Diamond Cave Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Jannik Bing Brad Amos JJ Constantine Dritsas Lee Cujes Pak Ashley Moore Derek Wong Alexander Hölke

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1. Diamond Cave 28 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Diamond Cave 28 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 8.014058, 98.841769

description

Medium to good quality rock. Very, very popular with the climbing schools. Most of the main wall is lit up and climbable at night.

approach

Walk to the end of the Railay walking street. Walk around the wall and then turn left. After the road bends left, keep going straight, following directions to the Phutawan resort. You will pass the entrance to the actual Diamond cave on the left. Continue further uphill and find the crag on your left behind the Highland climbing school.

Alternatively, take the steep jungle trail connecting from Ton Sai. At Basecamp, take the road uphill, which passes 'Mama's Chicken'. Continue uphill until you pass the last bungalows. Follow the trail through the forest for about 20 min until you reach a small meadow. Pass through the high grass and continue on the small road. After a bend to the right you will see the Phutawan resort on your right. The crag is now right in front of you.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
North Face Left Side Three routes around the left corner of the main face. Old expansion bolts and slings. In the shade late afternoon.
2	★ Attic Antics Leftmost line, a few meters down the path. 7 old expansion bolts, but also many slings. Do not clip the old bolts! Set: Paul Brunner, 1997	6a+	Sport 27m, 7
3	★ Attic Antics (Variation) Lefthand variation of the top section of 'Attic Antics'. All slings. In some guidebooks, this route is confused with the original 'Attic Antics' route, and the subsequent routes are falsely labeled accordingly. Set: 2004	6a	Sport 27m
4	★ Thread of Life Loose rock. All slings. Set: Paul Brunner, 1997	6b+	Sport 27m, 10
5	★★ Jugs-o-Plenty Old expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Paul Brunner, 1997	6b	Sport 27m, 5
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
North Face The main face at 'Diamond Cave' sector. Extremely busy during climbing school hours. Not recommended to climb here between 9 am and 4 pm.
7	★ Unknown/Unnamed 2 slings, 2 bolts. Short climb just to the left of Kai Kad. Not in any of the climbing guidebooks we’ve seen but one of the local climbing instructors told us that it’s a 4.	4	Sport 8m, 4
8	★ Kai Kad Leftmost route on the main face. All titanium bolts. Set: Sarut & Wang, 2000	5	Sport 10m, 5
9	★ No Name 1 Confused with 'Run Away' in some guidebooks. 1 titanium bolt, 7 slings. Share start with IKRC-2008.	5	Sport 20m, 8
10	★★ IKRC-2008 Start climbing the No name 1, but then take the right bolt line to the higher anchor. Set: Tu & Toto, 2008	6b	Sport 30m, 12
11	★ Run Away Called 'Mr No Name' in some guidebooks. All slings. Set: Yup, 2000	5	Sport 10m, 4
12	★ Chok Dee / Chock dee Shares the start with 'Mot Daeng', then straight up the left bolt line. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Dean Saydom, 2000	6a	Sport 20m, 6
13	★ Mot Daeng Warning Fixed Gear: ! Shares the start with 'Chok Dee', then veers right. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Yup, 2000	5	Sport 20m, 6
14	★ Keep the Jam, Man Old multi-pitch climb. Rusty expansion bolts and old slings on the upper two pitch. Only climb P1, which is therefore listed as a separate route. 3 titanium bolts, 4 threads. Set: Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995 Set: Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995	7a	Sport 70m, 3, 15
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
15	★ Mosquito Coil 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Ralph Dietrich, Heide Dietrich & Vitsanu Rashsang, 1999	6a+	Sport 20m, 7
16	★★ No Name 2 Rightmost line on the main face. Confused with 'Les Petites Oreilles' in some guidebooks. Not rebolted with titanium. Stainless steel glue-ins.	6b	Sport 20m, 4
North Face Right Side Around the corner on the right. Often free, even during climbing school hours.
18	★ Nullaktion All slings. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1995	6a	Sport 21m, 5
19	Dreamteam Second pitch of 'Nullaktion'. Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Michael Hoffmann, 2002	6b+	Sport 35m, 13
20	★★ Les Petites Oreilles Called 'Diamonds are Forever' on some guidebooks, which is only the name of the second pitch. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Stefan Schmidt, 1995	6b+	Sport 20m, 7
21	★★ Diamonds are Forever Second pitch of 'Les Petites Oreilles'. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Marel Eckhardt, 1995	6b+	Sport 27m, 10
22	★★ Seven Seven Seven Warning Flora and Fauna: Insect(wasp?) nest near 3rd sling 8 slings. share anchor with Attacktit. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Aduuh, Stips & Stefan Schmidt, 1995	6c	Sport 58m, 3, 21
23	★ Attacktit Shares anchors with P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 3 titanium bolts, 6 slings. 1st pitch of Almost Heaven. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 2002	6b+	Sport 20m, 9
24	★★ Almost Heaven Second pitch of 'Attacktit'. Can also be accessed from P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 8 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Tom Cecil & John Rosholt, 1995	7a+	Sport 25m, 10
Diamond Cave Old routes at the actual Diamond Cave. Bolting status unclear, probably old expansion bolts. Anyway most certainly not anymore climbable due to the existence of the Diamond Cave National Park.
26	Unknown	6b	Sport 27m
27	★ Mr No Name	6b+	Sport 55m
28	Mrs No Name	6b+	Sport 55m
29	Lost Sock in the Laundromat of Oblivion	6b+	Sport 55m
30	★★ Bar You Tee Nai?	7a	Sport 50m
31	★★ Sixty Degrees North	7a+	Sport 25m
32	★★ Mao Say	7a+	Sport 45m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
4	★	Unknown/Unnamed	Sport 8m, 4
5	★	Kai Kad	Sport 10m, 5
	★	Mot Daeng	Sport 20m, 6
	★	No Name 1	Sport 20m, 8
	★	Run Away	Sport 10m, 4
6a	★	Attic Antics (Variation)	Sport 27m
	★	Chok Dee	Sport 20m, 6
	★	Nullaktion	Sport 21m, 5
6a+	★	Attic Antics	Sport 27m, 7
	★	Mosquito Coil	Sport 20m, 7
6b	★★	IKRC-2008	Sport 30m, 12
	★★	Jugs-o-Plenty	Sport 27m, 5
	★★	No Name 2	Sport 20m, 4
		Unknown	Sport 27m
6b+	★	Attacktit	Sport 20m, 9
	★★	Diamonds are Forever	Sport 27m, 10
		Dreamteam	Sport 35m, 13
	★★	Les Petites Oreilles	Sport 20m, 7
		Lost Sock in the Laundromat of Oblivion	Sport 55m
	★	Mr No Name	Sport 55m
		Mrs No Name	Sport 55m
	★	Thread of Life	Sport 27m, 10
6c	★★	Seven Seven Seven	Sport 58m, 3, 21
7a	★★	Bar You Tee Nai?	Sport 50m
	★	Keep the Jam, Man	Sport 70m, 3, 15
7a+	★★	Almost Heaven	Sport 25m, 10
	★★	Mao Say	Sport 45m
	★★	Sixty Degrees North	Sport 25m

Diamond Cave Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Diamond Cave 28 routes in Cliff

description

approach

North Face Left Side

North Face

North Face Right Side

Diamond Cave

2. Index by grade