Routes in Phra-Nang Peninsula

No bolts. Trad climb.

No bolts. Trad climb.

Trad climb (E2, E5, E5, E4, E6), starting on the very right of 'Tiger Wall', into the obvious corner. See the 'Thailand and Laos Rock Climbing Guidebook' by Elke Schmitz (Basecamp Ton Sai) for a complete description.

Variant trad start to 'Caroline's Last Day P1', joins at the third bolt.

Leftmost line. No protection, use trad gear.

Veers right about halfway of 'Electric Crack'. 3 old slings in the upper section. Bring trad gear!

Trad climb, which was used to open 'Humanality'.

Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook' and 'Right Hand of Buddha' to allow toprope access.

Left of 'Short and Easy'. No bolts. Climb on toprope.

Vegan Snake can only be climbed on top rope after the route next to it is climbed and a top rope is set.

Shares anchors with 'Killer' and 'Lee Rong Hai'. No bolts, anchors only on rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

No bolts, toprope from 'Strider'.

Right of 'Monkey Gone to Heaven', sharing anchors. No bolts, toprope.

Climbs uo right of 'Back to Mani', all the way to the top of the pillar, sharing anchor with 'Money Maker'. No bolts, climb toprope.

Shares anchors with 'The Voice of Doom'. All titanium bolts.

Starts with 'King Fisher', but goes straight up the shorter anchor. 6 old slings, 1 glue-in bolt. Replace slings if you want to climb this.

Alternative second pitch of 'Britishly White'. Shares the anchor with 'Wild Thing'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Climbs the tufa system on the very right side of the wall. Hard crux for the grade. 5 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Old slings. Do not climb!

Easy variation of 'Massage Secrets' P1 and P2. Shares the same start, then moves right to jugs and up to big ledge halfway up P2 with an additional intermediate anchor. Used for guiding. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

The easiest of the new routes, with the big hole just before the anchor. Titanium bolts.

Broken hold, needs repairs and rebolting. Protected by expansion bolts.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

All titanium bolts.

The original line starts inside the cave, moving out right towards the big hole. Rebolted further to the right, climbing up straight on the right side of the cave. Titanium bolts and slings.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Hard-Headed Woman.

Starts right below the main ledge, between the fixed rope and a tree. Rebolted with titanium. 2nd pitch share anchor with Road to Damascus.

Old slings. Do not climb!

Must-do climb. Steep climbing on good holds. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Old rusty expansion bolts and slings. Do not climb!

Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

Start variation, skipping the bold start by traversing to the right from 'Up in Smoke'.

One of the best routes in Thailand, maybe the world? Take 15 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

1. Same first pitch as 'Circus Oz', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

2. Straight up over two bulges, then slightly left to the anchor on a big ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

3. Slightly left and straight up. 11 titanium bolts.

4. Towards the right through steep rock. 10 titanium bolts.

5. Short pitch to the left on sharp rock, just to reach the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend by rapping down three times with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Big moves on big holds. Getting polished, but still worth climbing. Shares the first two clips with 'Silkcat', then up right. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Climbs the tufas just right of 'The Dark Side'. Shares the same anchors. All titanium bolts.

Climbs 'Don't Worry, Be Happy', but veers right before the last clip. Maybe the classic on the crag, but needs rebolting. Last rebolting 2008, but only stainless steel glue-ins, which cannot be trusted anymore. 8 bolts, 5 slings.

Second pitch of 'Britishly White'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Up a sharp slab, following the seam to the top. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Old slings. Do not climb!

The leftmost route on this crag. Also the only one that continues past the lip of the roof and up the leaning headwall, all the way to the jungle. Not rebolted with titanium, 9 stainless steel glue-ins, 2 slings.

Starts a bit further right for an easier start, then joins 'Sans Toi'.

Starting just left of Organ Grinder, trending left towards anchor on the bulge. 3 bolts and many slings.

The lefthand 6c taking a rail/flake for the steepest bit. Reportedly not very good, but with this grade and location it was always going to get heaps of traffic. Shares anchors with 'Princess Eyes'. All titanium bolts.

9 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Good lead for beginners. polished but very doable. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Shares the start with 'Wake & Bake', then left onto the face. All titanium bolts.

Lefthand second pitch of 'Kratoy'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

1 titanium bolt, 3 slings.

Be aware that lowering from the anchor requires an extra 20m to reach the ground! 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Share anchor with 2nd pitch of Peyote.

Alternative second pitch of 'Bouts D'Nouilie'. Old slings. Do not climb!

Amazing roof climbing. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Old rusty expansion bolts and slings. Do not climb!

When descending, traverse right from the anchor of P2 about 3m to the anchor of 'Catch a Fire' P2. From there it is a 30m rap to the ground. Titanium bolts and slings.

New double-pitch left of the new route from January 2019. Shares the first three bolts on P1, then splits to the left side of the stalactite system. Anchors of P2 are 2m left of the other new route's P2 anchors. Titanium bolts and slings.

This route doesn't seem to be included in any of the guidebooks, yet. Bolted in 2019 or 2020. Please update if you have information about grade, name and bolts.

Good vertical climb on tufas and big holds. 9 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Starts at the top of 'The Sluggard Prince' and shares the anchor with P2 of 'The King and I'. Straight up for 3 clips, then crosses over P2 of 'The King and I'. Continues up right to under a small roof, then left and up to the belay cave. From the anchor it is a 60m rap to the ground. Very sustained climbing. 6 bolts, 8 slings.

Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Only first pitch rebolted with titanium (5 bolts, 3 slings). Second pitch has rusty expansion bolts.

7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Climbs the obvious corner left of the belay ledge. All titanium bolts.

Old slings. Do not climb!

Righthand variation than an extension of 'Up to You'. Veers right before the last bolt to a separate anchor a bit higher up. 30 degrees the whole way. All titanium bolts.

The original line was called 'Hot Dragon' and continued up right for another 5m at 8b grade. The old bolts have been chopped and the new shorter and easier route was called 'Half Dragon'. Some guidebooks kept the original name though.

Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Starts on Organ Grinder, then continues up, via tufa onto the wall. Mix of titanium bolts and slings.

Just left behind the tufa hanging down to 2m off the sand. Juggy rail to some tricky moves around the bulge then stem up the left side of the hanging tufa system. All titanium bolts.

Originally named 'Tales of Power' at grade 7c. Rebolted a little further right to an easier line. Some guidebooks kept the original name.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Hard only on the crux, 3 moves. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Climbs the obvious corner crack. Shares anchors with 'By Way of Deception'. All titanium bolts.

Variation of 'One Thousand Knives'. Shares the start, then further left to a separate anchor. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

All titanium bolts.

All titanium bolts.

It's crunch time! Climbs right out through the widest section of the Gibbon Roof. 8 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Old rusty expansion bolts and slings. Do not climb!

All titanium bolts.

Splits to the left about halfway up P1. All titanium bolts (P1: 9 bolts, P2: 7 bolts).

A fun climb, especially the second pitch. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

1. Also a great single-pitch climb. Steep and pumpy. Alternatively, it is possible to climb 'The Sluggard Prince' and traverse right to the anchor. 12 titanium bolts.

2. Pass the midway anchor and climb up to the next anchor inside a small cave. 11 titanium bolts.

3. Left out of the belay cave. Again, pass an old anchor and climb straight up, then left to the anchor of 'Lord of the Thais' P4. 11 titanium bolts.

4. Same as P5 of 'Lord of the Thais', sharp rock to the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings.

Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Alternative second pitch of 'Land of Smiles', but also rusty expansion bolts.

8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Shares first two slings with “Mutual of Omaha” and then goes left at the small roof.

The lefthand route on the small belay ledge, accessed by climbing up the fixed rope. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings. With an 80m rope you can belay from below. You need 17 quickdraws.

Old slings. Do not climb!

Climbs the short roof a few meters right of 'Genesis' to an anchor just above the lip. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

There seems to be the option of doing linkups via the rail 1-2m before the lip.

Old slings. Be prepared to replace.

Awesone route!! the anchor is after the sling up to the left.

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

The righmost route on the eye-catching pocketed section of rock, and possibly the best here. All titanium bolts. Share start with Half Dragon and Hot dragon.

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Starts right of the 'Wake & Bake' corner, shares the same anchor. Original start is hidden behind the shack. All titanium bolts.

Second pitch of 'Kratoy', climbs straight up. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb unless rebolted!

11 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Musang means "civet cat" in Thai. Rappelling this route is difficult. Take 15 quickdraws. Rebolted with titanium.

Stick-clip the first bolt! 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Classic first pitch! Second and third pitch overgrown. All titanium bolts.

All titanium bolts.