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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
olivier Bernii Brendan Heywood Sjors DS Nick Weicht Will Valentyn Kotelnikov Kai Sergey Dashkevich
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Table of contents
- 1.
Indian Man / Sleeping Indian
160 in Cliff
- 1.1. Sektor Ay 10 in Cliff
- 1.2. Ejderha 13 in Cliff
- 1.3. Can Baba 57 in Cliff
- 1.4. Uzak Zürafa 30 in Cliff
- 1.5. Shaman 35 in Cliff
- 1.6. Papinosaure 6 in Cliff
- 1.7. Nastrolopitheque 9 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Indian Man 160 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 36.725082, 27.619802
description
Do you see the head? Legend has it that two brothers were fighting on the Datça peninsula. To stop the fighting, the father laid down between the 2, separating the peninsula and creating peace. Today, we just see his face when driving towards Datça...
Indian Man is the epicenter of climbing in Datça with multiple sectors and hundreds of routes in all grades. The cave of Can Baba, for many the reason to visit Datça, can be found here as well as Uzak Zürafa with its many long and mostly easier routes. Cold days are great for the sectors Shaman, Papinosaure and Nastrolopitheque.
For those who love a short approach check out Sektor Ay at the bottom of the valley. A sunny cliff with routes in many grades is Ejderha, located just below Can Baba and also easy to reach from Sektor Ay by following the cliff line up.
Although you might be tempted to climb at Indian Man only during your visit, do not forget to check out them many other cliffs located around Datça.
approach
From Datça drive in direction of Marmaris until you reach Reşadiye (about 5km from the center of Datça). At the traffic light take a left in direction of Knidos and the ferry for Bodrum. Shortly after that, follow the signs for Knidos (take a left in direction West) and follow the road for about 2km until you see a Y-junction turn off on your left on a dirt road (there might be a sign for Yeşil Bahçe). Follow this dirt road until you see a big camp / picknick area on the right and a turn-off to the left that leads down to the wash. Park either here (36.72888, 27.62483) or continue across the wash and for about 100 meters to the parking along the road (just very few spots) (36.72393, 27.62276).
Follow the details for each sector from here.
ethic
You are in a mediterranean environment with sometimes strong winds and dry forrests. It is absolutely forbidden to make fires or camp in the nature. Any wrong doing might result in closing of this beautiful climbing spot!
New bolting should only be done using stainless steel glue-in bolts!
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1.1. Sektor Ay 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.725083, 27.621900
description
Ay means moon in Turkish. This sector offers perfect vertical rock full of minipockets, sometimes sharp, great technical climbing with a very short approach. The sector is in the sun almost all day but the base is shaded by trees.
approach
You have 2 choices to approach this cliff. If you are already up at the cave follow the trail down along the cliff passing at sector Ejderha and leading further down. It is relatively well marked. Eventually it will lead you to Sektor Ay.
If you just want to climb at Sektor Ay, you may as well park as for Can Baba. Then enter the wash and hike downstream for about 50m until you find a well marked trail going up left and leading you to the sector.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Les spaghettis du paradis
Set: olivier | 6b | 25m | |||||
2 |
Susadım
Set: Fabrice Pini | 6b+ | 35m, 17 | |||||
3 |
Ay
Set: Fabrice Pini | 6c+ | 33m | |||||
4 |
Macarnator
Set: olivier | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
5 |
★★ Bonfile pene
Set: olivier | 6b | 27m | |||||
6 |
★★ Köfte party
Set: olivier | 6a+ | 27m, 14 | |||||
7 |
Pure Pocket
The name says it all! Set: olivier | 6c+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Isviçre peyniri / Swiss cheese
Pockets all the way. Set: Carla Häsler & olivier | 6c | 18m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Süper karga
Start left of the big grey tufa, just behind the tree. Set: olivier | 6b | 18m, 8 | |||||
10 |
★★ Rüyalar rutubetli
Goes up right of the big grey tufa and right of the tree. Set: Yannick Bonnin | 6a+ | 15m, 7 |
1.2. Ejderha 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.725706, 27.620834
description
Ejderha means dragon in Turkish. Long slabs and vertical grey rock full of pockets, not only ideal for beginners… A good place for colder days but the base is not the most comfortable one, especially for kids.
approach
Hike up as for Can Baba and follow the cliff down for a little bit on the far right side.
Alternatively you may hike up from Sektor Ay along the cliff.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Parmak rendesi
Goes up left of the big crack following the ramp. Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
2 |
Canavar
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 8a | 35m | |||||
3 |
★★ Gamba gamba
Set: Torsten Hans, Jan 2015 | 7a | 25m | |||||
4 |
★ Drilling instructor
Set: Torsten Hans, Jan 2015 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
5 |
Dans le pantalon
Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★ Dişsiz
Set: olivier, Dec 2014 | 5c+ | 35m | |||||
7 |
★★ Variante
Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 6a | 35m | |||||
8 |
Furie Nocturne
Set: olivier, Dec 2014 | 6b+/c | 35m | |||||
9 |
Ejderha
Set: olivier, Dec 2014 | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
10 |
Black Block
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7 | 20m | |||||
11 |
Bread and roses
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7c+ | 15m | |||||
12 |
4 in a pocket
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7 | 20m | |||||
13 |
YetToBeNamed_02
Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014 | 7b+ | 15m |
1.3. Can Baba 57 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.725916, 27.620394
description
The Big cave, dedicated to the really famous Turkish poet Can Ucel, Can Baba is one of the most impressive tufa caves around. The bottom of the cliff is super comfortable and well protected from rain.
The left side of the cave (starting with "Knidos") is first in the shade, the right, south facing side (starting with "Bouldervar") is in the shade from mid-afternoon on.
approach
From the parking for Indian Man hike back until the road is closest to the wash and look out for cairns to find a well marked trail crossing the wash and leading up to the cliff.
Alternatively you may also hike up from Sektor Ay on a steeper trail along the cliff.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Milkyway
Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 7c+ | 45m, 20 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Solucan
An epic and endless ride along the single black tufa. Set: Adam Okrasinski & olivier, Oct 2014 | 8a | 45m | |||||
3 |
Esperanto
Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 8c | 45m, 21 | |||||
4 |
Busca show L1
Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8b | 30m, 9 | |||||
5 |
Busca show L2
Full length of Busca show, pass right at the anchor. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8c+ | 70m | |||||
6 |
★★ Chere Mobilière
A short, technical climb with a sting at the end. Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 7c | 18m, 7 | |||||
7 |
Kebabomaniac
Takes a "loop" to the right on some of the same holds as Black Hole before following the tufa up high. Set: olivier, Feb 2015 | 8a+ | 32m, 15 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ Black Hole
Another classic at the entrance of the cave. An awesome combination of technical climbing with a low crux leads to some great, sometimes reachy moves on often good holds before a heart-breaking finish to the black hole... Set: Werner Luneau, 2014 | 7c+ | 34m, 12 | |||||
9 |
Fire in the black hole L2
Extension 1 of Black Hole. Climbs 9 more bolts from pitch 1. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8a | 55m, 21 | |||||
10 |
Fire in the black hole L3
Extension of "Fire in the black hole L2". Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 65m | |||||
11 |
Radio Datça
Set: Benjamin Coup, Nov 2015 | 7c+ | 35m, 11 | |||||
12 |
Breizh île
Extension of "Radio Datça". Initially graded 8b+ but after a hold broke regraded to 8c by Gé Pouvreau. FFA: Gé Pouvreau Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8c | 50m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Knidos
Starts on the same short slab as "Datça Rodeo" but takes the left line of bolts after that. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 7c | 35m, 14 | |||||
14 |
Necke moyen to beguen tôl
Extension of Knidos. Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 70m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Datça Rodeo
Starts behind the olive tree with a short slab before the action kicks in. Great tufa climbing for the full length high into the cave. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7b+ | 35m, 17 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Yelmek
Set: Fabrice Pini, 2014 | 7b+ | 24m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Üstsüz
Same first 3 bolts as Yelmek, then go right. Set: Fabrice Pini, 2014 | 7b | 26m | |||||
18 |
Tubular Bell
A variant of Üstsüz branching out right at the tufas. Set: Michel Piola | 7b | 14 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Il giardino del sirena
Set: Emrah Özbay, 2013 | 7b+ | 28m | |||||
20 |
★★★ See you next life
Extension 1 of "Il giardino del sirena" (2nd pitch). Set: olivier, Sep 2014 | 7c | 35m | |||||
21 |
Out of next life
This is the line to an anchor just before the hard crux of "Out of energy" (3rd pitch). FA: Adrien Boulon | 8a+ | ||||||
22 |
Out of energy
Extension of "Out of next life" (4th pitch). Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9a | 55m | |||||
23 |
Out of energy - variant
A right variant of "Out of energy". Climb the first few bolts including the hard crux and then follow the right line of expansion bolts. Set: Sébastien Bouin | 9a+ | ||||||
24 |
Brocoli extension
Extension of "Out of energy" (5th pitch). Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9a | 70m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Rüzgar
The line starting with the obvious pockets. Set: olivier, 2013 | 7b+ | 27m, 11 | |||||
26 |
Toprak
Extension of Rüzgar. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8a | 45m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Meltem
Set: olivier & Evren Kirazli, 2013 | 7b/b+ | 27m, 14 | |||||
28 |
★★★ Meltemosore
Extension of Meltem. Shares the anchor with "Zaman". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8a | 45m, 22 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★★★ Turkish Moon
Going up through the almost white crescent. Set: Werner Luneau & Adrien Boulon, Nov 2014 | 8c | 30m, 16 | |||||
30 |
★★★ Helmet and Katana
The route name is written on the rock. Finishes at the big hole, watch out for the owl that might live in there . Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 8a | 30m, 13 | |||||
31 |
★★★ Zaman
Extension of "Helmet and Katana". Shares the anchor with "Meltemosore". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8b | 45m, 19 | |||||
32 |
Limit of explosion
Right extension of "Helmet and Katana" (2nd pitch). Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9a | 55m | |||||
33 |
Over the limite
Extension of "Limit of explosion" (3rd pitch). Grade to be confirmed. Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014 | 9b | 70m | |||||
34 |
★★ Çeşme
Starts with a slabby section followed by technical climbing and a short, steeper section with tufas to the anchor. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6c+ | 23m, 12 | |||||
35 |
★ Kumpir
Goes up the vertical section inside the cave. Set: olivier, 2014 | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
36 |
★★★ Fort comme un tuc
Same start as "Can Baba" but then head left before the anchor, to the big hole and the anchor of "Helmet and Katana". Set: Adrien Boulon, Feb 2015 | 8b+ | 30m, 13 | |||||
37 |
★★ Zor
Climb "Fort comme un tuc" and the extension called Zaman to make it Zor. Shares the anchor with "Meltemosore". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8b+/c | 45m, 19 | |||||
38 |
★★★ Can Baba
The classic line at the bottom of the cave. Follows the line left of the obvious tufa. A must do. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 6c+ | 25m, 9 | |||||
39 |
★★★ Big Can Baba
Extension of "Can baba". Climbs to the anchor of "Keurban". Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 8b+ | 40m, 18 | |||||
40 |
★★ Liquide comme une flaque
Just to the right of Can Baba on the less structured wall. Set: Benjamin Coup, Feb 2015 | 7b+ | 25m, 8 | |||||
41 |
★★ What the mic mac
Straight up and then a bit right trending to the anchor just below the big hole. Initially graded 7c. In 2021 a hold broke, making it rather 7c+. Set: olivier, 2014 | 7c+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
42 |
Big Mac
Extension of "What the mic mac". Continues just right of the big hole to join "Big Can Baba" and climbs to the anchor of "Keurban". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8b/b+ | 45m, 18 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
43 |
★★★ Bouldervar
Start off to the right of the big massive penis like hanging tufa through a small roof, sustain with a crux in the middle. Set: Werner Luneau & Nicolas Nastorg, 2014 | 7c+ | 28m, 11 | |||||
44 |
★★★ Keurban
Extension of Bouldervar. Climbs to the anchor of Big Can Baba. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015 | 8a+ | 45m | |||||
45 |
★★★ Testere
Powerful and tricky. Shares the anchor with "La française des vieux". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Jan 2015 | 7c | 28m, 9 | |||||
46 |
★★ La française des vieux
Left trending line with awesome technical and poweful climbing. Shares the anchor with Testere. Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8a | 28m, 8 | |||||
47 |
★★ Kanunsuz
Starts between the first dark grey slabby tufas at the bottom of the wall and passes left of the stalagtite before the anchor. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7a | 17m, 7 | |||||
48 |
★★★ A muerte bicho
Extension of Kanunsuz. Shares anchor with "Limit of explosion". Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 55m | |||||
49 |
★★★ Rockumantary
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c | 25m, 11 | |||||
50 |
★★★ Mediteranean Dream
Another classic of the cave. Follow the line left of the round, dark grey tufa, then pass between the tufas to reach the last tricky section of the climb. This climb offers all styles in one! Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 8a | 33m, 12 | |||||
51 |
★★ Live like Jay
Same start as Nefs but then left. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7b | 24m, 11 | |||||
52 |
★★★ Nefs
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7c | 32m, 15 | |||||
53 |
★★★ Freed From Desire
Extension of "Nefs". Goes up high to the top of the cave in the grey streak. Set: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017 FA: Florence Pinet, 2018 | 8a+ | 50m, 2 | |||||
54 |
Kayıp Aphrodite
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 8b+ | 33m, 15 | |||||
55 |
★★★ Medusa
Initially graded 7c but downgraded by Zorbey to 7b+. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014 | 7b+ | 35m, 15 | |||||
56 |
Gorgon
Extension of Medusa. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun | 8a+ | 45m | |||||
57 |
★★★ Vendeta
Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 8a | 32m, 15 |
1.4. Uzak Zürafa 30 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.725313, 27.619810
description
Sector ranging from well bolted slabs for beginners to vertical and technical routes with some hard extensions. The left side of the cliff stays in the sun till late morning while the right side, closer to Can Baba, sees shade a bit earlier.
approach
Same as for Can Baba. Uzak Zürafa is actually the first sector you reach where the trail hits the impressive cliff. Some routes on the left but most to the right in direction Can Baba.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Aphrodite
First pitch shares anchor with "Just perfect". This route has potential to be continued further up to the top of Indian Man. | 6b | 87m, 3, 15 | |||||
2 |
★★ Just perfect
Runnels and pockets all the way on this long journey to the anchor of Aphrodite. Can obviously also be used as alternative pitch 1 to access pitch 2 of Aphrodite. Set: Anja Becan, Nov 2014 | 6b | 37m, 14 | |||||
3 |
★★ Gospa vrtnarka
Set: Anja Becan, Nov 2014 | 6a | 35m, 14 | |||||
4 |
★★ Vieux Briscards
Water runnels and pockets all the way... Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 6a | 33m, 14 | |||||
5 |
★★ Les pères Noel
Starts where the path arrives at the rock. Just left of the bigger tree growing out of the rock. Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016 | 5c | 35m, 14 | |||||
6 |
★★ Lodos
Glue-in bolts all the way... Set: olivier, 2013 | 5c | 40m, 13 | |||||
7 |
★★ Salim
Just a few meters to the right of Lodos on expansion bolts. Starts just left of the tree going to a big undercling flake and meanders the way up high. Set: olivier, 2013 | 5c | 35m, 14 | |||||
8 |
★★ Full Pocket
Hike up a few meters and go left on the small ramp / ledge to a line of glue-ins. Set: olivier | 6a | 30m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★ What da funk
Nice climbing on grey rock followed by some tufa style pockets. Set: Evren Kirazli, 2013 | 6a+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
10 |
★ Baslamah
Easier climbing to a distinct crux higher up. Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 6b+ | 30m, 12 | |||||
11 |
★★ Göslamah
Follow the crack line and then trend slightly left. Set: Rafsta, 2014 | 6a+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
12 |
★ R.A.T
Another line of glue-ins, starting on grey rock and after 4, 5 bolts continuing on yellowish and reddish rock. Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 6a+/b | 20m, 10 | |||||
13 |
★★ Uzak Zurafa
The route that has the big, deep hole just above bolt 2. Climb the grey slab up to an orange section where the crux is. Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 6b+ | 35m, 13 | |||||
14 |
★★ Acipayam
Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 7a | 25m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Piolet
Same start as "Ilegal Man" but continues left at the 2nd last bolt. Set: Michel Piola | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
16 |
★★ Ilegal Man
Technical climbing on small holds on very abrasive rock, step anywhere and climb! Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013 | 6c+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Tisane du soir
Extension of "Ilegal Man". Set: Adrien Godat | 7a+ | ||||||
18 |
★ Raki Broccoli
A technical slab climb on ‘broccoli’ features. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6c | 22m, 11 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Lonely Wolf
Starts right where you hike up the last blocks before arriving at the level of the cave. Look for some tufas left above the anchor of Dionisos. The anchor is on the vertical section. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 7a+ | 30m, 11 | |||||
20 |
★★ Fue buonito mientras duro
3 bolt extension of Lonely Wolf. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8a | 40m | |||||
21 |
Insomnio Turco
Extension of "Fue buonito mientras duro". Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8c | 60m | |||||
22 |
★★ Dionisos
Small crimps, technical climbing at its finest. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||||
23 |
★★ Efes efect
Just 2 meters right of Dionisos. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
24 |
★★ Pocket Dog
Another great technical climb, high feet, one or the other small crimp, great moves. Set: olivier, Nov 2014 | 6c | 20m, 11 | |||||
25 |
★★ Magic Room
Left extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow the left bolt-line with a small roof for this extension. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8a | 40m, 19 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Respect Datça
Middle extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the drak grey stripe from there. There is one more extension going out left and one more further right, all starting with this bolt. Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 7c+ | 37m, 18 | |||||
27 |
Nice Future
Extension of "Respect Datça". Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014 | 8c+ | 55m | |||||
28 |
★★ Hayal
Right extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the dark orange section of rock and follow the rightmost bolt-line. Set: Werner Luneau, Dec 2014 | 7c+ | 37m, 20 | |||||
29 |
★★ La Rambo
Small gastons and crimps all the way. First bolt is just under the undercling flake. Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 7a | 20m, 7 | |||||
30 |
★★ El Bronson
Another technical climb going up left of the big flake. The sting is in the last few bolts. Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014 | 7b | 22m, 9 |
1.5. Shaman 35 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.724652, 27.618721
description
Beautiful compact grey rock. This sector is high but the routes are bolted in 3 pitches, the lower pitches are between 5b and 7b, the middle ones between 6c+ and 7c, and the third ones above 7c. Great climbing for cold days as it is very sunny.
approach
Same as for "Uzak Zürafa" but just before you reach the cliff, take the obvious trail to the left, first flat and then going up along the cliff. Take the first turn-off to the right to reach the right end of Shaman, hard to miss.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Yildiz
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5b | 18m, 11 | |||||
2 |
★ Kosmos
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5c | 20m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★ Baba Zula
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5c+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
4 |
Gros chagrin
Extension of Baba Zula. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a | 50m, 23 | |||||
5 |
★ Bulut
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 5c+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
6 |
Zeki
Extension of Bulut. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 50m, 24 | |||||
7 |
★ Parfum de gitanes
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 6a | 18m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ Science friction
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6b+ | 18m, 9 | |||||
9 |
★★ El kedi
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6b | 18m, 9 | |||||
10 |
★★★ L’homme chat
Extension of "El kedi". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7a | 40m, 20 | |||||
11 |
★★ Nico3D
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6a+ | 20m, 12 | |||||
12 |
Arcator
Extension of Nico3D (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c+ | 40m, 20 | |||||
13 |
L3 Nator
Extension of Arcator (3rd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a | 55m, 25 | |||||
14 |
★ Escalator
Same start as Nico3D but right (straight) exit. Starts at the crack / broken corner just left of the bulge. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 6b | 20m, 8 | |||||
15 |
Remake up
Extension of Escalator. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a | 45m, 21 | |||||
16 |
Mercan dede
Set: olivier, Jan 2015 | 6b+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
17 |
Wazabi
Extension of Mercan dede (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7b | 40m, 21 | |||||
18 |
Orkinos
Extension of Wazabi (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with "Be brave, escape!". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 55m, 28 | |||||
19 |
★ Serial kinder
Shares anchor with "Never stop Köfteing". Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 7a | 20m, 11 | |||||
20 |
Never stop Köfteing
Shares anchor with "Serial kinder". The right route that starts in the bulge. Set: Adrien Boulon & Yannik Bonnin, Mar 2015 | 7c | 20m, 10 | |||||
21 |
★★ Zenith
Set: Yannik Bonnin, Jan 2015 | 7a | 20m, 12 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Peter Pine
Extension of Zenith. Set: Adrien Boulon, Mar 2015 | 7a+ | 40m, 22 | |||||
23 |
★★ Sulh
Set: Carla Häsler & olivier, Jan 2015 | 6b | 20m, 11 | |||||
24 |
★★ TomTom finger
Extension of Sulh (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c | 40m, 20 | |||||
25 |
Be brave, escape!
Left extension of "TomTom finger" (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with Orkinos. Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 55m, 26 | |||||
26 |
Jeux d’enfants
Right extension of "TomTom finger" (alternative 3rd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8b+ | 60m, 28 | |||||
27 |
★ Görkova
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7a+ | 33m, 12 | |||||
28 |
★ Körfezi
Extension of "Görkova". Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c | 50m, 19 | |||||
29 |
★★ Shaman
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 6c | 33m, 14 | |||||
30 |
★★★ DJ shaman
Extension of Shaman (2nd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 7c+ | 50m, 21 | |||||
31 |
Abusez moi !
Extension of "DJ shaman" (3rd pitch). Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015 | 8a+ | 70m, 30 | |||||
32 |
★★ Incantation
Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 7a+ | 33m, 14 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
33 |
★★★ Incantation Revelation
"Incantation" is a wonderful single pitch route on the right side of sector Shaman that was up opened up by Swiss climber, olivier in March 2015. Incantation Revelation is a high-quality multi-pitch extension of Incantation that continues to the top of Indian Man (The prominent cliff face in Datça). This was the first sport route that tackles the headwall in its entirety and was opened up in January of 2022 through a team effort by traveling Alaskan, German and British climbers. (Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston) Incantation Revelation can be done in three or four pitches, depending on whether or not one wants to skip the third pitch intermediate anchor. The climbing style is varied and rock quality is consistently high from top to bottom making for a wonderful climbing experience if one is able to tackle the grade. The bolt spacing is user-friendly and consistent with the president that has been on most routes in Datça. P1. 7a+, 20 bolts, 46 meters. Start up Incantation for a high-quality face climbing experience on glew-in bolts for 33 meters. Continue another 13 meters past the Incantation anchor on expansion bolts up the steep and sometimes intimidating looking face, trending slightly right near the top. Cauliflower rock may rough but there is a path through and a great deal of beautiful climbing beyond. In dry conditions you can enjoy jugs and side pulls to the right. If the tufa is seeping it may be a better option to punch straight up the face where you will discover a two bolt anchor that is located at the first large ledge in the dihedral directly above a cave. P2. 7a+/b, 14 bolts, 34 meters. Climb from the nice belay ledge and trend slightly left on steep balancey arete / inside corner moves. Pull onto high quality face climbing through vertical terrain before the angle eases off but the difficulty does not. Take your time at the ledge before firing off one last three bolt sequence at a steep arete before reaching a set of chains at a comfy belay. P3. 7a, 19 draws 44 meters. From the belay, follow bolts up the arete to a sloped ledge for an nice rest. Pull through a steep section of technical climbing before entering into a dihedral. At the 22 meter mark you will encounter a two-bolt anchor that can be used as an intermediate belay or continue for another 22 meters of 6c+ quality, steep climbing on the upper face to the top of the cliff. Descent: (Walk Off) If conditions are windy it is highly advised to walk off and avoid rope snag potential. Continue from the two bolt chain anchor at the top of the steep climbing and scramble an additional 10 meters. These fourth class moves are protected by 1 bolt and will lead to a two bolt anchor with no rap rings located beyond the top of the cliff. Walk / scramble third class terrain, trending left and uphillfor about 150 meters. Always stay within 10 meters of the ridge line until you reach the summit and be cautious not to knock loose rocks over the edge of the cliff where climbers may be located below. Continue to follow the ridge left and downhill for another 200 meters until you arrive at the saddle. From the saddle follow a trail and karens (rock piles) downhill staying roughly 10 m away from the base of the cliff and work your way to sector Nastrolopitheque. Continue on the well-established approach trail to Sektor Shaman. (Rappel) If wind is not a factor you can descend to the route using a variety of anchors from a variety of climbs including Incantation Revelation or Abusez moi ! The most straightforward is listed below. (80 meter rope) If you have an 80 meter rope rappel directly down the chain anchors of Incantation Revelation. Be sure to start with two short 22 meter raps that avoid rope snag potential. Mind your rope ends because the last last rap is a rope stretcher that will get you safely to the ramp below yet still give you a couple meters of easy scrambling before arriving at flat ground. Set: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston, 7 Feb 2022 | 7b | 120m, 3, 20 | |||||
34 |
★★ Lahmacun sokak
Same start as Incantation but directly right towards the big hole on top. Set: olivier, Mar 2015 | 6a | 35m, 15 | |||||
35 |
Dünya
Dünya - After the dog that kept us company during our stay in Datça. Starts with “Lahmacun sokak” and traverses to the right. 7b (7a+obl.) 130m. This 7th grade multipitch takes you to the upper part of the south face of Indian man. Delicate slab climbing on the good quality grey limestone and some vertical climbing on pocketed yellow rock takes you almost to the top of the wall. Bring 17 quickdraws and a 70m rope. Descent with four 35m abseils to the left to the start of the route. Note: Climbing to the top of the wall is possible if you take a few cams (BD 3, 2 and 0.2) and a kingsling. Walking down, with some easy climbing, can be done to both sides of the mountain. The descent by abseiling down is more convenient though. Set: Rosemerijn Struijk & Sjors Verberg, 26 Feb 2022 | 7b | 140m, 4, 17 |
1.6. Papinosaure 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.724590, 27.618121
description
Just around the corner from Shaman you find slabby and vertical face climbing, very well bolted ideal for beginners.
approach
Same as for "Shaman" but continue the trail up for a little bit.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Trous bas d’ours
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
2 |
Crackouille
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6b | 27m | |||||
3 |
Fabulations libre
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6b+ | 29m | |||||
4 |
Erdictator
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
5 |
Dalouz
Same start as Erdictator but then right. Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6c | 35m | |||||
6 |
Diedro
Set: olivier, Nov 2015 | 6a | 36m |
1.7. Nastrolopitheque 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 36.724888, 27.617532
description
This is a small yellow cave, slightly overhanging with a few more easy routes further left on grey rock.
approach
One of the longer approaches in Datça. Follow the now steep path from Papinosaure up until you see the obvious cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left RampThese 3 routes are left (a bit further up) of the small cave on grey rock. | ||||||||
2 |
Nastrologik
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 5a | 35m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Nastrolopitheque
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 5c | 35m | |||||
4 |
Nastral
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 6a | 35m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
CaveThese are the routes in the obvious small cave. | ||||||||
6 |
Nastronator
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8a | 40m | |||||
7 |
Nastrodamus
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7c | 20m | |||||
8 |
In nasty veritas
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 7a | 20m | |||||
9 |
Nastrophsichien
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 8b+ | 40m | |||||
10 |
Trop naz
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 40m | ||||||
11 |
Nastro le petit robot
Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015 | 40m |