Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mi 29. Mai 2024 - Freienbach | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Fliegenfischen - mit Manu | 35m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Best warm-up of the crag i reckon
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7b+/c | ★★ Hydratation - mit Manu | ★ Gut | ||||
Fun climbing but very brittle in parts.
Minus one star for the chipped morpho anchor crux.
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7c | ★★ Nanometerleiste - mit Manu | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Beautiful those slimpers in those rainy / misty conditions . Luckily its not actually the crux.
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Mi 8. Mai 2024 - Freienbach | ||||||
7b schwer | Bastard - mit Mr C | Durchschnitt | ||||
Interesting.... Tried till the first bolt a while ago, not being able to find a solution. Today first go basically onsighting the entire thing by just crimping the shit out of everything. Closest I came to falling off was clipping the anchor, not seeing the sidepull jug.
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Mi 8. Mai 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
7c+ leicht | FA ★★★ Happy Feet - mit Mr C, Mr M | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Engaging climbing on stellar rock quality, where body positioning and esp. good footwork are key.
As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done |
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Mi 1. Mai 2024 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Trolok | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Ambositra P1
- mit
Xa4
1
7b+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Mi 1. Mai 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★★ Aladaĝlar - mit Jascha | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
First go, but have done the LHV before.
Easier and nicer than the LHV (which was already soft), so probs more like 7b.
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7a+ ~7b | ★ Torpor - mit Jascha | ★ Gut | ||||
Climbs better than it looks. For me harder than the new 7bs on the right.
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So 21. Apr 2024 - Cama | ||||||
Laboratorio | ||||||
7b | ★★ Quasar - mit Mr C | 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Not my best climbing performance
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8a | ★★★ Fight - mit Mr C | 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Bolting is not so great, but the route is fun.
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7a ~6c+ | ★★★ Nuove prospettive - mit Mr C | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
6b | ★ Fuga dal minotauro - mit Mr C | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
So 21. Apr 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Master of disaster - mit Mr C | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fell when you basically cant fall anymore towards the last draw. But i guess this is how it is with onsighting, just didnt see the foothold around the corner.
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6a | ★★ Amici per la Spazzola - mit Mr C | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
7b/b+ | ★★ Malbuner - mit Mr C | 34m, 16 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
With zero chalk on the route, this was quite an onsight fight.
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Mo 15. Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7a | ★★ Erebos - mit Sara_S | 35m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I guess i was the first one climbing it this year; now the upper section is nice and clean again ;-).
Good addition to the crag. |
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7c | ★★ El Xipiron - mit Mr C | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.
Not physically hard, but good body tension is key. |
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8a | ★★ Explosiv - mit Mr C | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I think this is where my Gäsi-Bingo meets its maker...
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Mo 15. Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Slot Machine - mit Mr C | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
New long line left of Prince Eisenherz.
Gets better the higher you go; with a tricky move out of the dihedral and onto the prow.
For me more 6c, but easier than the sandbagged 6cs to the left of it ;-) |
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7c ~7c | FA ★★ Discombobulated - mit Sara_S | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A fun journey this one.
Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉) Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb. A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans. Grade needs confirmation. |
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Fr 12. Apr 2024 - Paschga | ||||||
7b+ leicht | ★ Kapadokya - mit Jascha | ★ Gut | ||||
So the trick is to climb above the anchor....Good climbing but the bottom crux was quite wet.
I hope you are getting a discount on sika Jürgen ;-) |
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Di 19. Mär 2024 - Galerie | ||||||
Gorubi | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Bella Donna - mit Jascha | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Really enjoyed this one, even with the occasional wet hold.
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6c+ | ★★ Efeuverschneidung - mit Jascha | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
More a technical wall climb than a dihedral but good fun!
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Mo 18. Mär 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Zufolo | ||||||
6c ~6c | ★★ Totentanz - mit Mr C | 25m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good fun with a techy crux.
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Unrestricted - mit Mr C | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
On foot slip in the blazing sun .
Cool Climb
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6a+ | ★★ Moon Child - mit Mr C | 20m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7a+ ~6c | ★★★ Nimbus - mit Mr C | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun Climbing but the grades are a bit all over the place at this wall....
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Mo 18. Mär 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Underzero | ||||||
7b | ★★ Pistöle - mit Mr C | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good fun, just a bit sharp in parts.
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7c+ | ★★★ Milano Torino - mit Mr C | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
No clue while this only gets one star in the book. Super fun climbing with quite the unique crux.
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So 4. Feb 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6b | ★ Trigonometri - mit Manu | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
7b+ | ★★ Nessuna illusione - mit Manu | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super technical crux. Next time.
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7a | ★★ Bricolage - mit Manu | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6c+ | ★★ Test da Sogno - mit Manu | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7b | ★ Andy Q-λ - mit Manu | 35m | ★ Gut | |||
New books says 7a+, but 7b seems fair.
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7c+ | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio ext. - mit Manu | 38m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
More technical than hard.
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6c | ★ Faggio selvaggio - mit Manu | 19m | ★ Gut | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Dracula - mit Manu | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super good. Though felt like an oven in the full sun ;-)
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6c+ | ★★ La rivincita degli obesi - mit Manu | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Knew the shared start. Rest os
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6c | ★★ Enoma - mit Manu | 26m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Mo 29. Jan 2024 - The Geisha Walls | ||||||
The Chablis Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Castello di carte | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 29. Jan 2024 - Avegno | ||||||
Torbeccio Bala Balengo, Zufolandia, Zio fiasco | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Killing Batman - mit Sara_S | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7a | ★★ Tiglio l'appiglio - mit Sara_S | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
8a+ | ★★ End of comfort - mit Sara_S | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good fun and actually doable. Crimpy technical climbing.
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So 12. Nov 2023 - Russo | ||||||
Cabernet Sauvignon | ||||||
7a ~7b | ★★ Piaz Fraz | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Tricky smooth undercling layback crack.
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So 12. Nov 2023 - Russo | ||||||
Macaco | ||||||
6c | ★★ Per Domani | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7b+ | ★★ Scoiattolo volante | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
couldnt get out of the roof..
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7b | ★★ Camino Cassin | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Fluppi | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mann über Bord - mit Gerit, Henri | 27m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Hard to read if it hasnt been climbed for a while, but quite okay once you know where the holds are.
Great route.
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7c+ leicht | ★★ China Wall - mit Gerit, Henri | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This time as a warm-up, after checking out the moves last time.
3 hard sections interrupted by good rests. The thumb undercling move is quite unique. |
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7c+ leicht | ★★★ Aquaria - mit Gerit, Henri | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
2nd go. Really nice climb, for me a tad easier than China WAll
|
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Do 28. Sep 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ | Wotan - mit Jascha | Durchschnitt | ||||
Couldn't do the dynamic move, so did it statically with a very sharp RH crimp.
The definition of a omw.
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6c+ | ★★ Alkoholfrei - mit Jascha | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 25. Sep 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Strasse | ||||||
7c | ★★ Pocket Universe - mit Jascha | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun Route with a boulder start which can be solved in different ways.
Apparently you can also easily fall off the head wall if you mess it up |
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7b+ | ★ Allez! - mit Jascha | ★ Gut | ||||
The start is a shorty killer...the rest is fun.
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So 24. Sep 2023 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Mindgame | ||||||
8a | ★★ Big Lebowski - mit Sara_S | 37m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun climb. Cruxy lower part and enjoyable second half. hope Ill get back on it soonish.
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Fr 15. Sep 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b schwer | ★★ Cookies for power | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Cool line and a nice addition to the crag. Not an obvious crux....for me hard 7b or soft 7b+?
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So 10. Sep 2023 - Fluppi | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7a+ | Chez Hermes - mit Ivo, Jascha | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
After Ivo and Jascha gave this a solid scrub this was just climbable.
Some cool moves but will always be quite dirty.
Good on Ivo going in this first, making it to the anchor with a solid layer of clay on the holds |
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6c+ |
★ Du zuerst P1
- mit
Ivo, Jascha
1
6c+
20
| 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Mostly technical corner climbing.
Thanks Ivo for cleaning and the tick marks!
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7a | ★★ Land in Sicht - mit Ivo, Jascha | 35m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Probably the better warm-up
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Fr 8. Sep 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7a+ ~7a | ★★ Mr. Dry Hand - mit Jascha | 18m | ★ Gut | |||
Not harder than Alis Mum.
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7a | ★ AliMamma - mit Jascha | 8 | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 8. Sep 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
5c | ★ Kreuzweg - mit Jascha | 22m | Durchschnitt | |||
Trollfels Bingo complete ;-)
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7c+ | ★★★ Desperado - mit Jascha | 22m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Brilliant climb, the best at Trollfels imho. stacked little boulder problems interrupted by descent rests.
Felt hard today in tropical conditions. |
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Mi 6. Sep 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c | ★★ Skating Fred - mit Jascha | 13m | ★ Gut | |||
One of the better warm-ups around. Did the start already last time when i did the 7a, rest OS.
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7a+ ~7b+ | Sister Bliss - mit Jascha | 18m | Durchschnitt | |||
Nails getting of the ground, def. harder than 7a+!
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7a+ | ★★ Yothu Yindi - mit Jascha | 16m | ★ Gut | |||
Boulder problem to start and hard to read upper section (jumped for a non-existing hold during onsight ). A lot easier the second time around.
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Sa 2. Sep 2023 - Ellhorn - Fläscherberg | ||||||
Petit Verdon | ||||||
6a |
★★ BFT P2
- mit
Manu
2
6a
25m
| 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
6c | ★★ Pythagoras - mit Manu | 30m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Didnt really read the description and did this without gear. felt quite runout
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7b+ | ★★★ Axiom - mit Manu | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Stays in the shade till 13.30
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7b | ★★★ Chef Schimpanse - mit Manu | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Do 31. Aug 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7c+ ~7c | ★★ Wolfsspur - mit Jascha | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
nice technical route, not too hard with the right sequence.
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Fr 18. Aug 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7c | ★★ Sadly Bolter - mit Jascha | ★ Gut | ||||
Couldnt really solve draw 2-3....
The top is just nice 6b climbing
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7a | SKAramba - mit Jascha | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Thanks Jascha for the cleaning and the tickmarks =)
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6b+ ~6c+ | Mykines - mit Jascha | 15m | Durchschnitt | |||
Top has some cool holds but bottom half is quite crumbly. Also the start is very hard (for me harder than anything in the 7a we tried later).
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Mi 16. Aug 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
6b |
★★ Tenzli
- mit
Jascha
1
6b
15m
2
6a+
15m
This one feels more like 6b+. Great climbing though, very technical. | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7a | ★★ Tango - mit Jascha | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
One of the best or even the best pitch i have done at Gartenalp thus far. So much fun! Was super close on onsight, but missread the crux.
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7a ~6c+ |
★★ Tirami su P1
- mit
Jascha
1
7a
| 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Okay climb, removed a block from the undercling traverse...
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6c |
★★ Himmelstreppe
- mit
Jascha
1
6c
20
2
6c
18
Brilliant pitch, really enjoyed this one. | 38m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Classic climb, so much fun.
Did as Philip suggested and come down from the 2nd anchor.
Climbed the first pitch so "draw optimised" that I ended up clipping the second anchor with 12draws left on my harness 🥴🥴
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7a+ ~7a+ |
★ Orbit
- mit
Jascha
1
7a+
17m
Difficult crux section and last few moves towards the anchor.
2
6c
12m
| 29m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Wilderswil Sektor A | ||||||
7b/b+ | ★★ Huebere 2. SL - mit Mari | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Even at 30+ degree this is at max a very soft 7b. Good fun though all the way.
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5c | ★★ Huebere - mit Mari | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Another very nice easy pitch. Must have been a lot of work to clean this route, well worth it.
|
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7a |
★★★ Highflyer
- mit
Mari
1
5a
Classic for the grade. A nice 5a bolted for a 5a climber.
2
7a
| 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Sa 12. Aug 2023 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Wilderswil Sektor B | ||||||
6b | ★★ Nymphe - mit Mari | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7b+ | ★★ Salü Jopin - mit Mari | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super close to sending this on the first try...no time for a second try.
Climbs a bit better than Milchstraße although not as consistent. Would Def try again if I come back here. |
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7c | ★★ Milchstrasse - mit Mari | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Can see that this was a classic once, about 10k attempts ago....cool moves but just too polished. would not try again.
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Fr 4. Aug 2023 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Duha - mit Mari | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Messed up the onsight at the last hard bit, but was a really cool fight. Classic Route.
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Mo 24. Jul 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ausreisser - mit Mari | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
7a | ★ Seitenblick - mit Mari | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
Hmm very cruxy and contrived. The best are actually the last 3m to the anchor.
|
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6a+ |
★ Fresco P1
- mit
Mari
1
6a+
| 30m | ★ Gut | |||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Bölli - mit Mari | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
7a+ ~7a+ | ★ Orbit - mit Mari | 29m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Slipped 20cm before the anchor . Good onsight fight and nice route
|
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Do 20. Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Too hot to hoot - mit Sara_S | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
A mini-moonboard problem at 10° overhang =)
|
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So 16. Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★ Bella Donna - mit Beatrice | 22m | ★ Gut | |||
A bit contrived a bit green and a bit scary (some of the holds, you know your finger will stay there if your foot comes off.....). Otherwise some fun moves
|
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Fr 14. Jul 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Unten | ||||||
7b | ★★ Orakel - mit Henri | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fun climb! A bit contrived at the start but other than this really nice.
|
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6c | ★ Blindhammer - mit Henri | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Quite insecure to the second bolt.
|
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7c+ | ★ Caramba - mit Henri | 15m | ★ Gut | |||
Haha, i still cant do the start, which is a shame as the rest is quite nice.
Best thing i could come up with is some sort of campussing on crimps....but feels like I just havent found the proper beta. |
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So 9. Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c | FA ★★ Rotator - mit Mr C | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice technical traverse. The 1FP-undercling match is rad.
|
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So 9. Jul 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
7b | ★ Difficult Game - mit Henri | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
Fun climbing to a very distinct crux with a big deadpoint.
|
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7a+ ~7a | ★★★ Chemin de la mer - mit Henri | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Very fun route.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Lapin bleu - mit Henri | 25m | ★ Gut |