Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b+ Hard | ★ Berbechin Fibrao | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nasty move after 2nd bolt. Easy thereafter.
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7a Hard | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ard in the sun. Cool moves. Techy
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Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | |||||
Real happy with this onsight especially compared to the 7a+ before hand, this felt much harder nice way to end the day
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Thu 29th Feb 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | |||||
Much cooler today, but I had to climb until the crux draw was at my feet to clip because I couldn't let go.
Did the crux the fingerlock way instead of going out left, which was probably what causes my clipping problems higher up. Good times
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Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | |||||
Spicy slabbin. The only thing keeping me on was the distance between me and the draw below me,
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7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora — 2 attempts | 35m | |||||
Didn't get my foot high enough in the crux and couldn't reach the finger lock. Very hot in the sun but keen to come back.
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6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | |||||
Lovely warm up
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6a | ★ Goldfinger | 20m | |||||
Beta retrieval
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6c | ★★ Volta I Volta | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Pasos de abajo finos y de la 3 a la 5 chapa está el apreté, lo demás es V.
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ La esencia | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice, really small crimps, it's all about balance and trusting your feet, not powerful.
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6a Hard | Gear on ★★ Sóc un primavera | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice. A couple of tricky moves, one in the middle, and then a thin crack at the end
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Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | |||||
What a journey to arrive here. Never took a train with 4 hour delay due to an emergency, never missed a flight, never got stuck in an elevator. Somehow managed all of that within 24 hours while travelling here. As a result climbing my first route was hard on the head, proving once again that climbing is as much a mental game as a physical.
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Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b | ★★ Tan San Fot | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6b+ in the new guidebook. Traverse was the hardest bit and getting up after the jug. 5 metre run outs between bolts after that, but it’s Siurana style. Very cool
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b S | Gear on ★★ Records Oblidats | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pas fi de regletes per la meitat, després més fàcil i un últim pas vora la reunió.
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5+ Hard | ★ Unknown6 | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Delicate move around the middle, not so obvious
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6a | Gear on ★ Ets un primavera | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky move around the beginning
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Fri 8th Dec 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
cool route with some harder sections. but fits into atmosphere of the crag
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6a | ★ Goldfinger | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
technical movement, all in the feet. bet I would find it way scarier on lead
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Wed 6th Dec 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | |||||
Pumpy run out climbing on some polish holds and the heartbreaker right at the end when you’re the most pump before reaching the anchors
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6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | |||||
Layback climbing and a crux in the middle. Pull hard on some weird holds.
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6a | ★ Goldfinger | 20m | |||||
Tricky and lots of stemming with no holds. Quite run out from first to second bolt with tricky sequences.
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Wed 22nd Nov 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena - with Petr Kadlec | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite polished but that can be expected since around are mostly harder routes. It was still a nice route.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b | ★★ El Menjapindula — 3 attempts | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a great route!
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora - with Simmo, Will Monks | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very good all the way to the top. Read the crux wrong down the bottom then climbed through without too much fuss.
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Mon 6th Nov 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7c ~7b+ | ★★★ Noia Nom - with NH, Tanja | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unsure about the grade. Would be my first 7c but went down too quickly
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandrágora | 35m | |||||
35m smooth Siuranian climbing.. Felt like hours passed. I was in trance. Violent wind gusts wanted to sweep me off, some soft rain fell, but you don't want to let go of this beautiful route. Thanks Kiki. (tried it years ago)
Soft |
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu - with Marion Lemetayer | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice flake climbing! A bit dodgy after the end of the flake, crux move is right after the ledge...
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Thu 26th Oct 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | |||||
I couldn't touch this one (getting into the groove). So, I think it's a sandbag!
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ Easy | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bit of beta from Liam made all the difference. Make sure to do the last move for the full tick
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Directa al record | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I am assuming this is La esencia from the Siurana guidebook. Technical climb with precise footwork
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6a+ | ★★ Exceso de pegoland | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good problem, but last two moves might feel reachy
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6a | ★ Ets un primavera - with kurgelis | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Assuming this is the route Primavera sound from the Siurana guidebook
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5+ | ★ Unknown6 - with kurgelis | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Presumably this is the route Tactile as per Siurana guidebook
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
5+ | ★ Unknown6 - with Rūta | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
This is probably Tactile from the Siurana guidebook
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | |||||
Punted off on the crux above the flake pillar thing, smallish crimp, a couple of not quite jugs, with some weird movement :-(
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Tue 14th Mar 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ ~7c | ★★★ Papagora | 33m, 12 | |||||
Much harder moves then it’s neighbour
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7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best at the grade I’ve climbed in Spain.
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Tue 21st Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b | ★★ Penitenciagite | 20m | |||||
Very nice technical route
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6c | ★★ Volta I Volta - with rew | 22m, 7 | |||||
Last climb of the trip. Got big eyes, forgot that it had rather powerful moves for the first few draws. But, its been so good to revisit this place - I haven't achieved all the things I'd hoped for, but it's still been a great time, I can see how I've grown, and have lessons to takeaway for next time!
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Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora - with rew | 35m | |||||
Did all the moves, very cool and varied route, with a tricky finish. There's not really a stopper move, its about finding an efficient sequence and pump management more than anything, I think. Some of the feet are a bit polished lower down, but manageable.
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena - with rew | 30m, 10 | |||||
Got this done! Felt scary and committing when I've tried it previously in 2018 and in December, but it was actually pretty ok today! Two goes today: 1x dogging up it with the clip stick, worked out all the sequences again and importantly the rests, then calmed the nerves and sent the next go. As is my usual strategy, I found a crimpy 7-move way to avoid a long reach, hehe. [~5]
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Fri 10th Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved this so much
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Sun 5th Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a | ★★ Sóc un primavera - with rew | 22m, 11 | |||||
In approach shoes.
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a |
★★ Horny attack P1
- with
rew
1
6a
22
| 22m, 7 | |||||
Maybe the easiest 6a in Siurana? At least of the ones I've tried.
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Wed 1st Feb 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora - with rew | 35m | |||||
Already had draws on, bailed at the crux (between fourth and fifth), then watched the owner of said draws send. Tried again, putting draws on, and bailed at the crux again... wasn't feeling psyched.
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Fri 20th Jan 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
💎
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
5c+ |
★ Espero Primavera P1
1
5c+
22
| 22m, 12 | Average | ||||
First pitch is more 6a than V+
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Sun 25th Dec 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The crux is too hard…
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Mon 12th Dec 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a | ★ Espero Primavera - with rew | 32m, 12 | |||||
Done as a single pitch. Nice climbing, but a little scary when your toes are frozen!
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7a | ★★★ Remena Nena - with rew | 30m, 10 | |||||
Lol, this is still 1) a cool technical climb; and 2) has a scary groove layback
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Wed 7th Dec 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a | ★ Goldfinger - with rew | 20m | |||||
Tricky, moves were not obvious.
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Tue 6th Dec 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu - with rew | 25m, 9 | |||||
Thought I had done this before, but it wasn't logged, so I'm going to call it an OS.
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Berbechin Fibrao | 22m, 9 | Average | ||||
One mingen move
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7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Whippidy whip
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b | ★★ El Menjapindula - with azaro | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My max is 7C+ so I was really surprised that I send it.
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Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | |||||
Extremly polished
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Technical climbing, with the meters the difficulty rises
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second try. Pojd mi. I would never say it is possible to climb it in one piece.
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Thu 14th Apr 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Berbechin Fibrao | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Boulder after the 2nd bolt.
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Tue 29th Mar 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b | ★★ Pelandruska | 22m | |||||
Nice techy climbing with a crux in the beginning
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6c 6a | ★★ Horny attack L1 (Horny attack) | 22m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The 6a part is very nice technical on the feet, the extension adds a nice boulder with good holds to it
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Thu 10th Feb 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Menudo pasito después de la repisa... En la línea de los 6a de Siurana, bien duro.
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Wed 9th Feb 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6c | ★★ Volta I Volta | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
El paso a la regleta se me hace largo y tengo que inventarme una variante con un agujero lejos a la izqda que, cuando consigo sacar, ya estoy demasiado cansada. Muy bonita, los pasos difíciles están concentrados hasta la 4a chapa, después aguantar en buenas manos.
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | |||||
We tried… possible send but not today
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Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | |||||
After a few days came back and send it first time, classic!
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Tue 11th Jan 2022 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | |||||
My god that’s what 7as in Siurana are like .. 😰😛
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Fri 5th Nov 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Valtònyc (Name?) | 30m | |||||
Ok. Good with one more route on this sector!
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Fri 29th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Papagora - with Tanja | 33m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
#3go
Two bouldery cruxes. Harder than Mandragora especially if you climb straight along the bolts on the first crux.
Great route!
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Thu 28th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b | ★★ Pelandruska | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Not warm-up suitable
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7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | |||||
Very nice. Messed up the crimp-section high up
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Wed 27th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora - with Tanja | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lovely route! The most endurance-based route that I have done so far.
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Wed 20th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora - with Anna | 35m | |||||
Super route! a sustained 40 metres. Put up draws then one send go but got pumped out after just 3 draws in hahah.. Dialed in the beginning.. Then sent on next attempt. 3rd
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Sat 16th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6c |
★★ Horny attack L1 (Horny attack)
1
6a
22m
2
6c
10m
| 32m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Powerful boulder with bad feet up high. Hard for the grade
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Thu 14th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Marieta de l‘ ull viu | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I don't think climbing in that grade can get much better
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Wed 13th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena - with Tobias, Tobias Bahmer | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely stunning! Non-stop ambitious vertical wall climbing with 3 harder moves. One of the best I've done, 5*.
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6b | ★★ Tan San Fot - with Tobias, Tobias Bahmer | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wrong way first.
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Fri 8th Oct 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b 6b S | ★★ Records Oblidats - with Alex | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
(w/o qd)
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6c 6a | ★★ Horny attack L1 (Horny attack) - with Alex | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
(w/o qd)
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Sat 19th Jun 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6a |
★★ Horny attack L1 (Horny attack P1)
- with
Lea
1
6a
22m
| 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only did the first pitch.
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Thu 20th May 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b | ★★ Penitenciagite | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Used my feet better around the crux traverse.
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6c | ★★ Volta I Volta | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route up the crack.
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6a | ★ Espero Primavera - with Ingrid visser | 32m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Rather tough for a warm up route
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Thu 4th Mar 2021 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First 2x7b+ flash day.
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Thu 31st Dec 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b | ★★★ El angulo muerto (El ángulo muerto) | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great way to round up 2020 with such a beautiful climb! Time for a proper rest now:)
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Tue 22nd Dec 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Liposuccio (Liposucció) | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Forgot to refill my chalk which lead to intense battling in the hot sun... juggy approach with a runout crimpy crux high up:)
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Mon 21st Dec 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★ Se m'apaga la baldufa | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fun steep juggy toe hook part in the middle:)
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7a+ | ★★★ Llet de boja | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Perfect fresh rock right before the sun hit the wall:) long journey through awesome sharp rock!
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7b+ | ★★★ Papagora | 33m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Easier than the right one in total but with a harder crux which I read completely wrong at first and climbing down a dynamic move isn't easy at all;) classic!
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Thu 10th Dec 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
6b 6b S | ★★ Records Oblidats | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
mini ñapas. Con el frio no sientes que estás tocando
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Fri 6th Mar 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Noia Nom | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The guidebook says soft for 7b+!? Such a nice crimpy line:)
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7b+ | ★★★ Sayonara Baby | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Pretty hard to read this overhanging corner but so much fun! But dear wind please stop;)
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Thu 5th Mar 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow soo good! Bouldery;)
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7b | ★★ El Menjapindula | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Another gem in the massive wind;)
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Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7c | Hijos de la Pedri | 30m | |||||
Hard Slab.
Nearly onsighted. |
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7c+ 7b+ | ★★ Liposuccio | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun climbing to a nasty crimp crux up high. So run out it's hard to work. Bailed off the permanent mallion.
At least two grades harder than Mandragora. |
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7c 7b+ | ★★★ Papagora | 33m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Odd hard section where you climb 2m around then high step.
Much harder than Mandragora but not as good. One fall. |
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7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really cool endurance climbing!
I got sucked into the wrong holds following all the chalk on the onsight. If you step left it's more like a tricky 7b. |
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8a 7c+ | Invierno Nuclear | 30m | |||||
Very chipped but one of the better routes in this sector.
Tried on and off, did with one fall. |
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Mon 2nd Dec 2019 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora (Mandràgora) | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Vest way to finish ghis Spain trip with such a beautiful route through this red streak:))
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Fri 22nd Nov 2019 - Siurana | |||||||
Espero Primavera | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Remena Nena | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best
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