Ascents in Wägital having Beta

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Showing all 36 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm West
	6b	★★★ Echo der Zeit - with Sophie 1 6a 30 Second lead by Sophie 2 5c 25 Sport lead by Torsten 3 5c 40 Second lead by Sophie 4 6b 40 Sport lead by Torsten 5 6b 30 Sport lead by Torsten 6 6a 40 Sport lead by Torsten falsche Linie erwischt	Sport 210m	★★ Very Good	Torsten
1.SL im Schatten, ziemlich kalt, Crux hoch antreten und durchbeissen; 4.&5.SL pumpig an Rissen und Löchern 6.SL falsche Linie erwischt, man muss der Hakenlinie gerade rauf folgen
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg 1 4b 60m Second 2 5c+ 10m Trad 3 6b 35m Second 4 4c 40m Trad 5 6a 20m Second 6 6a 30m Trad 7 5b 35m Second 8 5c 40m Trad 9 5c 35m Second 10 5c+ 20m Trad 11 6a 30m Second	Trad 360m	★★ Very Good	Anna
Unten eher brüchig, oben sehr guter Fels
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	5c+ Easy	★★ Meriba - with S 1 5c+ Sport 2 5c+ Sport 3 5c Sport 4 5c Sport 5 4b Second	Sport 160m, 12	★ Good	mike
Nice "rest day"-climb. Rope drag may be an issue, sometimes it's better to belay on top of the previous pitch than getting to the bolted belay. Getting to first bolt is not super straight forward. LatertThin and well protected crux. A bit easier. Watch for rope drag when approaching next belay. Easier than advertised, but you need to watch out for loose rock here or there. Nice pitch with two thin cruxes. Felt harder than pitches 2 and 3, similar to first. Hardest part was getting your shoes dry from the mud at the start of the pitch. Grassy exit. Slab with jugs, then arete, then bushwhack. Probably better to belay at a tree than to fight through the bushes to get to the bolts.
Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Bockmattli
Foehrenturm
	6 Easy	★ Alte Nordwand - with Maurice 1 4 40 Second lead by Maurice 2 5 30 Trad lead by Tim 3 5 35 Second lead by Maurice 4 6 30 Trad lead by Tim 5 6 33 Second lead by Maurice 6 5+ 33 Trad lead by Tim 7 5+ 40 Trad lead by Tim	Trad 240m	Average	Tim
Auf der Website des SAC beschrieben mit „Bohrhaken in regelmäßigen Abständen“ - das ist ein bisschen Quatsch. Teilweise lange run-outs und nicht immer offensichtlich Routenführung (Stand am Ende der der 4. SL ziemlich versteckt). Viele Seillängen am Anfang und Ende von Gras durchzogen. Zwischendurch aber immer wieder einige Passagen fantastischer Kletterei an Wasserrinnen. Nur für abenteuerhungrige KletterInnen mit starkem Kopf sind Friends fakultativ.
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	5a	★★ Namenlose Kante - with MSC	Trad 310m		Herbert
6 Seillänge speckig, etwas moralisch
Wed 12th Jul 2023 - Bockmattli
Ostturm
	7a+ Hard	Trubadur	Trad		Erich Ruetsche
I did the first ascent many years ago and was very satisfied that the climb is in good shape and grading stood the test of time. There is are a few 3 pitches that go straight before the travers pitch.
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Bockmattli
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
	5c+	★★ Ostpfeiler - with Micha Gurtner, Nicole, Simon 1 5c 50m Trad lead by Torsten 2 4c 50m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 3 5c 50m Trad lead by Torsten Expressen stark verlängern - sonst sehr starker Seilzug 4 5a 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 5 4a 50m Trad lead by Torsten 6 4c 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 7 5b 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 8 5c+ 30m Trad lead by Torsten 9 4c 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 10 4c 45m Trad lead by Torsten 11 4b 45m Second lead by Micha Gurtner 12 4a 50m Trad lead by Torsten	Trad 550m	★★ Very Good	Torsten
Wiederholungsbedürftiges alpines Abenteuer! 06:30 Start am Brügglerparkplatz 07:30 Einstieg in Route 16:00 Ausstieg am Gipfel dann Abstieg über den Südgrat (wird definitiv zeitlich unterschätzt!) und Gross Chälen 21:00 zurück am Brügglerparkplatz
Sun 19th Jun 2022 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm Nord
	6+	★★ Alte Nordwand - with Julian 1 4 35m lead by Julian 2 6+ 15m lead by Torsten 3 5- 30m lead by Torsten 4 5 30m lead by Julian 5 4 40m lead by Torsten 6 2 10m lead by Julian 7 3 50m lead by Julian 8 4- 45m lead by Torsten 9 3+ 45m lead by Julian 10 4 45m lead by Torsten 11 3 20m lead by Julian	Trad 370m	★★ Very Good	Torsten
Supertour in nicht immer festem Fels mit 2 sehr schönen Abschlussseillängen - Klettergenuss ohne dass die Route durchgebohrt ist.
Sun 29th May 2022 - Bockmattli
Westpfeiler
	6a+	★★★ Westpfeiler - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Trad 240m	★★★ Classic	Beat
Toller Kamin und glatte Verschneidung in der Schlüsselseillänge! Teilweise kombinierbar mit den Längen der Südwand (6c+).
Sat 28th May 2022 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg - with Annabarbara Beilstein 1 4b 60 Trad 2 5c+ 10 Trad 3 6b 35 Trad 4 4c 40 Trad 5 6a 20 Trad 6 6a 30 Trad	Trad 200m	★★★ Classic	Beat
SL Zustieg über nasses Gras (bei Nässe sehr ungemütlich) SL rechts und dann hoch in die Höhle, nicht dran vorbei! SL Super Querung aus der Höhle! Athletisch an Henkeln! SL Einfache Aufschwünge & 6. SL zusammen nehmen: Komplexere vertikale Verschneidungskletterei ab 7. SL leider in die Namenlose Kante gewechselt, da obere Verscheneidung nass. Dafür am 6. Stand (in Höhle) nach links queren.
Fri 27th May 2022 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm West
	6b	★★★ Echo der Zeit - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Sport 3200m	★★★ Mega Classic	Beat
Wahnsinnig schöne Route! Die ersten beiden SL zusammennehmen (1. ist die schwierigste der ganzen MSL), direkt hoch bis zur grossen Föhre. In der 4. (bzw. 3. wenn die ersten zwei zsm) nicht links sondern rechts halten! Sonst kommt der Frick am Strick mit 7a+. Diese SL ist genial mit langen Zügen an Henkeln. 5. SL ist ein pumpiger Riss und die 6. eine (bei uns nasse) Verschneidung. Vom Level und Stil gut mit “Al Kappone” kombinierbar - beim Abstieg läuft man direkt an deren Einstieg.
Thu 26th May 2022 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm Sued
	6a+	★★★ Al Koppone - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Sport 65m	★★★ Classic	Beat
SL Platte SL Riss mit etwas wenig Bolts SL lange Züge an Henkeln Sehr gut mit “Echo der Zeit” kompinierbar. Danach noch auf den Turm aufsteigen und den Abstieg vorher anschauen (nicht ganz trivial).
Thu 26th May 2022 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm West
	5c+	★★ Westwändli - with Annabarbara Beilstein	Mixed trad 200m, 29	★★ Very Good	Beat
Sehr harte Aufwärmseillänge (definitiv mehr als 5a). Die Linie folgt den Schwachstellen der Wand. Viele Föhren und teilweise grasig. Die Schlüsselstelle ist ein paraleller Riss mit grossen (und bei uns nassen) Untergriffen. Das Highlight ist die letzte SL mit einem grossen Klemmblock.
Fri 20th May 2022 - Bockmattli
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
	6a	★★ Nordwestwand - with Patrick Zumsteg	Trad 260m	★★ Very Good	Beat
Feiner Einsteig. Dann viele Verschneidungen (4x 5b bis 5c+). Querung 6a SL und direkt darauffolgende 5b sehr schön. Oben dann einfacher auf dem Grat.
Sat 23rd Oct 2021 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm West
	6a	★★ Westwändli (Westwändli Linkup Echo der Zeit) 1 5a 200m 2 3a 3 2a 4 4b 5 5c+ 6 4b 7 3c 8 6a linkup Echo der Zeit	Mixed trad 200m, 29		Marcel
Ausstieg über Echo der Zeit (letzte SL)
Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg - with Julian 1 4b 60m lead by Julian 2 5c+ 10m lead by Torsten 3 6b 35m lead by Julian 4 4c 40m lead by Torsten 5 6a 20m lead by Julian 6 6a 30m lead by Torsten 7 5b 35m lead by Julian 8 5c 40m lead by Torsten 9 5c 35m lead by Torsten 10 5c+ 20m lead by Torsten 11 6a 30m lead by Torsten	Trad 360m	★★ Very Good	Torsten
ambitionierte alpin abgesicherte Route, in der schwierigen 6b-Passage stecken genug Haken zum Nullen, die anderen SL sind mit weiten Hakenabständen versehen, egal wie schwer, dh. definitiv KK&Friends mitnehmen!
	6b	★★ Höhlenweg - with Jo 1 4b 2 5c+ 3 6b 4 4c 5 6a 6 6a 7 5b 8 5c 9 5c 10 5c+ 11 6a	Trad 360m	★ Good	mike
The first pitch should be considered part of the approach. It's one of the ugliest, wettest, dirtiest and sketchiest pieces of c*** that I ever climbed. 50m ropes did not suffice to reach the first belay. There is a wet fixed rope that helps through the upper part. Even with that fixed rope, leading this pitch is quite sketchy as there is no viable possibility for protection. Oh yeah: extend your quickdraws! Don't follow the bolts to the right - just take the first two, belay is in the cave. Nice and very well protected crux. Pitch traverses to the left with a few moves around 6a between the bolts. Easy chimney and arête Steep, well protected lay-backing. Sustained but short pitch One well protected crux move. Very narrow chimney, then crumbly and easy arête. Annoying with backpack. The remaining four pitches more or less follow the obvious dihedral. #8 is not very steep. The rock in these pitches is layered diagonally, which may make some moves non-obvious, difficult and/or awkward. Probably one of the nicest pitches. Very solid rock, jugs. Beautiful red lichen on the rocks. I had to lead this after my partner was not confident to do that one move above a small ledge where the first bolt is placed. At the top you must not follow the steep dihedral on the left, but you'll have to go right (no more pro) through easier terrain to reach the final belay. My partner really struggled with this pitch. Especially one move near the top on a good undercling with only tiny footholds is tough to do - and has to be done above the last piton(!) and just before reaching the next bolt. All in all the route has a few very nice pitches, some traverses, lots of dihedrals. Bolts may be quite spaced, we had to use slings and BD Camalot 0.3 and 0.4 several times. We did not bring larger cams, they could have been useful in the last couple of pitches. Route-finding is not always easy - the week before a rope-team got lost and needed to be rescued! So be sure to double-check the topo!
Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Innerthal Staumauer
	7b+	Aufwärmtour Verlängerung - with Beatrice, Rainer	Sport		Helge
Streng und staubig.
Sat 26th Jun 2021 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	5c+	★★ Meriba (Meriba P1) - with Dani KO 1 5c+ lead by Miriam	Sport 160m, 12		Miriam
Route noch nass, daher Abseilen nach 1. Seillänge
	5c+	★★ Meriba (Meriba P1) - with Miriam 1 5c+ lead by Miriam	Sport 160m, 12		Dani KO
Route war noch Nass. Abbruch nach 1. SL
Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Chöpfenberg
	5b	★★★ Südgrat - with Micha Gurtner, jereleiderohnethecragtyp, Luca Nann, Daniela Andreoli	Trad 360m	★★★ Classic	Martin Gebs
Muy bonito!
Mon 24th Aug 2020 - Bockmattli
Westpfeiler
	6c+	Südwand - with Tobias Bahmer 1 6a lead by Max Kaltenbrunner 2 6c+ lead by Tobias Bahmer 3 6c lead by Max Kaltenbrunner 4 5b lead by Tobias Bahmer 5 5c+ lead by Max Kaltenbrunner 6 4c lead by Tobias Bahmer	Trad		Max Kaltenbrunner
What an experience. First the Route was hard to find and the 30-40min from the Bockmattlihütte given in the SAC-guide will never ever be sufficient with the long hikw and rapelling. The first 2 pitches were awesome, well bolted and went onsight, as well as the fifth pitch. Then in the third pitch suddenly there are 15m spaces with lots of loose rock in between. I tried the 6c variant and had to commit mentally as hard as never before in climbing to get to the bolt, with 12m no bolt below me an no solid possibility to place sth. After that bolt no further followed, so I had to traverse way back to the 5b and again to the 6c in order to reduce the rope drag afterwards, including several mental breakdowns. The bolting in the 5b pitches is very wide, bad possibilities to place sth as most of the rock isn't very solid and has nothing to do with the others, where it's bolted really good. Also they're graded 1960-like. Careful!
Sun 23rd Aug 2020 - Innerthal Staumauer
	7a+	★★ unknown - with Tobias Bahmer	Sport	★★ Very Good	Max Kaltenbrunner
Very powerful boulder style without any rest. Very hard and slopy right before the anchor.
	6b	Kalahari - with Tobias Bahmer	Sport	★ Good	Max Kaltenbrunner
Very powerful and hard for the grade. Messed up the overhang sequence.
	7a+	★★★ Chaos im Weltall - with Tobias Bahmer	Sport	★★★ Classic	Max Kaltenbrunner
Super nice climbing, with an extremely long dynamic move in the upper crux. Careful, a few holds are not really solid!
Thu 9th Apr 2020 - Bockmattli
Namenloser Turm
	5b	★★ Namenlose Kante - with Miriam 1 3c lead by Dani KO 2 4b lead by Miriam 3 4b lead by Dani KO 4 3b lead by Miriam 5 5a lead by Dani KO 6 4c lead by Miriam 7 5b lead by Dani KO 8 4c lead by Miriam 9 3c lead by Dani KO	Trad 310m		Dani KO
Klassiker
Mon 23rd Mar 2020 - Bockmattli
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
	6c+ A1	★★★ Supertramp	Trad	★★★ Classic	Müller Lukas
Linie nicht sofort offensichtlich, aber dann äußerst logische Linienführung, elegante plattige kletterei! Solid for the grade;)
Sat 13th Jul 2019 - Bockmattli
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
	5a	Clean Climb Trip - with Nino 1 3 100m 2 5a	Trad 100m		Dani KO
Abbruch weil nicht genug grosse Friends... We will return!
Sat 26th May 2018 - Bockmattli
Klein Bockmattliturm Nord
	5b	★★ Alte Nordwand 1 4a 35 lead by Johnny Venga 2 5b 45 3 5b 30 lead by Johnny Venga 4 4b 40 lead by Johnny Venga 5 3b 50 6 4b 45 lead by Johnny Venga 7 4a 45 8 5b 45 lead by Johnny Venga 9 3a 30	Trad 370m	★ Good	Johnny Venga
Alpine style
Sun 2nd Jul 2017 - Innerthal Staumauer
	6c	★★ Aufwärmtour - with Anika	Sport	★★ Very Good	Nicky
Wet conditions
Sun 28th May 2017 - Bockmattli
Foehrenturm
	5c+ 6	★ Alte Nordwand - with Eli	Trad 240m	★★ Very Good	Coto
Teilweise weite Hakenabstände, teilweise brüchig, unbedingt Friends mitnehmen
Mon 5th Sep 2016 - Bockmattli
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
	6b	★★ Jenelana - with Johannes 1 6b lead by Me 2 6a+ lead by Me 4 5	Sport	★★ Very Good	Axel Dahlberg
Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!
	6b	★★ Andromeda - with Johannes	Trad	★★ Very Good	Axel Dahlberg
Pretty scary without trad-gear.
Sun 4th Sep 2016 - Bockmattli
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
	6b	★★ Jenelana - with Axel Dahlberg 1 6b lead by Me 2 6a+ lead by Me 3 4	Sport	★★ Very Good	Johannes
Only did first two pitches due to time. Very nice climb!
Sat 1st May 2010 - Bockmattli
Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch
	6b	★★ Andromeda - with Mirko	Trad	★★ Very Good	Nicky
date?
Sat 1st May 2010 - Bockmattli
Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
	6a+	★★ Direkte Nordwand - with Mirko	Trad 430m	★★ Very Good	Nicky
date?

Showing all 36 ascents.

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Ascents in Wägital having Beta

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