Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bockmattli Trepsenstock | |||||
6b | Ashridge
1
6b
40m
2
5c+
25m
3
5c
15m
Rocks and Friends are needed. | 80m, 3 | |||
6b | Zum Ende der Welt
1
6b
25m
2
5c
15m
3
6a
40m
4
4a
40m
5
5b
50m
6
4a
45m
Rocks and Friends (Cams) are needed. | 220m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 5+ A0 | Nordwand | ||||
{UIAA} 5- A1 | Direkte Nordwand | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Ostkante | ||||
Bockmattli Ostturm | |||||
7c+ | Schattenspiel
1
7a
2
7a
3
6b
4
6c
5
7c+
6
6c
7
6a
continuous steep wall climbing, do not expect Bockmattli North slaps. FA: Erich Ruetsche & first RP Andreas Schweizer | 7 | |||
7a+ | Trubadur
1
6c+
2
6c+
3
7a+
4
6b+
5
6b
6
6b+
7
6a+
8
5c
| 8 | |||
5b A1 | Nordwand
Sanierungsbedürftig (Stand 2014) | 8 | |||
8b | Gravitation
1
7a+
2
7c+/8a
3
7b
4
8b
5
7c+
6
6c+
| 6 | |||
Bockmattli Gross Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Ostpfeiler
1
5c
50m
2
4c
50m
3
5c
50m
4
5a
45m
5
4a
50m
6
4c
45m
7
5b
45m
8
5c+
30m
9
4c
45m
10
4c
45m
11
4b
45m
12
4a
50m
| 550m, 12 | |||
7a+ | Einsiedlerweg
1
5c+
2
6a
3
5c+
4
7a
5
5a
6
7a+
7
5b
5c+ /A1 Route geht in die Ostkante | 8 | |||
7c | Zischtigsclub
1
5c+
2
7a
3
6b
4
7b
5
7b
6
7b+
7
6c
8
7c
9
6b
10
5c
| 10 | |||
6a | Alte Nordwand
1
6a
2
5b
3
4b
4
5b
5
4a
6
3
7
4a
Startet etwa in der Haelfte von Direkte Nordwand (nach 5SL links weg) | 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Direkte Nordwand
1
4b
30m
2
5c
45m
3
5c+
45m
4
5c+
30m
5
6a+
45m
6
6a
20m
7
5c+
30m
8
5c
45m
9
5b
45m
10
5c+
45m
11
2
45m
FA: M. Niedermann & P. Diener, 1956 | 430m, 11 | |||
5c+ | Aquarius
1
4b
2
4b
3
5b
4
5b
5
5c+
6
5c
7
5c
8
5c
9
5c
10
5c
11
5a
12
3
5c+/ A1 | 11 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Supertramp
1
3
2
6a+
3
6c+
4
6a
5
6b
6
5c+
7
5c+
8
6c+
9
6a
10
6b
11
6a
12
6b
Video Supertramp FFA: Martin Scheel & Gregor Benisowitsch, 1980 | 11 | |||
6a+ | Freetrip
1
6a+
35m
2
6a+
35m
3
5a
35m
4
5b
50m
5
6a
25m
6
6a
30m
7
5a
30m
8
5b
40m
| 280m, 8 | |||
6a+ | Nordwandriss
1
3
2
6a
3
6a+
4
4a
| 4 | |||
6a | ★★ Nordwestwand
1
5c
25m
2
5b
40m
3
5c
25m
4
5c+
35m
5
5c
35m
6
6a
35m
7
5b
30m
8
4b
35m
| 260m, 8 | |||
6c | Dreimal kurz gelacht
1
6b+
2
6b
3
6c
4
6a
5
6a+
6
5c
| 7 | |||
Bockmattli Gross Bockmattliturm West | |||||
6b | Westwand
1
5c
25m
2
4a
30m
3
5c
35m
4
5c+
25m
5
6b
40m
6
5c
20m
6a obl. Route Westwand aufgrund Felsausbruch nicht kletterbar Set: FA: W.Fleischmann & M.Niedermann, 1954 | 180m, 6, 10 | |||
{UIAA} 4+ | Westriss
1
4
25m
2
4+
25m
3
4
20m
4
3
30m
5
3+
30m
6
3
45m
| 180m, 6 | |||
{UIAA} 5- | Südgrat | 4 | |||
{UIAA} 3 | Deubergrätchen | ||||
{UIAA} 6- | Direkter Westriss
1
2
2
6-
3
2
| 3 | |||
Bockmattli Westpfeiler | |||||
5c | Westwand am Westpfeiler
1
4b
2
5c
3
5b
4
5c
5
5c
6
3
7
3
| 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Westpfeiler
1
3a
20m
2
4b
30m
3
4b
30m
4
6a+
35m
5
5a
40m
6
5b
35m
7
4c
35m
8
3a
15m
einies an Bohrhaken vorhanden, insb. in den schwierigen SL, aber auch streckenweise selbst abzusichern FA: C.Fleischmann, C.Hauser & M.Niedermann, 1954 | 240m, 8 | |||
6c+ | Südwand
1
6a
2
6c+
3
5b
4
5b
5
5c+
6
4c
Set: FA: E.Glaus & J.Hensler, 1960 | 6 | |||
6c | Salome
1
6c
45m
2
6a+
35m
FA: M.Scheel & V.Vodicka, 1983 | 80m, 2, 10 | |||
Bockmattli Foehrenturm | |||||
{UIAA} 6 | ★ Alte Nordwand
1
4
40m
2
5
30m
3
5
35m
4
6
30m
5
6
33m
6
5+
33m
7
5+
40m
1993 sanierte Msl Route an Wasserrinnen FA: 1962 | 240m, 7 | |||
{UIAA} 7- | Superlative
1
4
25m
2
5+
35m
3
5
25m
4
5-
20m
5
5
40m
6
6+
25m
7
6
30m
8
7-
40m
9
3
60m
Erste Sportkletterroute im Bockmattli, eine der ersten Routen der Schweiz in diesem Schwierigkeitsgrad. Lohnende und anspruchsvolle Platten- und Wasserrinnenkletterei. weitere Infos: http://www.topodb.ch/index.php?function=display&object=Route&level=route&id=2934 | 300m, 9 | |||
{UIAA} 8- | Projekt | ||||
Bockmattli Klein Bockmattliturm Nord | |||||
{UIAA} 8+ | Polyquirl
1
7+
30m
2
7
47m
3
8-
25m
4
8+
20m
5
8-
45m
6
3
25m
7
4+
45m
| 240m, 7 | |||
{UIAA} 6+ | ★★ Alte Nordwand
1
4
35m
2
6+
15m
3
5-
30m
4
5
30m
5
4
40m
6
2
10m
7
3
50m
8
4-
45m
9
3+
45m
10
4
45m
11
3
20m
Der Einstieg befindet sich bei der Wasserfassung am rechten Wandfuss des kleinen Turms. Nach links wegklettern. Nach der Hälfte der Seil Länge (beim kleinen Baum) zweigt "Prachtsexemplar" nach rechts hoch von der Route ab, hier weiter nach links Richtung Verschneidung. In der 6. SL zuerst auf der linken Seite der Rinne folgen, danach nach links aus der Rinne rausklettern. In den einfacheren Längen gibt es nur wenig Haken. Keile und Mittlere Cams mitnehmen. Beim Ausstieg etwas nach SE abklettern, dann 25m Abseilen. Nochmal etwas abklettern und 2x 25m in die Klein Chälen Abseilen. FA: C. Hauser & J. Krebs, 1945 | 370m, 11 | |||
{UIAA} 8 | Roter Winter
1
8-
40m
2
8
40m
3
6
30m
4
8-
50m
5
6
40m
| 200m, 5 | |||
{UIAA} 7 | Ueli Hürlemann Gedächtnisweg
1
7-
35m
2
6+
35m
3
7
20m
4
6+
50m
5
6
45m
6
3
40m
7
5+
50m
8
5+
45m
9
3
40m
| 360m, 10 | |||
{UIAA} 7 | Direkte Nordwand
1
6
20m
2
2
40m
3
4
20m
4
5+
40m
5
5
20m
6
6+
25m
7
7
35m
8
3
45m
| 250m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ Prachtsexemplar
1
6b
40m
2
6c+
35m
3
7a
25m
4
6c
20m
5
7a
35m
6
6c
35m
7
5c
50m
6b obl. 50m Seil 10 Exen Zustioeg 1/2 SL über Alte N-Wand | 240m, 7 | |||
Bockmattli Klein Bockmattliturm West | |||||
{UIAA} 7 | Gilgen hau ab
1
5
50m
2
6-
37m
3
7
40m
| 130m, 3 | |||
{UIAA} 7+/8- | Koch ins Loch
1
7-
50m
2
7+/8-
35m
| 85m, 2 | |||
5c+ | ★★ Westwändli
1
5a
2
3a
3
2a
4
4b
5
5c+
6
4b
7
3c
8
3a
| 200m, 8, 29 | |||
7a+ | Direkte Westkante
1
4a
2
5c
3
7a
4
7a+
5
7a+
| 9 | |||
7a+ | Himmelskante
1
4a
2
5c
3
7a
4
7a+
5
6a
6
6c
7
6c+
| 7 | |||
6b | ★★★ Echo der Zeit
1
6a
30m
2
5c
25m
3
5c
40m
4
6b
40m
5
6b
3040m
6
6a
| 3200m, 6 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Handlanger
1
6b+
2
6b+
3
6b+
Set: T. Götz & M. Wyser, 1981 Maint: T. Götz, 2020 | 3 | |||
7b | Frick an Strick
1
6a
2
5c
3
6c
4
7a+
5
6c
6
7b
| 6 | |||
6c+ | Element of slime
1
5a
2
6c+
3
6c+
4
6a
5
6c+
6
6c+
7
6c+
| 7 | |||
6c+ | Obsigent | ||||
6c+ | Pearl Harbor | ||||
6a | Amuse Bouche | ||||
Bockmattli Klein Bockmattliturm Sued | |||||
{UIAA} 4 | SW-Verschneidung/W-Grätchen | 7 | |||
{UIAA} 8+ | Billi-Ze-Kick
1
7+
20m
2
8+
35m
| 55m, 2 | |||
6c+ | Pogoparty | 30m | |||
7b | Tschanun Rap | 30m | |||
6b | Strohmänner und Handlanger | 30m | |||
7a | Super Dupont | 30m | |||
7b+ | Swinging Zombies | 25m | |||
Der Plan | 35m | ||||
7a+ | Kränkit Nudel | 27m | |||
7b+ | Rotznase | 25m | |||
6a | 37,9 | 25m | |||
8a | Rosskur | 25m | |||
6c+ | Milchbubi | 20m | |||
7b+ | Koloss von Rodoss | 25m | |||
7a | Franzl goes to Heaven | 20m | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Al Koppone
1
6a
25m
2
6a+
25m
3
5c
15m
| 65m, 3 | |||
7a+ | Tante Adelante | 18m | |||
7b+ | Monkey Puzzle | 18m | |||
no name | 18m | ||||
7b | Hühnertanz | 18m | |||
{UIAA} 5+ | Gelbes Wändchen | ||||
{UIAA} 4 A1 | Altes Südwändli | ||||
{UIAA} 5 A1 | Direkte Südwand | ||||
Bockmattli Namenloser Turm | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Meriba
1
5c+
35m
2
5c+
40m
3
5c
30m
4
5c
30m
5
4b
25m
Die Route bleibt nach Regen länger Nass. Es sollten 2-3 trockene Tage abgewartet werden. Der Einstieg befindet sich in der Klein Chälen, direkt gegenüber vom Abstiegsweg der Westschulter vom kleinen Turm. Topo und Infos auf https://www.kletterschule.ch/topos/bockmattli. Set: M. Schmed, K.Schmid & Th. Götz, 2015 | 160m, 5, 12 | |||
5a | ★★ Namenlose Kante
1
3c
45m
2
4b
30m
3
4b
30m
4
3b
45m
5
5a
40m
6
4c
30m
7
5a
25m
8
4c
45m
9
3c
15m
Start at the bolted belay point marked with blue paint. Route follows an arete to top out to a small peak. All belay stations consist of a ring bolt and an expansion bolt. Protection consists of a mixture of expansion bolts and natural gear. The climb is occasionally run out, route finding is sometimes difficult and bailing could be complex. The rock quality is generally good but there is still plenty of loose rock on the route. From the top it's possible to hike directly down the mountain via a valley to the right of the climb. It is also possible to hike to the summit of Bockmattli. A complete topo is available in the Schweiz Plaisir Ost Guidebook. Pitches:
| 310m, 9 | |||
6b | ★★ Höhlenweg
1
4b
60m
2
5c+
10m
3
6b
35m
4
4c
40m
5
6a
20m
6
6a
30m
7
5b
35m
8
5c
40m
9
5c
35m
10
5c+
20m
11
6a
30m
1996 neu eingerichtet / saniert; allerdings weiterhin KK&Friends sehr nützlich FA: C. Hauser & J. Hensler, 1959 | 360m, 11 | |||
{UIAA} 5 | Westkante (Schafstöckli)
1
5
25m
2
5
35m
3
3+
20m
4
4
40m
5
2
6
3
7
3
| 120m, 7 | |||
Bockmattli Schiberg Nordkantenabbruch | |||||
5c+ | Clean Climb Trip
1
3
2
5a
3
5b
4
5c+
| 100m, 4 | |||
5b | ★★ Am Marcel sini
1
5b
2
5a
| 2 | |||
5c | ★ Zustiegsroute | ||||
6a+ | Flowerpower
1
6a+
2
5c+
3
3
Startet ab dem Stand der Routen 'Am Marcel sini' oder 'Zustiegsroute'. | 3 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Gumpiroute
1
6a+
2
6b+
Startet ab dem Stand nach den Routen 'Am Marcel sini' oder 'Zustiegsroute'. | 2 | |||
6b | ★★ Andromeda
1
6b
2
6a+
Startet ab dem Stand der Routen 'Am Marcel sini' oder 'Zustiegsroute'. | 2 | |||
6c+ | Perseus
Startet ab dem ersten Stand der Route 'Gumpiroute'. | ||||
7a | ★★ Jenelana
1
6b
2
6a+
3
6c
4
7a
| 4 | |||
5b | ★★★ Riss des Caesars
On September 7th, 2018 a crack was free climbed on Schiberg (near Bockmattlihütte). The lead climber (César Díaz) and the partnership (Eduardo Alonso) opened this new route in the most pure style: hammer and pitons were not carried, and compromise was total. Only a set of TotemCams were used. For future repetitions: Only cams, wedges (set) and slings are required (x10 Express). Abseiling down from a pine tree was set up with slings and screw carabiner (Siuranana, Lucky). Double ropes are recommended. We beg to not use pitons or fixed material ever on this route. Please. Topo available in Bockmattlihütte by Benno Kaelin. Say hello to him from us. FA: César Díaz & Eduardo Alonso Gil, 7 Sep 2018 | 50m | |||
Innerthal Staumauer | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Chaos im Weltall | ||||
7c+ | Grotta Continua | ||||
Projekt 3 | |||||
8a | Atacama | ||||
7c | Sonora | ||||
6b | Kalahari | ||||
7a+ | Mojave | ||||
7b+ | Aimaro | ||||
Projekt 2 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ unknown | ||||
7b | Ugly | ||||
8b | Caro Dario | ||||
7c+ | Hart am Wind | ||||
7b+ | Twelve Monkies |