Ascents in Wägital having Beta

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Showing all 36 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Crag	Quality	Climber	Date
Trad
	6a	★★ Westwändli (Westwändli Linkup Echo der Zeit) 1 5a 200m 2 3a 3 2a 4 4b 5 5c+ 6 4b 7 3c 8 6a linkup Echo der Zeit	Mixed trad 200m, 29	Bockmattli		Marcel	Sat 23rd Oct 2021
Ausstieg über Echo der Zeit (letzte SL)
	5c+	★★ Westwändli - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Mixed trad 200m, 29	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Beat	Thu 26th May 2022
Sehr harte Aufwärmseillänge (definitiv mehr als 5a). Die Linie folgt den Schwachstellen der Wand. Viele Föhren und teilweise grasig. Die Schlüsselstelle ist ein paraleller Riss mit grossen (und bei uns nassen) Untergriffen. Das Highlight ist die letzte SL mit einem grossen Klemmblock.
	5a	Clean Climb Trip - with Nino 1 3 100m 2 5a	Trad 100m	Bockmattli		Dani KO	Sat 13th Jul 2019
Abbruch weil nicht genug grosse Friends... We will return!
	6a+	★★ Direkte Nordwand - with Mirko	Trad 430m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Nicky	Sat 1st May 2010
date?
	6b	★★ Andromeda - with Mirko	Trad	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Nicky	Sat 1st May 2010
date?
	6b	★★ Andromeda - with Johannes	Trad	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Axel Dahlberg	Mon 5th Sep 2016
Pretty scary without trad-gear.
	5b	★★ Alte Nordwand 1 4a 35 lead by Johnny Venga 2 5b 45 3 5b 30 lead by Johnny Venga 4 4b 40 lead by Johnny Venga 5 3b 50 6 4b 45 lead by Johnny Venga 7 4a 45 8 5b 45 lead by Johnny Venga 9 3a 30	Trad 370m	Bockmattli	★ Good	Johnny Venga	Sat 26th May 2018
Alpine style
	6c+ A1	★★★ Supertramp	Trad	Bockmattli	★★★ Classic	Müller Lukas	Mon 23rd Mar 2020
Linie nicht sofort offensichtlich, aber dann äußerst logische Linienführung, elegante plattige kletterei! Solid for the grade;)
	5c+ 6	★ Alte Nordwand - with Eli	Trad 240m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Coto	Sun 28th May 2017
Teilweise weite Hakenabstände, teilweise brüchig, unbedingt Friends mitnehmen
	5b	★★ Namenlose Kante - with Miriam 1 3c lead by Dani KO 2 4b lead by Miriam 3 4b lead by Dani KO 4 3b lead by Miriam 5 5a lead by Dani KO 6 4c lead by Miriam 7 5b lead by Dani KO 8 4c lead by Miriam 9 3c lead by Dani KO	Trad 310m	Bockmattli		Dani KO	Thu 9th Apr 2020
Klassiker
	6c+	Südwand - with Tobias Bahmer 1 6a lead by Max Kaltenbrunner 2 6c+ lead by Tobias Bahmer 3 6c lead by Max Kaltenbrunner 4 5b lead by Tobias Bahmer 5 5c+ lead by Max Kaltenbrunner 6 4c lead by Tobias Bahmer	Trad	Bockmattli		Max Kaltenbrunner	Mon 24th Aug 2020
What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!
	5b	★★★ Südgrat - with Micha Gurtner, jereleiderohnethecragtyp, Luca Nann, Daniela Andreoli	Trad 360m	Chöpfenberg	★★★ Classic	Martin Gebs	Sat 12th Jun 2021
Muy bonito!
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg - with Jo 1 4b 2 5c+ 3 6b 4 4c 5 6a 6 6a 7 5b 8 5c 9 5c 10 5c+ 11 6a	Trad 360m	Bockmattli	★ Good	mike	Sat 18th Sep 2021
The first pitch should be considered part of the approach. It's one of the ugliest, wettest, dirtiest and sketchiest pieces of c*** that I ever climbed. 50m ropes did not suffice to reach the first belay. There is a wet fixed rope that helps through the upper part. Even with that fixed rope, leading this pitch is quite sketchy as there is no viable possibility for protection. Oh yeah: extend your quickdraws! Don't follow the bolts to the right - just take the first two, belay is in the cave. Nice and very well protected crux. Pitch traverses to the left with a few moves around 6a between the bolts. Easy chimney and arête Steep, well protected lay-backing. Sustained but short pitch One well protected crux move. Very narrow chimney, then crumbly and easy arête. Annoying with backpack. The remaining four pitches more or less follow the obvious dihedral. #8 is not very steep. The rock in these pitches is layered diagonally, which may make some moves non-obvious, difficult and/or awkward. Probably one of the nicest pitches. Very solid rock, jugs. Beautiful red lichen on the rocks. I had to lead this after my partner was not confident to do that one move above a small ledge where the first bolt is placed. At the top you must not follow the steep dihedral on the left, but you'll have to go right (no more pro) through easier terrain to reach the final belay. My partner really struggled with this pitch. Especially one move near the top on a good undercling with only tiny footholds is tough to do - and has to be done above the last piton(!) and just before reaching the next bolt. All in all the route has a few very nice pitches, some traverses, lots of dihedrals. Bolts may be quite spaced, we had to use slings and BD Camalot 0.3 and 0.4 several times. We did not bring larger cams, they could have been useful in the last couple of pitches. Route-finding is not always easy - the week before a rope-team got lost and needed to be rescued! So be sure to double-check the topo!
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg - with Julian 1 4b 60m lead by Julian 2 5c+ 10m lead by Torsten 3 6b 35m lead by Julian 4 4c 40m lead by Torsten 5 6a 20m lead by Julian 6 6a 30m lead by Torsten 7 5b 35m lead by Julian 8 5c 40m lead by Torsten 9 5c 35m lead by Torsten 10 5c+ 20m lead by Torsten 11 6a 30m lead by Torsten	Trad 360m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Torsten	Sat 18th Sep 2021
ambitionierte alpin abgesicherte Route, in der schwierigen 6b-Passage stecken genug Haken zum Nullen, die anderen SL sind mit weiten Hakenabständen versehen, egal wie schwer, dh. definitiv KK&Friends mitnehmen!
	6a	★★ Nordwestwand - with Patrick Zumsteg	Trad 260m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Beat	Fri 20th May 2022
Feiner Einsteig. Dann viele Verschneidungen (4x 5b bis 5c+). Querung 6a SL und direkt darauffolgende 5b sehr schön. Oben dann einfacher auf dem Grat.
	6a+	★★★ Westpfeiler - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Trad 240m	Bockmattli	★★★ Classic	Beat	Sun 29th May 2022
Toller Kamin und glatte Verschneidung in der Schlüsselseillänge! Teilweise kombinierbar mit den Längen der Südwand (6c+).
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg - with Annabarbara Beilstein 1 4b 60 Trad 2 5c+ 10 Trad 3 6b 35 Trad 4 4c 40 Trad 5 6a 20 Trad 6 6a 30 Trad	Trad 200m	Bockmattli	★★★ Classic	Beat	Sat 28th May 2022
SL Zustieg über nasses Gras (bei Nässe sehr ungemütlich) SL rechts und dann hoch in die Höhle, nicht dran vorbei! SL Super Querung aus der Höhle! Athletisch an Henkeln! SL Einfache Aufschwünge & 6. SL zusammen nehmen: Komplexere vertikale Verschneidungskletterei ab 7. SL leider in die Namenlose Kante gewechselt, da obere Verscheneidung nass. Dafür am 6. Stand (in Höhle) nach links queren.
	6+	★★ Alte Nordwand - with Julian 1 4 35m lead by Julian 2 6+ 15m lead by Torsten 3 5- 30m lead by Torsten 4 5 30m lead by Julian 5 4 40m lead by Torsten 6 2 10m lead by Julian 7 3 50m lead by Julian 8 4- 45m lead by Torsten 9 3+ 45m lead by Julian 10 4 45m lead by Torsten 11 3 20m lead by Julian	Trad 370m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Torsten	Sun 19th Jun 2022
Supertour in nicht immer festem Fels mit 2 sehr schönen Abschlussseillängen - Klettergenuss ohne dass die Route durchgebohrt ist.
	5c+	★★ Ostpfeiler - with Micha Gurtner, Nicole, Simon 1 5c 50m Trad lead by Torsten 2 4c 50m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 3 5c 50m Trad lead by Torsten Expressen stark verlängern - sonst sehr starker Seilzug 4 5a 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 5 4a 50m Trad lead by Torsten 6 4c 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 7 5b 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 8 5c+ 30m Trad lead by Torsten 9 4c 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 10 4c 45m Trad lead by Torsten 11 4b 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 12 4a 50m Trad lead by Torsten	Trad 550m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Torsten	Sun 11th Jun 2023
Wiederholungsbedürftiges alpines Abenteuer! 06:30 Start am Brügglerparkplatz 07:30 Einstieg in Route 16:00 Ausstieg am Gipfel dann Abstieg über den Südgrat (wird definitiv zeitlich unterschätzt!) und Gross Chälen 21:00 zurück am Brügglerparkplatz
	5a	★★ Namenlose Kante - with MSC	Trad 310m	Bockmattli		Herbert	Wed 19th Jul 2023
6 Seillänge speckig, etwas moralisch
	7a+ Hard	Trubadur	Trad	Bockmattli		Erich Ruetsche	Wed 12th Jul 2023
I did the first ascent many years ago and was very satisfied that the climb is in good shape and grading stood the test of time. There is are a few 3 pitches that go straight before the travers pitch.
	6 Easy	★ Alte Nordwand - with Maurice 1 4 40 Second lead by Maurice 2 5 30 Trad lead by Tim 3 5 35 Second lead by Maurice 4 6 30 Trad lead by Tim 5 6 33 Second lead by Maurice 6 5+ 33 Trad lead by Tim 7 5+ 40 Trad lead by Tim	Trad 240m	Bockmattli	Average	Tim	Wed 23rd Aug 2023
Auf der Website des SAC beschrieben mit „Bohrhaken in regelmäßigen Abständen“ - das ist ein bisschen Quatsch. Teilweise lange run-outs und nicht immer offensichtlich Routenführung (Stand am Ende der der 4. SL ziemlich versteckt). Viele Seillängen am Anfang und Ende von Gras durchzogen. Zwischendurch aber immer wieder einige Passagen fantastischer Kletterei an Wasserrinnen. Nur für abenteuerhungrige KletterInnen mit starkem Kopf sind Friends fakultativ.
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg 1 4b 60m Second 2 5c+ 10m Trad 3 6b 35m Second 4 4c 40m Trad 5 6a 20m Second 6 6a 30m Trad 7 5b 35m Second 8 5c 40m Trad 9 5c 35m Second 10 5c+ 20m Trad 11 6a 30m Second	Trad 360m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Anna	Sun 1st Oct 2023
Unten eher brüchig, oben sehr guter Fels
Sport
	5c+	★★ Meriba (Meriba P1) - with Miriam 1 5c+ lead by Miriam	Sport 160m, 12	Bockmattli		Dani KO	Sat 26th Jun 2021
Route war noch Nass. Abbruch nach 1. SL
	5c+	★★ Meriba (Meriba P1) - with Dani KO 1 5c+ lead by Miriam	Sport 160m, 12	Bockmattli		Miriam	Sat 26th Jun 2021
Route noch nass, daher Abseilen nach 1. Seillänge
	5c+ Easy	★★ Meriba - with S 1 5c+ Sport 2 5c+ Sport 3 5c Sport 4 5c Sport 5 4b Second	Sport 160m, 12	Bockmattli	★ Good	mike	Sun 10th Sep 2023
Nice "rest day"-climb. Rope drag may be an issue, sometimes it's better to belay on top of the previous pitch than getting to the bolted belay. Getting to first bolt is not super straight forward. LatertThin and well protected crux. A bit easier. Watch for rope drag when approaching next belay. Easier than advertised, but you need to watch out for loose rock here or there. Nice pitch with two thin cruxes. Felt harder than pitches 2 and 3, similar to first. Hardest part was getting your shoes dry from the mud at the start of the pitch. Grassy exit. Slab with jugs, then arete, then bushwhack. Probably better to belay at a tree than to fight through the bushes to get to the bolts.
	6b	★★ Jenelana - with Johannes 1 6b lead by Me 2 6a+ lead by Me 4 5	Sport	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Axel Dahlberg	Mon 5th Sep 2016
Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!
	6b	★★ Jenelana - with Axel Dahlberg 1 6b lead by Me 2 6a+ lead by Me 3 4	Sport	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Johannes	Sun 4th Sep 2016
Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!
	6c	★★ Aufwärmtour - with Anika	Sport	Innerthal Staumauer	★★ Very Good	Nicky	Sun 2nd Jul 2017
Wet conditions
	7a+	★★★ Chaos im Weltall - with Tobias Bahmer	Sport	Innerthal Staumauer	★★★ Classic	Max Kaltenbrunner	Sun 23rd Aug 2020
Super nice climbing, with an extremely long dynamic move in the upper crux. Careful, a few holds are not really solid!
	6b	Kalahari - with Tobias Bahmer	Sport	Innerthal Staumauer	★ Good	Max Kaltenbrunner	Sun 23rd Aug 2020
Very powerful and hard for the grade. Messed up the overhang sequence.
	7a+	★★ unknown - with Tobias Bahmer	Sport	Innerthal Staumauer	★★ Very Good	Max Kaltenbrunner	Sun 23rd Aug 2020
Very powerful boulder style without any rest. Very hard and slopy right before the anchor.
	7b+	Aufwärmtour Verlängerung - with Beatrice, Rainer	Sport	Innerthal Staumauer		Helge	Sun 15th Aug 2021
Streng und staubig.
	6b	★★★ Echo der Zeit - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Sport 3200m	Bockmattli	★★★ Mega Classic	Beat	Fri 27th May 2022
Wahnsinnig schöne Route! Die ersten beiden SL zusammennehmen (1. ist die schwierigste der ganzen MSL), direkt hoch bis zur grossen Föhre. In der 4. (bzw. 3. wenn die ersten zwei zsm) nicht links sondern rechts halten! Sonst kommt der Frick am Strick mit 7a+. Diese SL ist genial mit langen Zügen an Henkeln. 5. SL ist ein pumpiger Riss und die 6. eine (bei uns nasse) Verschneidung. Vom Level und Stil gut mit “Al Kappone” kombinierbar - beim Abstieg läuft man direkt an deren Einstieg.
	6a+	★★★ Al Koppone - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Sport 65m	Bockmattli	★★★ Classic	Beat	Thu 26th May 2022
SL Platte SL Riss mit etwas wenig Bolts SL lange Züge an Henkeln Sehr gut mit “Echo der Zeit” kompinierbar. Danach noch auf den Turm aufsteigen und den Abstieg vorher anschauen (nicht ganz trivial).
	6b	★★★ Echo der Zeit - with Sophie 1 6a 30 Second lead by Sophie 2 5c 25 Sport lead by Torsten 3 5c 40 Second lead by Sophie 4 6b 40 Sport lead by Torsten 5 6b 30 Sport lead by Torsten 6 6a 40 Sport lead by Torsten falsche Linie erwischt	Sport 210m	Bockmattli	★★ Very Good	Torsten	Fri 6th Oct 2023
1.SL im Schatten, ziemlich kalt, Crux hoch antreten und durchbeissen; 4.&5.SL pumpig an Rissen und Löchern 6.SL falsche Linie erwischt, man muss der Hakenlinie gerade rauf folgen

Showing all 36 ascents.

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Ascents in Wägital having Beta

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