (5) traverse ledge to the right, follow chimney and slabs to the top. Small set of friends and rocks needed. Helmet recommended.

follow two old looking bolts in south-east side leaning right to first anchor of Via M. Small set of friends and rocks needed.

1. 30 m (6b+ (5+ A1 obl.)) start in central East face at short blank and dark-looking overhanging section (6b+ or easy aid) over 2 glue-in bolts to ledge. Follow slab (2 bolts), left around to corner to left leaning crack (bolt), juggy overhang to anchor of Via Normal.
2. 30 m (6b+ (5+ obl.)) pitch: keep right to blank slab (3 bolts, can be bypassed by using chimney behind tree) to easier terrain to the summit.

Small set of friends, rocks and slings needed. Helmet recommended.

(taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

north-east corner (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

2 Parts: 1°: 7 pitches - 265m (III to V) - Easy part, totaly equiped. 2°: 8 pitches - 285m (V+, Ao (6c max)) - Wonderful vertical crag - totaly equiped.

Material : 16 quickdraws, 1 step rope 60 m

http://escalatroncs.wordpress.com/2011/05/11/ues-espero-orenetes-espluvins/

Gran esquina obvia visible desde la carretera. Aseguradores atornillados, algunos tornillos en el medio.

Obvious big corner visible from the road. Belays bolted, some bolts in between.

Picture first ascent..

East Arete. P2 5 bolts, P3 1 bolt. First ascent with less bolts, 3 bolts were installed later.

Grado 4 mayormente más fácil. Probablemente ascensos prehistóricos. Todos los aseguramientos se atornillaron. 2,5-3 horas. Memoriza la ruta, ¡también es la ruta del rappel!

Aproximación: Desde el aparcamiento de la carretera (memorial de los damnificados del incendio forestal de 1986) avanzar 200m por la carretera en dirección San Sebastián hasta un punto de interrupción a la derecha en el terraplén. Desde allí, continúe por un camino estrecho a través de un bosque de matorrales hasta las escaleras estrechas hechas por el hombre visibles desde la calle y abruptamente sobre esta hasta una plataforma artificial (depósito de mochilas, punto de conexión para escalar).

Ruta: Desde la carretera sobre la cresta hasta la escalera artificial visible desde la carretera. Cruza la escalera hasta una repisa y avanza hacia la esquina grande. Esta esquina (cerrojo), al final a la izquierda para hacer rappel. Pared inclinada, esquina y pared fácil de anular. Muro de losa izquierda a repisa (anillo). Cruce a la izquierda y en la esquina grande sobre las repisas para dar la vuelta y de izquierda a la esquina. Esto y al final hacia la derecha hasta la cima. (Traducción de la descripción de la ruta en alemán)

Libro de la cumbre: desde la cumbre, baja en dirección al monumento al fuego del bosque, el libro está escondido en un cantero.

Grade 4 mostly easier. Probably prehistoric ascents. All belays bolted. 2.5-3 hours. Memorize the route, it is also the abseil route!

Approach: From the parking on the road (memorial for the victims of the forest fire of 1986) go 200m on the road in the direction of San Sebastián to an interruption point on the right at the embankment. From there continue on a narrow path through bush forest to the narrow, man-made stairs visible from the street and steeply over this to an artificial platform (rucksack depot, attachment point for climbing).

Route: From the road over the ridge to the artificial staircase visible from the road. Cross the staircase to a ledge and traverse right upwards to the big corner. This corner (bolt), at the end left to abseil bolt. Leaning wall, corner and easy wall to ring. Left slabby wall to ledge (ring). Traverse left and in big corner over ledges to ring and left to corner. This and at the end rightwards to the top. (Translation from german route description)

Summit book: From the summit climb down in direction of the forrest fire memorial, the book is hidden at a stoneman.

Blog. Blog. Blog and topos.

5a or 4c/A1

2 aseguramientos atornillados, importantes tornillos durante los lanzamientos. Memoriza bien la ruta, ¡también es la ruta del rappel!

2 bolted belays, important bolts during the pitches. Memorize the route good, it is also the abseil route!

Blog. Blog.

Gear:

Friends 0 to 2, nuts

From the saddle, follow system of left-leading cracks to chimney that leadsx to summit. Warning! Some of the blocks are loose!

2 first pitches are bolted, then 4 pitches non bolted

no gear, no rappel...

http://luichy-lanochedelloro2.blogspot.de/2009/01/sierra-de-sis-estricnina.html