Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8b | ||||||||
8b | ★★★ King of Bongo - with Ivo | 25m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Jun 2021 | |||
King line!
Cool sequences and sustained climbing all the way.
Could do all the moves, now i just need to find the energy to link the 4 boulder problems =)
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8b | ★★★ Eulenspiegel - with Sabrina | 30m | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||
There is a distinct lack of footholds..
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8b | ★★★ King of Bongo - with Manu | 25m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | |||
Yes!
Bangin' on my bongo all that swing belongs to me, I'm so happy there's nobody in my place instead of me =) Put my draws in a bit over a year ago and now (after a total of 8 days over the last year) I can finally put this to rest! Classic line. My first of the grade |
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8a+ | ||||||||
8a+ | ★★ Sweet Home - with Jascha, Michele De Marchi | 30m | Vättis | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th May 2019 | |||
5th day on...not the time to mistake a 8a+ for a 7b+....was wondering that it felt a bit hard! (had to pull on a few draws to make the anchor)
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8a+ | ★★★ El Valor - with Sabrina | 35m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | |||
First grade 30...a bit of an aussie milestone =)
This is another very cool Gäsi line. A bit morpho / surely will be easier with larger wingspan, i.e. if you can span from one good sidepull to the other or go directly from undercling to the good undercling. For me, with all the moves I had to add in between on those sub-optimal holds this felt like a real step up from the 8a's / full value for the grade; thus the name holds true "El Valor" . Ended up with some really cool sequences featuring upside down gastons, heel- and toe-hooks, pushing into slopy corners and of course, all in combination with a lot of sidepulls! Very happy with the send |
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8a+ | ★★ Verloren im Paradies | 30m | Solothurner Jura | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Sep 2021 | |||
The bottom and the top crux felt really hard....the middle crux felt unsolvable
|
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8a+ | ★★★ Fassona | 20m | Avegno | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||
Basically down to one hang. But don't think this will improve any time soon. Need to get more power endurance.
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7b+ |
★★★ Ambositra (Ambositra P1)
- with
Anna
1
7b+
20m
| 20m | Nordgalerie | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
Was already way too warm when I tried this. But seems quite doable.
Whoever put the long sling at the crux gets a beer from me; thank you sir. |
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8a+ Easy | ★ Pororoca - with Manu | 25m | Gäsi | ★ Good | Tue 13th Sep 2022 | |||
Not as good as other routes on this wall but has some cool sequences. Unfortunately, its always a bit dirty which makes the footholds very slippery.
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8a+ | ★★ Maweo - with Gillian | 35m | Vättis | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | |||
Wow, this righthand crimp after the little roof is so bad, not sure if there is a better sequence to skip it?!
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8a+ | FA ★★★ Senseless - with Henri, Manu, Mari, Mark | 45m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2023 | |||
I can stop bashing my head against the wall now
Sensorium in itself is already a classic, and this extension makes it even better. Hard to get established to the first bolt, then some fun resistance climbing to the crux...Its all about arriving with enough energy at those slimpers... In order to send this I had to have Sensorium so dialed, that I could do it as a warm-up; and ended up sending Sensorium 3 times in one day |
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8a+ | ★★ End of comfort - with Sara_S | 18m | Avegno | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Jan 2024 | |||
Good fun and actually doable. Crimpy technical climbing.
|
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7b+ |
★★★ Ambositra P1
- with
Xa4
1
7b+
20m
| 20m | Nordgalerie | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st May 2024 | |||
8a | ||||||||
8a | ★★★ Devi - with Michele De Marchi | 25m | Galerie | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||
Did all the moves with awesome beta from Michele...connecting the dots will be a different story...
|
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8a | ★★★ Dr. Boulderer - with Michele De Marchi | 28m | Magletsch | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th May 2019 | |||
OMG, what a beast! Finally found myself a project I'm stoked for, and even the name fits
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8a | ★★★ Dr. Boulderer - with Julie | 28m | Magletsch | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th May 2019 | |||
A few good links; done with about 10 hangs. So good, but so many hard moves at my limit...
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8a | ★★★ Pirelli - with Lukas | 30m | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | |||
Haha, what are you supposed to do if you cant reach the jug from the first anchor?!
|
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8a | ★★★ Alaska Kid - with Jascha | 30m | Voralpsee | ★★★ Classic | Mon 19th Aug 2019 | |||
Did all the moves, but the top crux is tough nuts.
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8a | ★★ Red Bull | 25m | Chropfberg | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Aug 2019 | |||
Learning to fly...
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8a | ★★★ Dr. Boulderer | 28m | Magletsch | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Sep 2019 | |||
Guess who's back....
|
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8a | ★★★ Grenzgänger | 30m | Voralpsee | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Sep 2019 | |||
Brilliant climb, def. a Project for next season! First Mega Classic I tried in the northern hemisphere
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8a | ★★★ Thai City | 25m | Galerie | Sun 13th Oct 2019 | ||||
Thailand? I thought we are going to Greece....
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8a | ★★★ Mandala | 30m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||
Solved all the moves...Classic route, very delicate climbing all the way.
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8a | ★★★ Sirga - with Jascha, Michele De Marchi, Ivo | 36m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th May 2020 | |||
Wohoo, first 8a!!! Had to set the inner Lion free to claw my way up.
Quite a few tricky sections where you could come off at any moment....Feels like the 35m of climbing only has 2 downwards facing holds...love it ;-) |
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8a | ★★ Operation Walküre - with Jacky | 35m | Plattenwald | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Sep 2020 | |||
Cool climb with a few very bouldery moves...Chipped obviously.
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8a | ★★ Im Netz der Spinne - with Ivo | Plattenwald | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Sep 2020 | ||||
Today was not the day to try this...
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8a | ★★★ Grau Gnom - with Sabrina, Ivo | 42m | Gäsi | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Mar 2021 | |||
40+m of awesome but continuously challenging climbing. So many cool sequences, kinda fries your brain.
Gäsi is the gift that keeps on giving... |
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8a | ★★★ La Le Lu - with Sabrina | 40m | Gäsi | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 3rd May 2021 | |||
...nur der Mann im Mond schaut zu....
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8a | ★★ Operation Walküre | 35m | Plattenwald | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | |||
Still feels just doable, even today with 90% humidity. Who knows what it would feel like if I ever get decent conditions here....
If only the foothold at the second crux would be 2cm higher... |
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8a | ★★★ Kalidor der Kristalljäger | 30m | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | |||
Steller route! Technical shenanigans in the lower part but you have to keep quite a bit in the tank for the upper third!
|
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8a |
★★ Horrorist
- with
Sabrina
1
6b+
10m
2
8a
20m
| 30m | Berner Jura | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jul 2021 | |||
Didn't get the crux move done. Maybe If it would be 10degrees colder I'd be able to hold the sudepull...
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8a | ★★★ Hypercombination - with Sabrina | 35m | Vättis | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Aug 2021 | |||
Soft 8a or maybe just 7c+.
|
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7c+ 8a | ★★★ Ivans Route - with Sabrina | 30m | Magletsch | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | |||
Am I the only one who realised than "Ivan" backwards is spelled "Navi"? I, therefore, recommend that the Ivan's of this world will navigate us in all major decisions in life.
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8a | ★ LinX - with Sabrina | 30m | Solothurner Jura | ★ Good | Sun 12th Sep 2021 | |||
3rd go; send in pouring rain. Luckily, the 8a section stays mostly dry. The upper 7a+ crux, on the other hand, was quite spicy with the holds being completely wet and me slowly getting soaked...
Pro Tip: Do not use chalk when you are climbing up a waterfall |
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8a | ★★ Arabesque - with Sabrina | 30m | Solothurner Jura | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | |||
Adds 7m of hardish moves to the 7c+.
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8a | ★ Pornograffiti - with Sabrina | 30m | Solothurner Jura | ★ Good | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | |||
Weirdly chipped and through that quite morpho...
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8a | ★★ Alpin Spez Verlängerung | 30m | Magletsch | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Sep 2021 | |||
A bit of a one-mover....but big enough to keep me out
|
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8a | ★★★ Plaisir obligé - with Sabrina | 20m | Solothurner Jura | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Sep 2021 | |||
Walk like an Egyptian...
What a classic line, but not at all my style; big moves on very steep terrain. |
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8a | ★★★ Il gioco del mondo (L1+L2) | 32m | Campione | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Dec 2021 | |||
All moves are very doable, but would need some time to connect everything. The hard (middle) part is super nice. Technical hard moves and a crimpy traverse.
Very runout to the anchor.
|
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8a |
★★★ Jack di cuori
1
7c+
15
2
8a
15
| 30m | Avegno | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Jan 2022 | |||
L1: Need to be a bit fresher or with a bit more power endurance. Also the clipping is super insecure for me. Have not found a clipping position for the first crux bolt yet, and will have to skip the second crux bolt
Extension: A bit more my style, but need to best L1 first ;-). |
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8a | ★★ Jack lo squirtatore - with Sabrina | 25m | Avegno | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | |||
Soft and fun. Super close to tick this 2nd shot...and then i needed another 3 tries .
Slopey and powerful.
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8a | ★★★ A50 - with Xa4 | 30m | Galerie | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | |||
Did the sequence both ways, with and w/o the pocket. Feels equally hard to me, but I also really suck at making this pocket work.
All in all quite soft for 8a but a fun line; lots of technical crimping.
|
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8a | ★★★ Früchte des Zorns | 33m | Paschga | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd May 2022 | |||
Cool climb, but it was way too humid to enjoy...also the start was wet :-/
|
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7a+ |
★★ Katta (Katta P1)
- with
Anna
1
7a+
20m
| 20m | Nordgalerie | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | |||
7b |
★★ Laserblade (Laserblade P1)
- with
Xa4
1
7b
25m
| 25m | Schlänggen | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | |||
7b+ |
★★ No time for Wanking (No time for Wanking P1)
- with
Xa4
1
7b+
25m
| 25m | Schlänggen | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Jun 2022 | |||
8a | ★★★ Luftschloss - with Ivo, Manu, Gillian | 39m | Paschga | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Jul 2022 | |||
Stellar route with many cool sequences which feel even nicer and more stable when you have done them a few times. All of these moves could be in a 7b+...
First hard route I have done of this (pure endurance) style, and also felt very close to what I am able to do in this style. Teamsend with Ivo which made this even better |
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7c+ 8a | ★ Bläcky Verlängerung - with Manu | 30m | Magletsch | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||
Teamsend with Manu!
Very cool boulder sequence; felt rather soft. |
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8a | ★★★ Sensorium - with Manu | 30m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
Nice!!!
It's a 5m power endurance problem but the rest of the climb is still very cool!
|
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8a | ★★★ Luftikus - with Ivo, Manu | 38m | Paschga | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Aug 2022 | |||
Originally thought this was harder than Luftschloss, but thanks to the good rest-beta (Thanks Jürgen), this actually felt a tad easier.
Besides the weird corner at the 3rd bolt, this is as good as Luftschloss, another classic line! |
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8a | ★★★ Blind date extension - with Manu | 44m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Aug 2022 | |||
Brilliant 44m of climbing with the crux at almost 40m height.
For me this felt a tad harder than grau gnom or sensorium but might be easier if you have longer legs or, even better, are more flexible than I am. |
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8a | ★★★ Galgenvögel - with Manu, Ivo | 33m | Paschga | ★ Good | Tue 6th Sep 2022 | |||
I gave up on this one now. The crux is basically unclimbable for me. I tried about 20 different sequences by now; im even able to do some of them straight from the rope but not a single one is doable for me in sequence. Maybe i come back in a year or so, if i feel a bit stronger by then.
Everything after the flake is quite nice actually. |
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8a | ★★★ Ronchi Free - with Sara_S, Cate | 30m | Lodrino | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Sep 2022 | |||
Stellar climb, following a slightly overhanging crack line. For me more technical than phyically hard.
2nd go. |
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7c+ 8a | Orlando - with Cate | 20m | Osogna | Thu 9th Feb 2023 | ||||
Apperently 7c now? i think 7c+ could be fair.
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8a | ★★★ Godzilla - with Cate | 20m | The Geisha Walls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Feb 2023 | |||
The moves were quickly solved but currently i am missing the endurance for this.
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8a | ★★★ MissPuta - with Sara, Christian, Pierre | 30m | Goldensciauar | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2023 | |||
8a | ★★ Storytime - with Pierre | 28m | Faido | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Mar 2023 | |||
Bouldery with a quite unique crux move.
20th 8a
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7c+ | ★ Digit(an)ale - with Sara_S, Christian | 18m | The Geisha Walls | ★ Good | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||
Quite contrived. The way i did it, prob a bit easier, thus 7c+.
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8a | ★★★ Wolverine - with Sara_S, Christian | 25m | The Geisha Walls | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||
Keep those claws out...
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8a ~7c+ | ★★★ Parzival - with Mr C | 35m | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Wed 5th Jul 2023 | |||
A bit contrived. But once you accepted to go straight over the bolts and dont use the good stuff on the left its actually the better line! Still more 7c+ I think
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8a | ★★ Big Lebowski - with Sara_S | 37m | Nordgalerie | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2023 | |||
Fun climb. Cruxy lower part and enjoyable second half. hope Ill get back on it soonish.
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8a | ★★ Explosiv - with Mr C | 20m | Gäsi | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Apr 2024 | |||
I think this is where my Gäsi-Bingo meets its maker...
|
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8a Easy |
★★★ Fight P1
- with
Mr C
1
30
| 30m | Cama | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jun 2024 | |||
As the rest of the crag, a bit weirdly bolted (or at least not bolted for the vertical challenged...).
After the powerful start and a no-hands rest some fun technical climbing. |
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7c+ | ||||||||
7c+ | ★★ Grünabfuhr - with Michele De Marchi | 20m | Galerie | ★ Good | Sun 7th Apr 2019 | |||
Couldn't get the last draw on...
|
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7c 7c+ | ★★ Onkel Ben's | 25m | Magletsch | Mon 13th May 2019 | ||||
7c+ | ★★ Esperanza - with Jascha | 28m | Vättis | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Jul 2019 | |||
Head torch ascent =)
|
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7c+ | ★★ Sinterland - with Nicolas | Motel | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Jul 2019 | ||||
7c+ | ★★ Lucy | 35m | Voralpsee | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | ||||
9+ 7c+ | ★ Lovers in the Wind - with Nicolas Descloux | 18m | Brochne Burg | ★ Good | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | |||
a few very big moves on very tiny holds...
|
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7c+ | ★★ Brokkolissima - with Julie, Ivo | 25m | Plattenwald | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Jun 2020 | |||
I personally prefer carrots (except for the bolts of course), but has some cool moves and the scenery is amazing.
Would probably get 7b+ at Gäsi |
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7c+ | ★★ Via Maria | 20m | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | |||
All moves feel doable, but you need to keep it together, especially towards the anchor.
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7c+ | ★★ Intermezzo - with Ivo | 28m | Vättis | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | |||
On to the next act...
|
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7c+ | ★★ Onda Magica - with Sabrina | 30m | Ponte Brolla | ★ Good | Mon 15th Mar 2021 | |||
Almost solved the crux (except for the very first move). Is a bit of a boulder problem.
|
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7a |
★★ Esperienza ProFonda (Esperienza ProFonda P1)
- with
Sabrina
1
7a
| 40m | Brontallo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Mar 2021 | |||
6c |
★★★ Poro rat (Poro rat P1)
- with
Sabrina
1
6c
| 40m | Brontallo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Mar 2021 | |||
P1: Nice warmup, maybe 6c?
|
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7c+ | Sputnik Double Shock - with Sabrina | 30m | Gäsi | Average | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | |||
Unfortunately very morpho....and very dirty...
|
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7c+ | ★★ Motorcortex - with Sabrina | 30m | Freienbach | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||
There was no planning nor control in the execution of these movements.
Maybe more 7c than 7c+. All depends on how well you solve the starting crux. Last time I thought prob 7c, this time it felt more like 7c+.. |
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7c+ | ★ Laisse la petite...tranquille - with Xa4 | 35m | Gäsi | ★ Good | Sat 24th Jul 2021 | |||
Not sure what to do here...
|
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7c+ | ★★ Leggings Lügen Nie - with Sabrina | 30m | Vättis | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Aug 2021 | |||
Getting used to the lower crux again for the hyper combination
|
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7c+ | ★★ Dornenvögel - with Sabrina | 30m | Vättis | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Aug 2021 | |||
Spiky birds!
|
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7c+ | ★★ Sunnenkönig | 20m | Solothurner Jura | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Aug 2021 | |||
Feels like this entire thing consists entirely of underclings. Usually my kind of jam, but today couldn't figure out the last crux. Overall a cool climb though.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Gummibärchen Orakel | 30m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Sep 2021 | |||
Super cool route, basically as good as grau gnom, just a bit shorter. The bouldery start (first 5 draws) Ended up being the crux for me. But lots of places where you can fall off, even after the no hands rest.
(3rd go)
|
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7c+ | ★★ Sensible Harmonie - with Sabrina | 23m | Solothurner Jura | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Sep 2021 | |||
very cool line and some quite bouldery sequences; felt solid for the great.
|
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7c+ | ★★ Echo der Zeit | 30m | Solothurner Jura | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Sep 2021 | |||
Hard... But i was also quite tired at the end of the day. Should try this again with fresh arms..
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Riding on the Storm - with Xa4 | 35m | Nordgalerie | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||
Three hardish sections separated by good rests. Soft but also absolutely my style.
(Put some draws and tick-marks on coming down from the neighboring route; otherwise onsight) |
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7c+ | ★★★ Meridian - with Ivo, Manu, Gillian | 35m | Paschga | ★★★ Classic | Wed 27th Jul 2022 | |||
Back to back send with Luftschloss; I couldn't believe it when I clipped the anchor
This went down a lot quicker and also felt a fair bit easier than Luftschloss, thus for me this is 7c+ and not 8a (Or maybe I just got super lucky). |
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7c+ | ★★★ Blind Date - with Manu | 33m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | |||
Another Gäsi classic; long with really nice sequences...essentially 3 7b+ on top of each other.
Very close to ticking the extension as well. |
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7c+ | FA ★★ Tacocat direct start - with Jascha | 38m | Vättis | ★ Good | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||
Makes it harder, but I like the OG Tacocat better!
|
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7c+ | ★ Alles oder Nichts | 20m | Vättis | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Jul 2023 | |||
Fun climbing to a short distinct crux on crimps.
|
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7c+ | ★ Caramba - with Henri | 15m | Chropfberg | ★ Good | Fri 14th Jul 2023 | |||
Haha, i still cant do the start, which is a shame as the rest is quite nice.
Best thing i could come up with is some sort of campussing on crimps....but feels like I just havent found the proper beta. |
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7c+ ~7c | ★★ Wolfsspur - with Jascha | Plattenwald | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st Aug 2023 | ||||
nice technical route, not too hard with the right sequence.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Desperado - with Jascha | 22m | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Sep 2023 | |||
Brilliant climb, the best at Trollfels imho. stacked little boulder problems interrupted by descent rests.
Felt hard today in tropical conditions. |
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7c+ Easy | ★★★ Aquaria - with Gerit, Henri | 30m | Fluppi | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||
2nd go. Really nice climb, for me a tad easier than China WAll
|
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7c+ Easy | ★★ China Wall - with Gerit, Henri | 30m | Fluppi | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||
This time as a warm-up, after checking out the moves last time.
3 hard sections interrupted by good rests. The thumb undercling move is quite unique. |
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7c+ | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio ext. - with Manu | 38m | Avegno | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | |||
More technical than hard.
|
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7c+ | ★★★ Milano Torino - with Mr C | 25m | Avegno | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Mar 2024 | |||
No clue while this only gets one star in the book. Super fun climbing with quite the unique crux.
|
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7c+ Easy | FA ★★★ Happy Feet - with Mr C, Mr M | 30m | Gäsi | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th May 2024 | |||
Engaging climbing on stellar rock quality, where body positioning and esp. good footwork are key.
As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done |
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7c | ||||||||
7c Easy | ★★ Michelangela - with Ines | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th May 2019 | ||||
I'm singing in the rain...
|
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7c | ★★ Pirelli short - with Lukas | 22m | Plattenwald | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | |||
Brilliant climb. Make sure you have the right rubber equipped, so many unlikely moves.
|
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7c | ★★ RS99 - with Julie | 33m | Magletsch | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | |||
In Thailand conditions with 95% humidity..
Climbed the first pitch almost like Bläcky, not sure how you are supposed to go further left through the crumbly stuff...this is either super contrived or super soft. |