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1 4b
2 6a

description

For crack lovers! Can be climbed with trad gear only. Two times friends 0.5 - 3.

The first pitch leads you to a comfortable belay platform where the crack start. From there the crack heads to right and upwards. At the point where the crack goes straight up distance between the bolts gets bigger. No prob if you are a skilled crack climber Otherwise it's possible to improve protection. This second pitch is very long 35-40m and you need endurance to send it.

Last renewal of protection in 1999.

To descent you need at least a 70m single rope. There is a semi hanging belay after the traverse in the second pitch that can be reached with a 70m rope. Two 50-60m half ropes would be ideal.

Route history

1977Route setter: H. Kamm & H. Wild

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 47.28105, 9.40814

Grade citation

4b,6a Assigned grade
4b,6a

ethic

Sport climbs are very well protected but the historic multi pitch routes are sometime strange bolted and you have to take long run outs. Generally it is a good advice to bring some gear to improve protection where necessary.

New routes should be discussed with local authorities and the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) before hand. Especially if routes may distract animals and destroy vegetation.

inherited from Alpstein

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Attempt 1

Comment keywords

hard crack fist good

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): W. Küng

Date: 2022

Author(s): T. Wälti

Date: 2023

Amden / Churfirsten / Sarganserland / Alvier / Liechtenstein: über 60 Klettergebiete – vom Klettergarten bis zur wilden Alpinroute

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 26 May
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