Supersteep route. Feels a lot harder than the 6b+ on the left.
The rock quality in the overhang is not very good. It's crumbly at times and I can imagine that some of the crimps now won't be there anymore in a year.
The biggest jug of the overhang was loose and I kicked it free on my way down. The good news is that there is still a good hold behind where the good jug was. In any case, the belayer should wear a helmet.
The route has plenty of big holds - except for one section in the overhang where you have to pull hard and make a committingdynamic move to reach the third bolt.
The first half is a technical and almost vertical slab. On the second half the wall angle is a more reclined and it's a relaxed climb to the top.
Beta: On the technical slab below I made the mistake of going up and right instead of heading left for the obvious big and chalked up ledge. I thought it would be too far left. However, there is a nice sidepull that brings you back into the center. My variant on the right felt quite a bit harder and I inwardly cursed the bolters for assigning such a "low" grade. If you keep to the left, then 6a+ is probably alright.
There was not much magnesia on the route and I found this quite hard to read. The movements are really nice and I'm quite happy we did the route.
While climbing the 5 on the left, Agus kicked down the big loose block which sat below the overhang. While I don't think it makes a difference for the grade of the route, I do think it deserves 6a+.
- with
Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa
The rock quality in the overhang is not very good. It's crumbly at times and I can imagine that some of the crimps now won't be there anymore in a year.
The biggest jug of the overhang was loose and I kicked it free on my way down. The good news is that there is still a good hold behind where the good jug was. In any case, the belayer should wear a helmet.