Photos
Help

Routes in Kirchlispitzen South

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:

-

Other filters:

  • Aspect
  • Steepness
  • Rock type
  • Descent
  • Condition
  • Vegetation
  • Style
  • Walk in angle
  • Water access
  • Walk in time
  • Legality
  • Weather
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
6+ A1 Via Justus

Beautiful, rewarding climb in solid rock, following a natural line. Lower part is dominated by steep face climbing; Upper part mainly at water grooves. Only the easy passages are slightly covered by scree. All necessary bolts exist but experience in placing trad gear is necessary to reduce run-outs.

The route is dedicated to the second son of Bettina and Christof Drechsel who was born on July 6 1995.

FA: P. Henrichs & P. Betten, 1995

Trad 350m, 10 Kirchlispitzen South
4a Südpfeiler
1 1 80m
2 4a 30m
3 2c 40m
4 3c 40m
5 2a 40m
6 2a 30m
7 2a 30m
8 1a 25m
9 2c 35m
10 2a 40m
11 3c 30m
12 3b 30m

FA: W. Flaig & F. Zorell, 1922

Trad 450m, 13 Kirchlispitzen South
4c Südwand
1 2a 30m
2 2c 45m
3 2a 40m
4 4b 40m
5 3a 40m
6 3c 40m
7 4a 45m
8 2a 20m
9 4c 45m
10 2a 25m
11 4b 45m
12 3a 25m

FA: J. Moosbrugger, P. Sardelic, H. Grabner & H. Heinzle, 1979

Trad 440m, 12 Kirchlispitzen South
7a Thombu
1 4a 45m
2 4b 45m
3 6a 45m
4 3c 50m
5 2a 15m
6 4a 45m
7 7a 30m
8 6a+ 45m
9 4b 45m
10 3a 40m

FA: W. Amann & M. Schallert, 1982

Trad 410m, 10 Kirchlispitzen South
6a+ Via Joos
1 3c 40m
2 3c 20m
3 4c 35m
4 2a 35m
5 4b 35m
6 2a 30m
7 4a 30m
8 1a 30m
9 3c 30m
10 3a 35m
11 5a 30m
12 6a+ 40m
13 3a 25m
14 6a+ 35m

FA: V. Eggenberger & L. Roffler, 1973

Trad 450m, 14 Kirchlispitzen South
6b Nussknacker
1 4a 40m
2 3c 20m
3 5b 50m
4 5b 50m
5 5c 40m
6 6b 25m
7 4b 20m
8 5a 30m
9 4a 25m
10 6a+ 40m
11 3a 25m
12 6a+ 35m

FA: W. Amann & E. Sonderegger, 1986

Trad 400m, 12 Kirchlispitzen South
5a Alte Führe

FA: T. Hiebeler & M. Niedermann, 1957

Trad Kirchlispitzen South
5b Linksdrall
1 3a 35m
2 4a 30m
3 3a 25m
4 5b 45m
5 4b 45m
6 3a 40m
7 3c 40m
8 5a 40m
9 5bA0 45m
10 5b 40m
11 4c 35m

FA: V. Eggenberger & U. Hew, 1973

Trad 420m, 11 Kirchlispitzen South
5a Halbi Füüfi
1 3a 35m
2 2a 20m
3 4b 25m
4 5a 30m
5 4a 40m
6 3c 40m
7 3a 35m
8 3b 35m
9 3c 30m

FA: W. Amann & L. Dünser, 1983

Trad 290m, 9 Kirchlispitzen South
{UIAA} 7+ Haldejohli
1 5 40m
2 7- 35m
3 5+ 40m
4 5 40m
5 5+ 45m
6 6+ 35m
7 4 20m
8 1 40m
9 4 35m
10 6+ 35m
11 7+ 30m
12 2 50m

Der Einstieg befindet sich direkt unter der Scharte zwischen 5./6. Kirchlispitze und ist angeschrieben.

Details und topo auf http://www.walter-hoelzler.de

FA: Eggenberger, Roffler & Tschirky, 1981

Maint: Rast & Tischhauser, 2019

Mixed trad 450m, 12, 12 Kirchlispitzen South
Sport
7a Sabra
1 6b+ 25m
2 6c+ 25m
3 5c+ 50m
4 6a+ 40m
5 6c+ 40m
6 6a 50m
7 6c+ 45m
8 7a 45m
Gear:
50m-rope, 12 Express (min. 5 verlängerbare), Cams 0.2-0.75 (evtl. 1 und 2), Keile

FA: Wyser, Morel & Tischhauser, 1991

Sport 320m, 8, 12 Kirchlispitzen South
7a+ Vitaminstation
1 6a+ 30m
2 6c 35m
3 6c 30m
4 6b+ 30m
5 6b+ 30m
6 6a 30m
7 6a+ 40m
8 6b 35m
9 7a+ 30m
10 6a+ 15m

FA: Marcel Dettling & Kathrin Dettling, 9 Sep 2023

Sport 310m, 10 Kirchlispitzen South
8b+ Silbergeier
1 8b 40m
2 7c+ 20m
3 8a+ 25m
4 7a+ 15m
5 8b+ 20m
6 7c+ 40m

One of the most difficult multi pitch climbs in a alpine setting of the world.

Description by Pietro dal Pra via Planetmountain.com

Description by Beat Kammerlander

Repetions

Set: Martin Scheel, 1993

FFA: Beat Kammerlander, 1994

Sport 160m, 6 Kirchlispitzen South
8b Antihydral
1 7c 40m
2 8a+ 30m
3 7b+ 15m
4 7c 15m
5 7a+ 15m
6 8b 20m

FA: R. Mathis & Co., 1994

FFA: H. Berger, 2006

Sport 140m, 6 Kirchlispitzen South
7c Hannibals Alptraum
1 7a+ 40m
2 7b+ 40m
3 7b+ 40m
4 7c 35m
5 7a+ 25m
6 4a 30m
7 4c 35m

FA: M. Scheel & R. Bösch, 1986

Sport 250m, 7 Kirchlispitzen South
{UIAA} 10+ Unendliche Geschichte
1 7+
2 8-
3 9-
4 9+
5 10
6 10+
7 7
8 8+
9 7
10 9-
11 8

http://beatkammerlander.com/highlights/1991-unendliche-geschichte/

Free Repeat Ascents

FA: Heli Scheichl, Peter Mathis & Beat Kammerlander, 1990

FFA: Beat Kammerlander, 1991

Sport 400m Kirchlispitzen South
8c WoGü

Bolted in remembrance of Wolfgang Güllich †. Description on beatkammerlander.com

FA: Beat Kammerlander, 1996

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2008

Sport 350m, 9 Kirchlispitzen South
{UIAA} 9+ Via Acacia
1 7+ 40m
2 9 35m
3 9- 20m
4 8- 55m
5 9- 30m
6 9- 30m
7 7+ 40m
8 8 35m
9 9+ 40m

Set: Martin Scheel, 1998

Sport 330m, 9 Kirchlispitzen South
{UIAA} 9- Zauberlehrling
1 4- 30m
2 7 30m
3 8 40m
4 7+ 40m
5 6- 35m
6 6- 10m
7 9- 30m
8 7- 25m
Sport 240m, 8 Kirchlispitzen South
{UIAA} 8- Via Pardutz
Sport 450m, 13 Kirchlispitzen South
8c+ Déjà
1 6a+
2 6c+
3 6b+
4 7c
5 8c+
6 7c+
7 6b+
8 6b+
9 7c+
10 7a
11 8a+
12 6b+

Set: Michi Wyser & Andres Lietha, 1992

FFA: Fabian Buhl, 27 Nov 2019

Sport 12 Kirchlispitzen South
7c Prix Garantie
1 7c 35m
2 6c 30m
3 7a 25m
4 7a+ 35m
5 6c 20m
6 6c 30m
7 6b 40m

6c+ obl.

Topo available on Marcel Dettling's blog.

FA: Marcel Dettling, 2016

FFA: Marcel Dettling & Kathrin Dettling, 11 Sep 2016

Sport 220m, 7, 9 Kirchlispitzen South
7a Kamala
1 6c 35m
2 7a 30m
3 6b 25m
4 35m
5 6a+ 35m
6 6b+ 40m
7 6b 50m
8 6b+ 30m
9 6a+ 20m

6b obl.

Topo available for download.

FFA: Marcel Dettling & Kathrin Dettling, 2010

Sport 300m, 9 Kirchlispitzen South
{UIAA} 8- Galadriel
1 7-
2 7
3 7+
4 6-
5 7-
6 7
7 7+
8 8-
9 7-
10 7+
11 5+

Fantastic route which is very well protected. There is no need to carry trad gear with you. This is one of the most frequently climbed lines in Rätikon and with good reason.

Descent:
Abseil down over the route. For the two upper pitches you take another way to get down: Take the top anchor and follow the obvious ramp facing westwards, passing a giant characteristic hole (50m). You will get to another anchor from where you get back to the route (25m).

FA: V. Luck, B. Bardill, M. Luginbühl & A. Lietha, 1992

FA: V. Luck, B. Bardill, M. Luginbühl & A. Lietha, 1994

Sport 420m, 11 Kirchlispitzen South
7c+ El Viaje
1 7a+
2 6b+
3 6a
4 3a
5 6c
6 7a
7 7c+
8 7a
9 7a+
10 7b+
11 6a+
Sport 11 Kirchlispitzen South
7a Auenland
1 6a
2 6a+
3 6c+
4 5c+
5 7a
6 6c+
7 6b
8 6b
9 6c+
10 6c+

links von "Galadriel", Einstieg bei einer „gebohrten“ Sanduhr-Schlinge

Sport 10 Kirchlispitzen South

Showing all 26 routes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文