Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
4+ | Lars Orup
| Ålandsklippan | |||
6- | På tå häv
A variant is to finish straight up. FA: Rick McGregor, 1979 | 9m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
4 | Vicktåria
| Ålandsklippan | |||
FR:5a | ★★ Dusty Slingfield
Har ankare ovanför kanten. FA: Rebecca Svanberg, Bronwen Holloway & Anders Malmgren, 5 Jun 2020 | Ålandsklippan | |||
5+ | Pommern
Har ankare ovanför kanten | Ålandsklippan | |||
5 | ★★ Fissure Grund
FA: Eric Grund, 1977 | 9m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
Lätta hörnet
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | ||||
4+ | Kakelugnen
Intressand dieder. Har ankare ovanför kanten. | Ålandsklippan | |||
4 | Balansnisse
Originally climbed with feet in the crack, tricky with the balance. FA: Carl-Göran Brask, 1976 | 10m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
FR:7a | Ålands Ocean wall
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
4+ | Arbetets döttrar
| 6m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
4 | Vanliga hörnet
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
5+ | Playback
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
4 | Diedern
| 7m | Predikstolen | ||
4 | ★★ Norrbottens järn
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
4+ | ★★ Kalhygget
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
4+ | Direkta Kalhygget
Sällan repeterad | Ålandsklippan | |||
3+ | Premiär på flera plan
Obvious large crack with small ledges on the left hand of the crag. Can be partially wet even days after dry weather, but still possible to climb dry. Bolted anchor next to a pine, accessible from the top. Placements for nuts available, though not abundant for a beginners route. FA: Henrik Gezelius, 12 May 2021 | 7m | Uvhällsklacken | ||
4+ | Kalgustf
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
5 | Korta fingersprickan
There are two bolts for building an anchor on a ledge above the route, but they are 5 m away and with no rings for lowering off. | 7m | Uvhällsklacken | ||
FR:6a+ | Schick super
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
FR:6b+ | Schick super original
FA: Åke Danielsson, 1984 | Ålandsklippan | |||
FR:6b+ | ★ Dagens rätt
Bolted anchor FA: Rikard Hedman, 1991 | 14m | Predikstolen | ||
5 | ★ Fingrarnas herre
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
7- | ★ Rockfall
Slightly overhanging crack with some cool holds and sequences. Fairly well-protected with cams and nuts. A top rope anchor can be set up from above. | 12m | Hagbyholmsklippan | ||
7+ | ★★ Stöldförsök
The classic route of the crag. First half is well-protected in the crack. FA: Mats Höglind, 1989 | 18m, 4 | Predikstolen | ||
7+ | Alla dårars arête
Follows "Stöldförsök" until it diverts to the right, around the arête and up on the slab. FA: Rick McGregor, 1982 | 18m, 3 | Predikstolen | ||
FR:7a | April en till
Shares the first half with "Stöldförsök", then follows a crack up to the left. FA: Rikard Hedman, 1992 | 18m, 4 | Predikstolen | ||
{SWE} 7- | ★ Naturapoteket
| 11m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6 | ★★ Högmässan
Starts in "Stöldförsök", traverses under the roof and goes up in the dihedral. A common variant is to start 2 m to the right and climb it as a pure sport route. Bolted anchor. FA: Rick McGregor, 1979 | 18m, 3 | Predikstolen | ||
6- | Granen flyger
Trad with bolted anchor. Anchor not seen from below. Previously known as Ja jävlar, when made on top rope. Watch out with the lower block! Definitely not recommended to place protection behind it. FA: Anders Malmgren, 2021 | Uvhällsklacken | |||
FR:6b+ | Sista dansen
Har ankare FA: Rick McGregor, 1982 | Ålandsklippan | |||
6 | Quatorze-dix-huit
Follow the crack all the way up to the right, through the small roof and up on the slab. The anchor of "Vår games" can be used for lowering. FA: 2014 | 14m | Predikstolen | ||
6 | ★ Flera häv
Rarely climbed, nevertheless offers exciting climbing over big features. Some guides state it starts in "Tidelipomm" although according to the first ascensionist himself it starts in the groove to the right and follows the crack up under the roof. The anchor of "Vår games" can be used for lowering. FA: Åke Danielsson, 1984 | 14m | Predikstolen | ||
FR:4c | Molntuss
Trad with bolted anchor. FA is possibly made long ago, we are happy to update if you have info. /Ukk FA: Anders Malmgren, 2020 | 10m | Uvhällsklacken | ||
3 | Lätta arêten
Lätta arêten | Dalkarlskärret | |||
4- | Skolsprickan
FA: Åke Danielsson, 1979 | Ålandsklippan | |||
4 | Tant Bruno
| 7m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
5 | Mariehamnskex
| Ålandsklippan | |||
4- | Semper
| 9m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
5 | Kvarnbygget
| Ålandsklippan | |||
4 | Talangjakten
FA: Carl-Göran Brask, 1976 | 9m | Dalkarlskärret | ||
5 | Silvia
| Ålandsklippan | |||
Top rope | |||||
5+ | Manteln
| Ålandsklippan | |||
Sport | |||||
6b+ | ★ Besökarna
| 13m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:5c | ★★★ Speakers Corner
FA: 1977 | Ålandsklippan | |||
6c+ | ★ Sök och fin
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6a | Vårbal
FA: Henrik Bolander, 1992 FA: Ingrid Elmin, 1992 | Ålandsklippan | |||
7b+ | Barracuda
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6b | Wild World
FA: Henrik Bolander, 1992 FA: Ingrid Elmin, 1992 | Ålandsklippan | |||
7b+ | Viper
don't climb into "Huggormen" | 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:5c | Disraeli
| Ålandsklippan | |||
FR:6a+ | Myrans hemvist
(Tidigare topprepsled: Kakelkanten) FA: Henrik Bolander & Ingrid Elmin, 1992 | 3 | Ålandsklippan | ||
7a | ★★ Huggormen
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6a | Pang Pang
Up through the roof and to the right. FA: Andreas Andersson, 2017 | Ålandsklippan | |||
6c | ★ Bulletproof
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
5+ | Wall Street
Har ankare | 3 | Ålandsklippan | ||
7b+ | ★ Studenten
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6c+ | ★★ Apor på Åkern
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6b | ★ Twist
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:7a | Sista chansen
Left side of the arete. FA: Mats Höglind, 1987 | Ålandsklippan | |||
6c+ | ★ Vindöga
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:7a+ | Lätt och lagom
Har ankare | 2 | Ålandsklippan | ||
6c | ★ Premiären
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
7a | ★ Seven Plus
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6c+ | ★ El Ninjo
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
5 | ★★★ Curry Melin
Har ankare. Tidigare mixled. Numera helbultad | Ålandsklippan | |||
7a+ | ★★ Stampad Berguv
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6a+ | Spiderpig
Ends at the anchor of "Twist" | 20m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6b | 50-åringen
Ny sportled bultad under Uppsala klätterklubbs 50-års jubileumsår. Bultat av Andreas Andersson, FA:öppet projekt | Ålandsklippan | |||
6b+ | ★ Mapumbe
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6a | Konsten att lida pin
| 13m | Fjärdhundra | ||
{FR} 6b | ★ Den dynamiska 50-åringen
Direktinsteg till 50-åringen som startar mellan stenen och väggen. Skulle behöva en bult under hyllkanten, men det går att förklippa första bulten på 50-åringen ifrån stenen. FA: Peter Nytting & Adrian Djerf, 8 Jun | Ålandsklippan | |||
5a | Oborsten
Previously a trad route. Anchor not visible from the ground. | 12m | Fjärdhundra | ||
5c | ★ Örsan kickers
FA: 22 Jul 2017 | 12m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6b | ★ Snedtrampet
| 12m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6b | La Via del Chato
| 12m | Fjärdhundra | ||
6b | ★ El culo electrico
| 12m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6c | ★ Gillette
Har ankare | Ålandsklippan | |||
FR:6b+ | ★ Spatiodynamik
FA: Andreas Andersson, 2018 | 9m, 3 | Uvhällsklacken | ||
FR:6a | Tunna sprickan
Previously a trad route, now fully bolted. FA: Åke Danielsson, 1984 | 12m, 5 | Predikstolen | ||
FR:6b+ | ★★ Maginotlinjen
FA: Rikard Hedman & Johan Luhr, 1989 | 15m, 7 | Predikstolen | ||
FR:6c | To bolt or not to be
FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989 | 14m, 5 | Predikstolen | ||
6a | ★ Korpen flyger
| 12m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6a+ | Upp!
| 8m, 2 | Uvhällsklacken | ||
FR:6c | Grabbarna från stan
On Pyramidväggen, 50 m left of the main wall. Follow the right side of the arete. FA: Henrik Bolander & Ola Oredsson, 1992 | 4 | Predikstolen | ||
FR:6b | Vår games
Previously a trad or mixed route, now fully bolted. FA: Håkan Eriksson & Erik Terenius, 1990 | 14m, 6 | Predikstolen | ||
FR:6b+ | Azincourt
FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989 | 14m, 5 | Predikstolen | ||
5c | Hövdingen
| 13m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:5a | Heby moonshine
FA: Andreas Andersson, 2018 | 10m, 3 | Uvhällsklacken | ||
Project
On Pyramidväggen, 50 m left of the main wall. Slab project from the 90s. | 5 | Predikstolen | |||
FR:7c | Vårtid
Very thin wall climbing. Note that a crimp has broken off between bolt 2 and 3, possibly making the line harder. FA: Rikard Hedman, 1991 | 17m, 8 | Predikstolen | ||
6b+ | Bultmannen
Bouldery start. | 10m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:4c | Illusionen av rymd
Was initially called Internationalen when made on top rope. FA: Andreas Andersson, 2018 | 11m, 3 | Uvhällsklacken | ||
FR:7b | Fritid
Shares start and first bolt with "Maginotlinjen". FA: Rikard Hedman, 1992 | 16m, 8 | Predikstolen | ||
6c | ★★ Spider Dance
| 14m | Fjärdhundra | ||
FR:6c | ★ Sträcket
Har ankare. Ombultad 2020 | 4 | Ålandsklippan | ||
FR:4a | Den stigande kroppen
Starts with a climb to a ledge. FA: Andreas Andersson, 2017 | 12m, 3 | Uvhällsklacken | ||
FR:7b+ | Håll fast
FA: Rikard Hedman, 1992 | 2 | Ålandsklippan | ||
FR:7c+ | Atlantic
Har ankare ovanför kanten. Glest bultad. FA: Henrik Bolander, 1993 | Ålandsklippan |