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Routes in Thaiwand Wall

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Showing all 29 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
7c+
7c+ Continental Drifters
1 6b 25m
2 7a+ 20m
3 7a 37m
4 7c+ 17m

Good but not as good as 'Lord of the Thais' and 'The King and I'. Take 14 quickdraws.

  1. 6 old bolts. First two pitches are not rebolted. Better access P3 from 'Monkey Love'.

  2. 7 old bolts. See P1.

  3. Straight up over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts.

  4. Left towards the cave. 12 titanium bolts.

  5. Sharp rock to the top. 7 titanium bolts.

From the anchor of P3, it is a 60m rap to the ground with two 60m ropes.

Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1994

Sport 99m, 4, 40
7c
7c Spicy Speck Dreams

Not rebolted with titanium. All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Valentin Mak, 1994

Sport 22m, 6
7b+
7b+ The King and I
1 7a 30m
2 6a 36m
3 7b+ 38m
4 6b 12m

A fun climb, especially the second pitch. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

  1. Also a great single-pitch climb. Steep and pumpy. Alternatively, it is possible to climb 'The Sluggard Prince' and traverse right to the anchor. 12 titanium bolts.

  2. Pass the midway anchor and climb up to the next anchor inside a small cave. 11 titanium bolts.

  3. Left out of the belay cave. Again, pass an old anchor and climb straight up, then left to the anchor of 'Lord of the Thais' P4. 11 titanium bolts.

  4. Same as P5 of 'Lord of the Thais', sharp rock to the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Set: Sam Lightner, Jacob Valdez & Somporn Suebhait, 1992

Sport 120m, 4, 37
7b+ Orange Juice

Straight up into the orange pocketed wall. All titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Jay Hanvik, 1992

Sport 22m, 6
7b
7b Lord of the Thais
1 6a+ 25m
2 7a 28m
3 7a+ 28m
4 7b 27m
5 6b 12m

One of the best routes in Thailand, maybe the world? Take 15 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

  1. Same first pitch as 'Circus Oz', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  2. Straight up over two bulges, then slightly left to the anchor on a big ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

  3. Slightly left and straight up. 11 titanium bolts.

  4. Towards the right through steep rock. 10 titanium bolts.

  5. Short pitch to the left on sharp rock, just to reach the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend by rapping down three times with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Sport 120m, 5, 46
7b Out of Sticks

Original grade was 7a+. Upgraded to 7b after a hold broke off. Shares the start with 'Caveman', then left straight over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1994

Sport 27m, 9
7b Inaka
1 5a 15m
2 7a 16m
3 7b 15m
4 7a 50m
5 6b+ 28m

This route is a mess. Don't do it. There is a lot of loose rock and sharpies that can cut your rope. Also no rebolting since 1996.Take 15 quickdraws and extra threads if you're really keen... Shares the first pitch with 'Organ Grinder', then left into the cave.

Set: Kaori Tauji & Koji Okumura, 1996

Sport 120m, 5
7b Equatorial
1 6c 35m
2 7b 15m

Great first pitch up the arete.

  1. 11 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  2. 6 titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1994

Sport 50m, 2, 19
7a+
7a+ Taming the East

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1984

Sport 20m, 7
7a+ Caveman
1 6a+ 15m
2 7a+ 17m

Shares the start with 'Out of Sticks', then further right up the crack. Can be climbed as one pitch. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Sport 32m, 2, 12
7a
7a Circus Oz
1 6a+ 25m
2 6b+ 25m
3 7a 45m
4 6b 28m

Popular and will get you as far of the deck as you will get in this area. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes. Be aware that the upper pitches are not rebolted with titanium!

  1. Same first pitch as 'Lord of the Thais', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  2. Stay left of the bolts, up into the cave. Find the anchor just right above the anchor of 'Continental Drifters' P2. 4 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

  3. Crux pitch. Quite fun if you have the means. Move left, then up over the bulge. 7 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 4 slings.

  4. Sharp rock to the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Take care. A fall on the last bit of the last pitch could be very dangerous, because there is some sharp rock and you're falling into a dihedral. 7 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 4 slings.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Set: M. Matheson, G, R. Smith & G. Tempest

Sport 120m, 4, 41
7a Healthy Shake

Right of 'Equatorial'. Hard crux into the small roof. Grade not confirmed. Titanium bolts.

Set: Rock and Sun

FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

Sport 12m
7a Live and Let Thai
1 5a 15m
2 7a 10m

Climb as one pitch. Not rebolted with titanium. 6 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Sport 25m, 2, 9
6c
6c Organ Grinder
1 5a 15m
2 6c 10m

Usually climbed as one pitch. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1993

Sport 25m, 2, 11
6b+
6b+ Sanuked

Starts at the top of 'The Sluggard Prince' and shares the anchor with P2 of 'The King and I'. Straight up for 3 clips, then crosses over P2 of 'The King and I'. Continues up right to under a small roof, then left and up to the belay cave. From the anchor it is a 60m rap to the ground. Very sustained climbing. 6 bolts, 8 slings.

Set: Edward Darling & Ed, 2001

Sport 40m, 14
6b+ Getting to know youu

Awesone route!! the anchor is after the sling up to the left.

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner & Jacob Valdez, 1993

Sport 30m, 12
6b+ Solution 41

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Share anchor with Primal Scream.

Set: Gordon Brysland & Terry Schmidt, 1994

Sport 18m, 5
6b
6b The Sluggard Prince

1 expansion bolt, 12 slings. Share anchor with Sanuked.

Set: Gordon Brysland & Olle Welin, 1994

Sport 28m, 13
6b Mala Mujer

Good vertical climb on tufas and big holds. 9 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Sport 30m, 12
6b Maja Mujer

This is the wrong name and the route is already listed here as “Mala Mujer”. I tried to merge them since you can’t delete the route but the option is not possible from my account.

FA: Pep Masip, 1995

Sport 32m, 13
6b Monkey Love

Exposed line through the tufa system. All slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Maint: Rock and Sun, Jan 2023

Sport 25m, 7
6b Hiroshi's Revenge

Starts on Organ Grinder, then continues up, via tufa onto the wall. Mix of titanium bolts and slings.

Set: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

Sport 26m
6a+
6a+ Fit to be Thaid

A little sharp but otherwise fun climbing

Set: Sam Lightner & Greg Collum, 1992

Sport 25m, 12
6a+ No Name 1

Unnamed route between 'Orange Juice' and 'Live & Let Thai'.

Sport
6a+ Primal Scream

Polished rock. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Share anchor with Solution 41.

Set: Greg Collum & Jeff, 1992

Sport 15m, 7
6a
6a Sun

Starting just left of Organ Grinder, trending left towards anchor on the bulge. 3 bolts and many slings.

Set: Rock and Sun

FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

Sport 15m, 10
6a It

Titanium bolts. Shared anchor with 'Healthy Shake'.

Set: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

Sport 12m
5
5 Up

The easiest of the new routes, with the big hole just before the anchor. Titanium bolts.

Set: Rock and Sun

FA: Rock and Sun, Mar 2019

Sport 12m, 4
4
4 Twenty Kilos of Steel

Access route to the big cave connecting 'Thaiwand Wall' and 'Escher World'. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Set: Dean Saydom, 1992

Sport 15m, 5

Showing all 29 routes.

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