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Predikstolen

Seasonality

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Summary

Minor crag close to Uppsala. 15 m high and partly overhanging. Mixed sport and trad routes.

Access issues

Forbidden to light fires. Natural Reserve.

https://access.klatterforbundet.se/predikstolen/

Approach

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989

FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989

Bolted anchor

FA: Rikard Hedman, 1991

FA: Rikard Hedman & Johan Luhr, 1989

Shares start and first bolt with "Maginotlinjen".

FA: Rikard Hedman, 1992

Very thin wall climbing. Note that a crimp has broken off between bolt 2 and 3, possibly making the line harder.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 1991

Warning Rock: Loose rock near second bolt

Shares the first half with "Stöldförsök", then follows a crack up to the left.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 1992

The classic route of the crag. First half is well-protected in the crack.

FA: Mats Höglind, 1989

Follows "Stöldförsök" until it diverts to the right, around the arête and up on the slab.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1982

Starts in "Stöldförsök", traverses under the roof and goes up in the dihedral. A common variant is to start 2 m to the right and climb it as a pure sport route. Bolted anchor.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

Originally started in "Stöldförsök" and climbed straight out over the nose. Now however it is most common to start to the right (as drawn) and climb it as a pure sport route. A common and more evenly hard variant is to climb up the dihedral of "Högmässan" and then out on the arête.

FA: Rikard Hedman, 1991

Rarely climbed, nevertheless offers exciting climbing over big features. Some guides state it starts in "Tidelipomm" although according to the first ascensionist himself it starts in the groove to the right and follows the crack up under the roof. The anchor of "Vår games" can be used for lowering.

FA: Åke Danielsson, 1984

Follow the crack all the way up to the right, through the small roof and up on the slab. The anchor of "Vår games" can be used for lowering.

FA: 2014

Previously a trad or mixed route, now fully bolted.

FA: Håkan Eriksson & Erik Terenius, 1990

One of the most popular routes of the crag. It's tempting to escape to the right on the shelf but following the arête as much as possible up to the top slab is a nicer climb.

Previously a trad route, now fully bolted.

FA: Åke Danielsson, 1984

Around the corner down to the right of the main wall.

FA: Joakim Neander, 1982

Above the main wall.

Thin wall climbing, no places for protection nor bolts, considered a highball boulder. Previously a 6c+ sport route.

FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989

Is it a highball or a trad route? In either case not well-pretected, so unless you are on top rope, bring a crash pad. Route grade 7a (SWE 7+).

FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989

Traverse the wall from right to left and finish with "Great wall".

Along the right arête. No places for protection nor bolts, considered a highball boulder. Route grade around 6b (SWE 6).

FA: Rikard Hedman & Johan Luhr, 1989

50 m to the left (south west) of the main wall.

On Pyramidväggen, 50 m left of the main wall. Follow the right side of the arete.

FA: Henrik Bolander & Ola Oredsson, 1992

On Pyramidväggen, 50 m left of the main wall. Slab project from the 90s.

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Andreas Andersson

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9789163195952

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing around Lake Malaren near Stockholm in mid-east Sweden, covering hundreds of both bolted and trad routes of all grades, all within around an hour and a half’s drive from Stockholm.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 15 May
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