Nodes in Aiguilles Dorées

A chain of several peaks between the plateau du Trient and glacier de Saleina featuring great alpine climbing in solid granite.

Gear: Single rack of cams and nuts. The first pitch requires very large cams for protection, min. BD C4 #6.

South (south-west) face below an unnamed peak on the southern arête leading to Aiguille Sans Nom in the Aiguilles Dorées massif.

The route starts on the left of a rocky couloir (rockfall danger!). There is a quite large, flat stone nearby that can be used for orientation on the approach.

Pitch 6: There is one difficult but short slightly overhanging boulder problem. Usually there's a sling installed on a bolt for aid.

5c obl.

Gear: Set of cams (sizes BD C4 0.3 - 2) and optionally nuts

Descent: Rappel the route.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Gear: single rack of cams

Gear: Set of nuts and cams (sizes BD C4 0.3-1)

Descent: Rappel the route.

Most western peak of the Aiguilles Doreés. Features mixed trad/sport climbing at over 3000 m altitude on the south and west face.

6b obl.

Pitches 7 and 8 shared with Eole danza per noi.

Gear: Nuts and Cams (sizes BD C4 0.3 - 3, double up on 0.5 - 1)

Descent: Rappel via Eole danza per noi

6b obl.

Gear: Single Rack and a set of nuts, additionally 2x size 3 1x size 3.5.

Descent: Rappel via the route Eole danza per noi

6a obl.

Descent: Rappel the route

Material: 2 x 50m ropes, set of nuts, mid-sized cams (BD C4 0.75-2), 10 quickdraws

6a obl.

Gear: BD C3 0-2, BD C4 0.3-2, double up on 0.4, 0.75, and 1.

Descent: Rappel along the route. At belay 6 until 1 the rappel goes right of the rote. Last rappel again on route.

6a obl.

Descent: Rappel the route or walk off

Material: 2 x 50m ropes, set of nuts, mid-sized cams (BD C4 0.75-2), 10 quickdraws

5c obl.

Descent: Rappel via Les Chants du Midi

Material: 2 x 50m ropes, set of nuts, mid-sized cams (BD C4 0.75-2), 10 quickdraws