Lovöklippan Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Fredrik Eckardt Hayley Ho

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Lovöklippan 26 in Crag
- 1.1. Sjöväggen 11 in Sector
- 1.2. Kalahariväggen 13 in Area
- 1.3. S:t Bar Moore - Klippan 2 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Lovöklippan 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 59.330261, 17.800356

access issues

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: https://access.klatterforbundet.se/

inherited from Sweden

approach

Drive to Vattenverket via Norrbyvägen (from north east. Not from the south via stömdalsvägen that google potentially suggests). Park on the left sid of Norrbyvägen just before the yellow houses. Walk last bit of Norrbyvägen and follow the trail north of vattenverket towards the water. Follow the trail to the top of the cliff. From the top, walk the long ramp back (south-east) until you reach a ledge just above the water. Follow this ledge back to the crag (north-east). First you reach 'Kalahariväggen' and then 'Sjöväggen'.

1.1. Sjöväggen 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Att angöra en borrbult	5	Sport
2	★ Vattenlinjen Adventure traverse over the water. Rather spaced between the bolts.	FR:6b	Sport
3	Oproportionerliga Ulf Starts with half of 'Vattenlinjen' and turn straight up in the crack.	FR:6b	Mixed trad 4
4	Sea Wind Line	FR:6c	Sport
5	★ Kapten Grogg	FR:6b+	Sport
6	Dagens lunch	FR:6a	Sport
7	Året runt	FR:6a	Sport
8	Klätterapan	FR:6a	Sport
9	My arse, your view	FR:6c	Sport
10	Micke Mus	FR:6c	Sport
11	Jag vågar	3	Sport

1.2. Kalahariväggen 13 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Humle	FR:6a	Sport
2	Dumle	FR:6a	Sport
3	Våga	FR:6a	Sport
4	Vågat	FR:6b	Sport
5	Vågen	FR:6a+	Sport
6	Vågens bristfälliga vandel	FR:6a+	Sport
7	Hokusai	FR:6b	Sport
8	Vågdans	FR:6c	Sport
9	Onda rossa	FR:6b	Sport
10	Tsunami		Sport
11	Meditativ rytm	FR:6b	Sport
12	Vågbrytare	FR:6a+	Trad
13	En man som räknar grodor	5+	Sport

1.3. S:t Bar Moore - Klippan 2 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Lilla Bar Moore	3+	Trad
2		S:t Bar Moore	5+	Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
3		Jag vågar	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
3+		Lilla Bar Moore	Trad	1.3. S:t Bar Moore - Klippan
5		Att angöra en borrbult	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
5+		En man som räknar grodor	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		S:t Bar Moore	Sport	1.3. S:t Bar Moore - Klippan
6a		Dagens lunch	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		Klätterapan	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		Året runt	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		Dumle	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Humle	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Våga	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
6a+		Vågbrytare	Trad	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Vågen	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Vågens bristfälliga vandel	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
6b		Oproportionerliga Ulf	Mixed trad 4	1.1. Sjöväggen
	★	Vattenlinjen	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		Hokusai	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Meditativ rytm	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Onda rossa	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
		Vågat	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
6b+	★	Kapten Grogg	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
6c		Micke Mus	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		My arse, your view	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		Sea Wind Line	Sport	1.1. Sjöväggen
		Vågdans	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen
?		Tsunami	Sport	1.2. Kalahariväggen