Routes as sport in Thailand

Follow fixed red draw to go straight up until climb over the ledge then turn right for 1 more thread. The anchor is around the corner at right. Have fixed draw for all the thread, only need one quick draw for the only one bolt.

Climb Diana Ross to the ledge and then left into the horizontal roof for Gladiator finish. Shares anchor with Diana Ross Extension. Has fixed draws.

Climb Diana Ross to the ledge and then keep right to the Diana Ross anchor and then climb through the roof using fixed draws. Shares anchor with Gladiator.

Short crux in the roof. Start and finish easier. 5 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Shares same start as Blood Moon then climb right through roof/crack.

Shares same start as Blood Moon, after overhang section, climb left through small roof.

Starts in the corner. Finish at anchor left of Carrie on.

Start on tufa. Finish on anchor to the right of The Stoneman

Starts up the ladder, left of 'Lizard King'.

Starts up the ladder, right of 'Queen of the Highway'.

Left of 'Natalie'. All slings. Appears to have a two sling extension.

Obvious line behind tufa curtains. The crux, which is well protected, is getting to the anchor. There are two easier second pitches which continue on from the top of this route. Maybe bring a bottle of water and do all three. The belay station for the second pitches is comfortable. All three routes, this one and the two vertically above it, are always in the shade and almost immune to rainfall.

3 bolts, 7 slings. Starts at the anchor/platform of Natalie and goes left. There is a big cave at the top of this route, 40m above the ground, it has a nice view and is a good place to hang out.

Starts at the anchor/platform of Natalie and goes right. It is a bit harder than the route called Luke, which starts and ends at the same place.

Climb up and right, follow blue slings, anchor on right below roof. Top rope is highly recommended for draws cleaning.

Three slings extension. Climbs leftwards through overhang.

Shares the first bold with The Fortress, then climb left. Big jugs and awesome moves up gentle overhang, followed by 3D tufa fun!

Shares the first bold with Kung Fu Panda, then climb right. 3D tufa quest. Has fixed draws all the way. Be ready to climb in all directions on your journey! Up, left, right, and down.

Short and sweet!

6 clips

Short and spicy!

5 Green slings through bulging roof. Top out to standing on ledge.

Pumpy and SUPER fun! Reminds me of Tidal Wave. Fixed red draws 😁👍

Long and fun! 14 clips

Tufa fun!

Pitch 1, 18 metres, 6a. Climb up ladder, move left, up corner to ledge. 4 slings, 5 bolts.

Pitch 2, 12 metres, 5c. Traverse left horizontally, along 3D tufa ledge, anchor around corner. 7 Slings.

Pitch 3. 22 metres, 6a. Climb straight up slab/corner, finish in glorious cave room. 7 Slings, 4 bolts.

The perfect beginner multipitch, friendly and fun!

Rapel. 70 metre rope just reaches the ground, from top, tie knots in ends. If using 60 metre rope stop at midway anchor.

Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined into one mega pitch.

All Titanium Bolts.

Up the ladder, into the slabby dihedral, then the left across the tufas towards a steep pumpy finish. Be careful with brittle rock! 9 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Awesome, fun, pumpy!

Watch out for small breaky holds as new climb, needs some time to settle.

3 Titanium Bolts 8 Slings

Stay left at crux for 7b. Don't go right is 6a.

Climb as one pitch, 28m to the ground from the top. 11 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Take 19 draws, you can get by with 17 if you use the anchors…

On the right side of 'Life of Leif'. 9 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Everybody likes Sushi!

Extension, can access via Sushi or Wasabi.

3 Titanium bolts.

Start on top of pedestal. After vertical crack traverse right stepping across gap and continue right and up the tufa systems.

Same start as "Dazed and Confused", head left into openbook corner, continue left up face with thin tufa to anchor.

Same start as "Red Lining", head left into openbook corner, continue right up face with big tufa to anchor of "Dazed and Confused".

Grade need be settled. Please mark your point (6c or 6c+) when adding ascent.

Same start "Red Lining"/"Dazed and Confused", climb left via crazy Superman-Dyno to big hole. SS Expansion bolts installed 7/5/2021. Grade needs confirmation, please try! F.A. Victor, 18/08/2023

Up the ladder. Gives access to 'Vagabonds of the Western World' and 'Tangled up in Blue'.

Left route starting from the left belay anchor on the Rock'n Roll ledge. Access via 'Motor City Madhouse'.

Right route starting from the left belay anchor on the Rock'n Roll ledge. Access via 'Motor City Madhouse'.

Leftmost route on the right side of the Rock'n Roll ledge. Access via 'Motor City Madhouse' and traversing right along the fixed rope.

Center line starting from the right belay anchor on the Rock & Roll ledge. Access via 'Motor City Madhouse' and traversing right along the fixed rope.

From the anchor of Motorcity Madhouse traverse right via the fixed rope to another set of anchors. Take the right line of bolts from there, the route climbs up and right of the huge stalactite above the belay.

1st climb to left of "Playing with Madness". Climb past 3 bolts, step over ledge clipping slings, traverse around/out onto bulging face and arete to finish.

The straight line to the right anchor on the Rock'n Roll ledge, up the white face. All titanium bolts.

Shares first jug-hold on 'Playing With Madness', immediately head right, then up face towards tufa. Crimpy, dynamic and fun.

9 titanium bolts.

Open Project! Please try !

Must-do climb! Climbs the obvious corner right of 'MadMax'. Jugs and bridging, slightly polished footholds. All titanium bolts.

Start up over hang and exit lip bridging and straight up arete. Shares anchor with, left hand climb, 'Keep Your Self Alive'.

Shares the start with 'Heartbreaker', then left towards the cave after the 4th clip and up on the inside of the pillar. Rejoins with 'Heartbreaker' after the 10th clip. 9 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

Shares the start with 'Thunderstruck'. Veers right after the 4th clip into the white tufa pipes. Rejoins with 'Thunderstruck' about halfway. 5 titanium bolts, 12 slings.

Straight up the steep orange-white rock into the white tufa pipes. Joins up with 'The Passenger' about halfway. 6 titanium bolts, 9 slings.

Climbs up on orange tufas, 3m right of 'Spanish Caravan'. Then slightly left to join 'Spanish Caravan' on the ledge about halfway. 8 titanium bolts, 10 slings.

Easy sustained climbing all the way to the roof, a perfect warm up. It's the second to last route at the sector (starts left of "The End"). At the anchor it's possible to continue into "Freebird". 9 bolts, 4 slings

Same start as The End for 6 bolts, then go left.

New line about 5m right of 'The Passenger', on structured brown and white rock. Fun moves on crimps towards the anchor. Titanium bolts and slings.

Left most route at Reservoir. Starts on juggy holds, move right 3rd bolt(crux).

Bouldery start, on slopes followed by jugs, followed by more slopes followed my more jugs... And so on untill you reach the anchor

Bolder first bolt (crux), followed by glorious climbing on jugs and slopes to anchor.

Named after the climbing gym in Singapore. Steep-pumpy-start, traversing right on jugs(crux), followed by lovely face climbing above. 13 quick draws (including anchor)

Absolutely classic, the best 8a on Krabi mainland. Bouldery start followed by beautiful dynamic-crimp-fest! Stick clip first bolt!

Steep n Crimpy!

Big Badass Roof!

Super good climbing - absolute classic! 😅

Start left big tree. Tricky left Traverse 3rd clip(crux).

Juggy, Steep, exposed, fun!

Tope rope only still bolting - has Perma top rope.

Can access from Si Sig(6b) then traverse Chill Out Ledge on fixed ropes.

Start right of tree. Jugs, tufas, so fun!

This is the easiest access route to Chill Out Ledge and Panorama Wall above.

Overhang start, then up tufa corner. Amazing classic!

Make your way up a huge flake which turns into off-width/chimney climbing. This route is the epitome of "Type 2" fun, and has a very unique style of climbing for Thailand.

You'll need at least a 50m rope and 10 draws. You can rap off the second pitch anchor all the way to the ground using a 70m rope (tie knots in ends). In the shade around 15:00 in high season, around 14:00 in low season. All titanium bolts.

Left most route on the balcony. Meanders left around the corner then straight up. Interesting moves and technical climbing on mostly vertical rock. A must do!

Second route from the left. Follow the spine (finger crack) up to the roof. Technical face climbing with fun moves.

Extension of Spinal Tap. Keep climbing up the roof crack. Sustained bouldery sequence all the way to the anchor.

Fun technical climbing that makes it's way through two roof cracks. Make sure you have your beta dialed or you will take flight.

How will your amygdala respond, will it be fight, or flight? Climb up the crack, then at the no hands rest (6th bolt) head left. Shares the first 6 bolts and anchor with "Thalamus".

Climb up the crack, then at the no hands rest (6th bolt) head right. This route has it all, cracks, hand-jams, slabs and a tufa to finish it off. Use your Thalamus, and keep those motor skills moving along. Shares the first 6 bolts and anchor with "Amygdala".

Starts on the very right of the balcony. After the 4th bolt (at the cave) stay left. Great technical finger-tweaking moves on vertical rock. Shares the first 4, last bolt and Anchor with "Dopamine".

Starts on the very right of the balcony. After the 4th bolt (at the cave) stay right. Great technical climbing on thin finger cracks. Shares the first 4, last bolt and Anchor with "Adrenaline".

FUN DEE

Dream Wall, Ao Nang

6b+, 138m (Plus 7a+ bonus 12m pitch)

Approach:

Follow the fixed line to the right all the way to the first bolt. The route is located left of the tree stump.

1. 30m, 15 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10c (6b) Start on okay rock past a stump. Then into great but tricky white pockets and side pulls. Belay at slot ledge.

2. 30m, 15 bolts 5.10b (6a+) Start in steep exposed climbing to a good rest and then up fantastic rock. Belay at nice hanging ledge 7m below the 420 bivy cave.

3. 25m, 13 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10a (6a) Climb more great rock past the 420 cave and through the chute. Back clean a draw or two to avoid drag. Belay at a hanging rap station OR move belay left to nicer ledge (must build own anchor on two bolts)

4. 30m, 14 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10d (6b+) Trend left to steep pocket cruxy move. Then some steep tuffa. Belay at a sharp ledge.

5. 23m, 9 bolts, 1 sling, 5.10b (6a+) Starts sharp and gets good with a cruxy compression move up high. Sick stem finale out to the mega diving board (which has free wifi)!

6. (bonus pitch) 12m, 5 bolts, 2 slings, 5.12a (7a+) Steep exposed tufa!

Make sure to sign the summit register when reaching the platform.

Descent:

6-5: lower to the diving board

5-4: abseil

4-3: swing right to anchor with ring

3-2: back clip in chute to stay in close to the wall (important!)

2-1: swing right to reach slot

1-ground: abseil

Required:

16 draws Single 60m rope Long anchor sling (optional)

2 pitches. Total 20 titanium bolts. 70m rope will make to ground on rope stretch. Put knots in ends.

Can climb as one long single pitch. There is mid way anchor if needed. Helmet for belayer recommended.

Easy Access: Park at very end of street. Walk upstairs into restaurant. Wave and smile at Thai owners. Pass a helicopter on right side, continue up more stairs, Pass small swimming pool on left. Leave concrete to dirt trail, head diagonally up slope only 20m to start of route. Approach time 2 min.

Epic 40m journey! Can get lowered on a small tower with a 70m rope, but absolutely nothing shorter.

Overhang to jams to lieback to slab to vertical to... Awesome!

Second pitch of Jungle Funk. Beautiful line on beautiful rock. Looks like a 3-stars route. Someone needs to climb this and confirm the grade and awesomeness (and update this description), get on it!

One of the best climbs in Thailand according to Jonas and Nikki, especially the 2nd pitch.

One of the best climbs in Thailand according to Jonas and Nikki, especially the 2nd pitch.

Belay from the lower ledge.

3 pitch adventure route on bolts, with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and sea. Share start with Valhalla, 2nd pitch share anchor with Elysium Extension.

Share start with 5 Star, share anchor with Elysium.

Share anchor with Valhalla.

Extension to the second anchor of '5 Star'

Access by a fixed line. Shares the start with 'Flowzone'.

Access by a fixed line. Shares the start with 'Over the Falls'.

Starts on a small ledge accessed by a fixed rope.

Belay anchor at the start, accessed by a fixed rope.