Ascents in Sweden by Shaun Hurrell

Felt easy for the grade for me but then again I like high-foot rockovers! Nice line, if a bit 'bitty'.

Gahhh nearly my first 7b onsight, but messed it up at the anchor. Went on second go once I'd found a better hold. Fun route

Very cool. Bolt to bolt first go to work out the moves and extended a couple of QDs at the crux to improve the clipping. Final crux move seemed impossible until I found the right beta. Great sequences. Sent it on first RP attempt. Either I’m getting stronger or this is a bit soft for the grade. Anchor is two bolts, but only one has a ring.

Maybe I was a bit tired after climbing Nattsudd, but even so this is sandbagged - harder than 7a. Amazing though!

Two attempts when pumped at the end of the session with wet shoes... I think it'll be awesome when it goes though!

Fun to repeat this. The traverse out of the water is really interesting. Thought the top-out would be easier! Dropped my brush in the water:(

Actually easier than the route to the right, just a bit blind.

Four repetitions tonight

Two repetitions tonight

Dream line. Worked bolt to bolt on Top Rope Solo, which was a bit restrictive but I got all the straight-forward, crimpy lower moves. The finish seems insane...

First RP attempt today and fell literally at the anchor because I messed up the feet haha. Make sure you memorise the final moves!

Climbed after worming and sending Tabu so was a bit pumped and misread crux sequence. Crux is such very good when you know the sequence.

It went! Despite the heat and lack of finger skin. Crimped hard and just went for it. Second proper attempt this session (after falling at the anchor on first attempt!) so five or six goes overall. Pretty chuffed with that. Top route with great crimps. My fourth or fifth 7b!

Always a great route and finger warm up. Climbed direct up the crack instead of weaving out to the left easier variation.

Nice little bicep warm up

Great technical crux on the bulge and fun easy slab after. Previously done as top rope solo then today I seconded it as we climbed out the top.

Häftigt! The mantle wasn’t as bad as the guide book makes out, nice heelhook move. The cut loose on the overhang was cool too!

I think this is either missing a hold near the beginning or a massive sandbag...

Really nice slab sequence and beautiful smooth rock with a great sunset. Second go.

What the hell, either I was too far left or this is a massive sandbag.

So good! Great warm up. Repetition

Have sent before, but today it went again on the second go. Such a cool crux.

Lovely route

Really cool route, I actually prefer to Icones. Cool onsight

Awesome! Got it on fourth go. Great sequences and pumpy at the top. I didn’t use the taboo hold of course…

Worked the top moves on top rope solo. Dream line for the future.

Another Buster classic! Did on top rope solo. Really cool fingery crux with a two-finger pocket..!

Gave it a good brushing and worked the moves on top rope. Good quality compact rock. The final moves before the shelf aren't intuitive but great when you work them out. Then was ready for the DWS send. Hard to grade but definitely harder than Scylla. So maybe 6c+/7a

Second go this session. Enjoyable fingery crux sequence. Hard for the grade.

Utah, USA feeling with smooth walls and big blocks and slots. Fun!

Second go. Very nice crux sequence.

Very beta specific but fun route despite the length! 6th go over 2 sessions (first a long time ago).

2nd go

In March I managed this 3rd go, but today the crux felt very hard in the heat and sun (but I was also quite tired). Hard 7a+ at least. Watch out as there seems to be some loose rock in the top, easier section.

Did all the big moves, except for the thin crux which feels crazy hard.

The grading of these two routes is wrong. The crux is the bulge in the beginning so both arguably are the same grade. The end of Blå Lotus is harder than the ending to the left, but still only 6a+ in my opinion.

Barefoot fun mid-swim. Nice sequence.

Beautiful holds!

Hard for the grade! Cool fingery sequence

Repeated 5 or 6 times in the session using the rope to abseil down. So fun (and pumpy).

Working on top rope. Will bring a brush next time.

Working with top rope solo. Lower moves very hard. Top out is nice. Not sure the route 'Escape' actually exists as the crux is in the beginning.