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Indian Man Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 47
  • Ascents: 1,186
  • Aka: Sleeping Indian

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

olivier Bernii Sjors DS Nick Weicht Will Valentyn Kotelnikov Sergey Dashkevich

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Indian Man 160 routes in Cliff

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.725082, 27.619802

description

Do you see the head? Legend has it that two brothers were fighting on the Datça peninsula. To stop the fighting, the father laid down between the 2, separating the peninsula and creating peace. Today, we just see his face when driving towards Datça...

Indian Man is the epicenter of climbing in Datça with multiple sectors and hundreds of routes in all grades. The cave of Can Baba, for many the reason to visit Datça, can be found here as well as Uzak Zürafa with its many long and mostly easier routes. Cold days are great for the sectors Shaman, Papinosaure and Nastrolopitheque.

For those who love a short approach check out Sektor Ay at the bottom of the valley. A sunny cliff with routes in many grades is Ejderha, located just below Can Baba and also easy to reach from Sektor Ay by following the cliff line up.

Although you might be tempted to climb at Indian Man only during your visit, do not forget to check out them many other cliffs located around Datça.

approach

From Datça drive in direction of Marmaris until you reach Reşadiye (about 5km from the center of Datça). At the traffic light take a left in direction of Knidos and the ferry for Bodrum. Shortly after that, follow the signs for Knidos (take a left in direction West) and follow the road for about 2km until you see a Y-junction turn off on your left on a dirt road (there might be a sign for Yeşil Bahçe). Follow this dirt road until you see a big camp / picknick area on the right and a turn-off to the left that leads down to the wash. Park either here (36.72888, 27.62483) or continue across the wash and for about 100 meters to the parking along the road (just very few spots) (36.72393, 27.62276).

Follow the details for each sector from here.

ethic

You are in a mediterranean environment with sometimes strong winds and dry forrests. It is absolutely forbidden to make fires or camp in the nature. Any wrong doing might result in closing of this beautiful climbing spot!

New bolting should only be done using stainless steel glue-in bolts!

inherited from Datça

1.1. Sektor Ay 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.725083, 27.621900

description

Ay means moon in Turkish. This sector offers perfect vertical rock full of minipockets, sometimes sharp, great technical climbing with a very short approach. The sector is in the sun almost all day but the base is shaded by trees.

approach

You have 2 choices to approach this cliff. If you are already up at the cave follow the trail down along the cliff passing at sector Ejderha and leading further down. It is relatively well marked. Eventually it will lead you to Sektor Ay.

If you just want to climb at Sektor Ay, you may as well park as for Can Baba. Then enter the wash and hike downstream for about 50m until you find a well marked trail going up left and leading you to the sector.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Les spaghettis du paradis

Set: olivier

6b Sport 25m
2 Susadım

Set: Fabrice Pini

6b+ Sport 35m, 17
3 Ay

Set: Fabrice Pini

6c+ Sport 33m
4 Macarnator

Set: olivier

6a+ Sport 27m
5 Bonfile pene

Set: olivier

6b Sport 27m
6 Köfte party

Set: olivier

6a+ Sport 27m, 14
7 Pure Pocket

The name says it all!

Set: olivier

6c+ Sport 20m, 8
8 Isviçre peyniri / Swiss cheese

Pockets all the way.

Set: Carla Häsler & olivier

6c Sport 18m, 8
9 Süper karga

Start left of the big grey tufa, just behind the tree.

Set: olivier

6b Sport 18m, 8
10 Rüyalar rutubetli

Goes up right of the big grey tufa and right of the tree.

Set: Yannick Bonnin

6a+ Sport 15m, 7

1.2. Ejderha 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.725706, 27.620834

description

Ejderha means dragon in Turkish. Long slabs and vertical grey rock full of pockets, not only ideal for beginners… A good place for colder days but the base is not the most comfortable one, especially for kids.

approach

Hike up as for Can Baba and follow the cliff down for a little bit on the far right side.

Alternatively you may hike up from Sektor Ay along the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Parmak rendesi

Goes up left of the big crack following the ramp.

Set: olivier, Jan 2015

5c+ Sport 20m
2 Canavar

Set: olivier, Jan 2015

8a Sport 35m
3 Gamba gamba

Set: Torsten Hans, Jan 2015

7a Sport 25m
4 Drilling instructor

Set: Torsten Hans, Jan 2015

7a+ Sport 20m
5 Dans le pantalon

Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016

6c+ Sport 20m
6 Dişsiz

Set: olivier, Dec 2014

5c+ Sport 35m
7 Variante

Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016

6a Sport 35m
8 Furie Nocturne

Set: olivier, Dec 2014

6b+/c Sport 35m
9 Ejderha

Set: olivier, Dec 2014

6c+ Sport 35m
10 Black Block

Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014

7 Sport 20m
11 Bread and roses

Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014

7c+ Sport 15m
12 4 in a pocket

Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014

7 Sport 20m
13 YetToBeNamed_02

Set: Rafsta, Dec 2014

7b+ Sport 15m

1.3. Can Baba 57 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.725916, 27.620394

description

The Big cave, dedicated to the really famous Turkish poet Can Ucel, Can Baba is one of the most impressive tufa caves around. The bottom of the cliff is super comfortable and well protected from rain.

The left side of the cave (starting with "Knidos") is first in the shade, the right, south facing side (starting with "Bouldervar") is in the shade from mid-afternoon on.

approach

From the parking for Indian Man hike back until the road is closest to the wash and look out for cairns to find a well marked trail crossing the wash and leading up to the cliff.

Alternatively you may also hike up from Sektor Ay on a steeper trail along the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Milkyway

Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014

7c+ Sport 45m, 20
2 Solucan

An epic and endless ride along the single black tufa.

Set: Adam Okrasinski & olivier, Oct 2014

8a Sport 45m
3 Esperanto

Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014

8c Sport 45m, 21
4 Busca show L1

Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015

8b Sport 30m, 9
5 Busca show L2

Full length of Busca show, pass right at the anchor.

Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015

8c+ Sport 70m
6 Chere Mobilière

A short, technical climb with a sting at the end.

Set: Werner Luneau, 2014

7c Sport 18m, 7
7 Kebabomaniac

Takes a "loop" to the right on some of the same holds as Black Hole before following the tufa up high.

Set: olivier, Feb 2015

8a+ Sport 32m, 15
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Black Hole

Another classic at the entrance of the cave. An awesome combination of technical climbing with a low crux leads to some great, sometimes reachy moves on often good holds before a heart-breaking finish to the black hole...

Set: Werner Luneau, 2014

7c+ Sport 34m, 12
9 Fire in the black hole L2

Extension 1 of Black Hole. Climbs 9 more bolts from pitch 1.

Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015

8a Sport 55m, 21
10 Fire in the black hole L3

Extension of "Fire in the black hole L2".

Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015

8b+ Sport 65m
11 Radio Datça

Set: Benjamin Coup, Nov 2015

7c+ Sport 35m, 11
12 Breizh île

Extension of "Radio Datça". Initially graded 8b+ but after a hold broke regraded to 8c by Gé Pouvreau.

FFA: Gé Pouvreau

Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015

8c Sport 50m
13 Knidos

Starts on the same short slab as "Datça Rodeo" but takes the left line of bolts after that.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013

7c Sport 35m, 14
14 Necke moyen to beguen tôl

Extension of Knidos.

Set: Ivan Muscat, Nov 2015

8b+ Sport 70m
15 Datça Rodeo

Starts behind the olive tree with a short slab before the action kicks in. Great tufa climbing for the full length high into the cave.

Set: olivier, 2014

7b+ Sport 35m, 17
16 Yelmek

Set: Fabrice Pini, 2014

7b+ Sport 24m
17 Üstsüz

Same first 3 bolts as Yelmek, then go right.

Set: Fabrice Pini, 2014

7b Sport 26m
18 Tubular Bell

A variant of Üstsüz branching out right at the tufas.

Set: Michel Piola

7b Sport 14
19 Il giardino del sirena

Set: Emrah Özbay, 2013

7b+ Sport 28m
20 See you next life

Extension 1 of "Il giardino del sirena" (2nd pitch).

Set: olivier, Sep 2014

7c Sport 35m
21 Out of next life

This is the line to an anchor just before the hard crux of "Out of energy" (3rd pitch).

FA: Adrien Boulon

8a+ Sport
22 Out of energy

Extension of "Out of next life" (4th pitch).

Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014

9a SportProject 55m
23 Out of energy - variant

A right variant of "Out of energy". Climb the first few bolts including the hard crux and then follow the right line of expansion bolts.

9a+ SportProject
24 Brocoli extension

Extension of "Out of energy" (5th pitch).

Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014

9a SportProject 70m
25 Rüzgar

The line starting with the obvious pockets.

Set: olivier, 2013

7b+ Sport 27m, 11
26 Toprak

Extension of Rüzgar.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015

8a Sport 45m
27 Meltem

Set: olivier & Evren Kirazli, 2013

7b/b+ Sport 27m, 14
28 Meltemosore

Extension of Meltem. Shares the anchor with "Zaman".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015

8a Sport 45m, 22
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Turkish Moon

Going up through the almost white crescent.

Set: Werner Luneau & Adrien Boulon, Nov 2014

8c Sport 30m, 16
30 Helmet and Katana

The route name is written on the rock. Finishes at the big hole, watch out for the owl that might live in there .

Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014

8a Sport 30m, 13
31 Zaman

Extension of "Helmet and Katana". Shares the anchor with "Meltemosore".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015

8b Sport 45m, 19
32 Limit of explosion

Right extension of "Helmet and Katana" (2nd pitch).

Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014

9a SportProject 55m
33 Over the limite

Extension of "Limit of explosion" (3rd pitch). Grade to be confirmed.

Set: Klemen Bečan, Nov 2014

9b SportProject 70m
34 Çeşme

Starts with a slabby section followed by technical climbing and a short, steeper section with tufas to the anchor.

Set: olivier, 2014

6c+ Sport 23m, 12
35 Kumpir

Goes up the vertical section inside the cave.

Set: olivier, 2014

6b+ Sport 20m, 8
36 Fort comme un tuc

Same start as "Can Baba" but then head left before the anchor, to the big hole and the anchor of "Helmet and Katana".

Set: Adrien Boulon, Feb 2015

8b+ Sport 30m, 13
37 Zor

Climb "Fort comme un tuc" and the extension called Zaman to make it Zor. Shares the anchor with "Meltemosore".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015

8b+/c Sport 45m, 19
38 Can Baba

The classic line at the bottom of the cave. Follows the line left of the obvious tufa. A must do.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013

6c+ Sport 25m, 9
39 Big Can Baba

Extension of "Can baba". Climbs to the anchor of "Keurban".

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun

8b+ Sport 40m, 18
40 Liquide comme une flaque

Just to the right of Can Baba on the less structured wall.

Set: Benjamin Coup, Feb 2015

7b+ Sport 25m, 8
41 What the mic mac

Straight up and then a bit right trending to the anchor just below the big hole. Initially graded 7c. In 2021 a hold broke, making it rather 7c+.

Set: olivier, 2014

7c+ Sport 25m, 10
42 Big Mac

Extension of "What the mic mac". Continues just right of the big hole to join "Big Can Baba" and climbs to the anchor of "Keurban".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015

8b/b+ Sport 45m, 18
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
43 Bouldervar

Start off to the right of the big massive penis like hanging tufa through a small roof, sustain with a crux in the middle.

Set: Werner Luneau & Nicolas Nastorg, 2014

7c+ Sport 28m, 11
44 Keurban

Extension of Bouldervar. Climbs to the anchor of Big Can Baba.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Feb 2015

8a+ Sport 45m
45 Testere

Powerful and tricky. Shares the anchor with "La française des vieux".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Jan 2015

7c Sport 28m, 9
46 La française des vieux

Left trending line with awesome technical and poweful climbing. Shares the anchor with Testere.

Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015

8a Sport 28m, 8
47 Kanunsuz

Starts between the first dark grey slabby tufas at the bottom of the wall and passes left of the stalagtite before the anchor.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014

7a Sport 17m, 7
48 A muerte bicho

Extension of Kanunsuz. Shares anchor with "Limit of explosion".

Set: Adrien Boulon, Nov 2015

8b+ Sport 55m
49 Rockumantary

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014

7c Sport 25m, 11
50 Mediteranean Dream

Another classic of the cave. Follow the line left of the round, dark grey tufa, then pass between the tufas to reach the last tricky section of the climb. This climb offers all styles in one!

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013

8a Sport 33m, 12
51 Live like Jay

Same start as Nefs but then left.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014

7b Sport 24m, 11
52 Nefs

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014

7c Sport 32m, 15
53 Freed From Desire

Extension of "Nefs". Goes up high to the top of the cave in the grey streak.

Set: Adrien Boulon, Dec 2017

FA: Florence Pinet, 2018

8a+ Sport 50m, 2
54 Kayıp Aphrodite

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014

8b+ Sport 33m, 15
55 Medusa

Initially graded 7c but downgraded by Zorbey to 7b+.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2014

7b+ Sport 35m, 15
56 Gorgon

Extension of Medusa.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun

8a+ Sport 45m
57 Vendeta

Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014

8a Sport 32m, 15

1.4. Uzak Zürafa 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.725313, 27.619810

description

Sector ranging from well bolted slabs for beginners to vertical and technical routes with some hard extensions. The left side of the cliff stays in the sun till late morning while the right side, closer to Can Baba, sees shade a bit earlier.

approach

Same as for Can Baba. Uzak Zürafa is actually the first sector you reach where the trail hits the impressive cliff. Some routes on the left but most to the right in direction Can Baba.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aphrodite

First pitch shares anchor with "Just perfect". This route has potential to be continued further up to the top of Indian Man.

Set: olivier & Ulfi, Sep 2014

6b Sport 87m, 3, 15
2 Just perfect

Runnels and pockets all the way on this long journey to the anchor of Aphrodite. Can obviously also be used as alternative pitch 1 to access pitch 2 of Aphrodite.

Set: Anja Becan, Nov 2014

6b Sport 37m, 14
3 Gospa vrtnarka

Set: Anja Becan, Nov 2014

6a Sport 35m, 14
4 Vieux Briscards

Water runnels and pockets all the way...

Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016

6a Sport 33m, 14
5 Les pères Noel

Starts where the path arrives at the rock. Just left of the bigger tree growing out of the rock.

Set: Lucien Abbet & olivier, Jan 2016

5c Sport 35m, 14
6 Lodos

Glue-in bolts all the way...

Set: olivier, 2013

5c Sport 40m, 13
7 Salim

Just a few meters to the right of Lodos on expansion bolts. Starts just left of the tree going to a big undercling flake and meanders the way up high.

Set: olivier, 2013

5c Sport 35m, 14
8 Full Pocket

Hike up a few meters and go left on the small ramp / ledge to a line of glue-ins.

Set: olivier

6a Sport 30m, 11
9 What da funk

Nice climbing on grey rock followed by some tufa style pockets.

Set: Evren Kirazli, 2013

6a+ Sport 30m, 11
10 Baslamah

Easier climbing to a distinct crux higher up.

Set: Rafsta, 2014

6b+ Sport 30m, 12
11 Göslamah

Follow the crack line and then trend slightly left.

Set: Rafsta, 2014

6a+ Sport 25m, 10
12 R.A.T

Another line of glue-ins, starting on grey rock and after 4, 5 bolts continuing on yellowish and reddish rock.

Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014

6a+/b Sport 20m, 10
13 Uzak Zurafa

The route that has the big, deep hole just above bolt 2. Climb the grey slab up to an orange section where the crux is.

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013

6b+ Sport 35m, 13
14 Acipayam

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013

7a Sport 25m, 10
15 Piolet

Same start as "Ilegal Man" but continues left at the 2nd last bolt.

Set: Michel Piola

7a+ Sport 30m
16 Ilegal Man

Technical climbing on small holds on very abrasive rock, step anywhere and climb!

Set: Zorbey Aktuyun, 2013

6c+ Sport 25m, 11
17 Tisane du soir

Extension of "Ilegal Man".

Set: Adrien Godat

7a+ Sport
18 Raki Broccoli

A technical slab climb on ‘broccoli’ features.

Set: olivier, Nov 2014

6c Sport 22m, 11
19 Lonely Wolf

Starts right where you hike up the last blocks before arriving at the level of the cave. Look for some tufas left above the anchor of Dionisos. The anchor is on the vertical section.

Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014

7a+ Sport 30m, 11
20 Fue buonito mientras duro

3 bolt extension of Lonely Wolf.

Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014

8a Sport 40m
21 Insomnio Turco

Extension of "Fue buonito mientras duro".

Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014

8c Sport 60m
22 Dionisos

Small crimps, technical climbing at its finest.

Set: olivier, Nov 2014

6b Sport 20m, 9
23 Efes efect

Just 2 meters right of Dionisos.

Set: olivier, Nov 2014

6b+ Sport 20m, 9
24 Pocket Dog

Another great technical climb, high feet, one or the other small crimp, great moves.

Set: olivier, Nov 2014

6c Sport 20m, 11
25 Magic Room

Left extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow the left bolt-line with a small roof for this extension.

Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014

8a Sport 40m, 19
26 Respect Datça

Middle extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the drak grey stripe from there. There is one more extension going out left and one more further right, all starting with this bolt.

Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014

7c+ Sport 37m, 18
27 Nice Future

Extension of "Respect Datça".

Set: David Gambus, Dec 2014

8c+ Sport 55m
28 Hayal

Right extension of Pocket Dog. Pass right of the anchor of Pocket Dog and clip the bolt there. Follow up through the dark orange section of rock and follow the rightmost bolt-line.

Set: Werner Luneau, Dec 2014

7c+ Sport 37m, 20
29 La Rambo

Small gastons and crimps all the way. First bolt is just under the undercling flake.

Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014

7a Sport 20m, 7
30 El Bronson

Another technical climb going up left of the big flake. The sting is in the last few bolts.

Set: Rafsta, Nov 2014

7b Sport 22m, 9

1.5. Shaman 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.724652, 27.618721

description

Beautiful compact grey rock. This sector is high but the routes are bolted in 3 pitches, the lower pitches are between 5b and 7b, the middle ones between 6c+ and 7c, and the third ones above 7c. Great climbing for cold days as it is very sunny.

approach

Same as for "Uzak Zürafa" but just before you reach the cliff, take the obvious trail to the left, first flat and then going up along the cliff. Take the first turn-off to the right to reach the right end of Shaman, hard to miss.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yildiz

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

5b Sport 18m, 11
2 Kosmos

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

5c Sport 20m, 10
3 Baba Zula

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

5c+ Sport 20m, 11
4 Gros chagrin

Extension of Baba Zula.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a Sport 50m, 23
5 Bulut

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

5c+ Sport 20m, 11
6 Zeki

Extension of Bulut.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a+ Sport 50m, 24
7 Parfum de gitanes

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

6a Sport 18m, 9
8 Science friction

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

6b+ Sport 18m, 9
9 El kedi

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

6b Sport 18m, 9
10 L’homme chat

Extension of "El kedi".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7a Sport 40m, 20
11 Nico3D

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

6a+ Sport 20m, 12
12 Arcator

Extension of Nico3D (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7c+ Sport 40m, 20
13 L3 Nator

Extension of Arcator (3rd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a Sport 55m, 25
14 Escalator

Same start as Nico3D but right (straight) exit. Starts at the crack / broken corner just left of the bulge.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

6b Sport 20m, 8
15 Remake up

Extension of Escalator.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a Sport 45m, 21
16 Mercan dede

Set: olivier, Jan 2015

6b+ Sport 20m, 11
17 Wazabi

Extension of Mercan dede (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7b Sport 40m, 21
18 Orkinos

Extension of Wazabi (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with "Be brave, escape!".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a+ Sport 55m, 28
19 Serial kinder

Shares anchor with "Never stop Köfteing".

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

7a Sport 20m, 11
20 Never stop Köfteing

Shares anchor with "Serial kinder". The right route that starts in the bulge.

Set: Adrien Boulon & Yannik Bonnin, Mar 2015

7c Sport 20m, 10
21 Zenith

Set: Yannik Bonnin, Jan 2015

7a Sport 20m, 12
22 Peter Pine

Extension of Zenith.

Set: Adrien Boulon, Mar 2015

7a+ Sport 40m, 22
23 Sulh

Set: Carla Häsler & olivier, Jan 2015

6b Sport 20m, 11
24 TomTom finger

Extension of Sulh (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7c Sport 40m, 20
25 Be brave, escape!

Left extension of "TomTom finger" (3rd pitch). Shares anchor with Orkinos.

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a+ Sport 55m, 26
26 Jeux d’enfants

Right extension of "TomTom finger" (alternative 3rd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8b+ Sport 60m, 28
27 Görkova

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7a+ Sport 33m, 12
28 Körfezi

Extension of "Görkova".

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7c Sport 50m, 19
29 Shaman

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

6c Sport 33m, 14
30 DJ shaman

Extension of Shaman (2nd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

7c+ Sport 50m, 21
31 Abusez moi !

Extension of "DJ shaman" (3rd pitch).

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Mar 2015

8a+ Sport 70m, 30
32 Incantation

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

7a+ Sport 33m, 14
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 Incantation Revelation

"Incantation" is a wonderful single pitch route on the right side of sector Shaman that was up opened up by Swiss climber, olivier in March 2015.

Incantation Revelation is a high-quality multi-pitch extension of Incantation that continues to the top of Indian Man (The prominent cliff face in Datça). This was the first sport route that tackles the headwall in its entirety and was opened up in January of 2022 through a team effort by traveling Alaskan, German and British climbers. (Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston)

Incantation Revelation can be done in three or four pitches, depending on whether or not one wants to skip the third pitch intermediate anchor. The climbing style is varied and rock quality is consistently high from top to bottom making for a wonderful climbing experience if one is able to tackle the grade. The bolt spacing is user-friendly and consistent with the president that has been on most routes in Datça.

P1. 7a+, 20 bolts, 46 meters. Start up Incantation for a high-quality face climbing experience on glew-in bolts for 33 meters. Continue another 13 meters past the Incantation anchor on expansion bolts up the steep and sometimes intimidating looking face, trending slightly right near the top. Cauliflower rock may rough but there is a path through and a great deal of beautiful climbing beyond. In dry conditions you can enjoy jugs and side pulls to the right. If the tufa is seeping it may be a better option to punch straight up the face where you will discover a two bolt anchor that is located at the first large ledge in the dihedral directly above a cave.

P2. 7a+/b, 14 bolts, 34 meters. Climb from the nice belay ledge and trend slightly left on steep balancey arete / inside corner moves. Pull onto high quality face climbing through vertical terrain before the angle eases off but the difficulty does not. Take your time at the ledge before firing off one last three bolt sequence at a steep arete before reaching a set of chains at a comfy belay.

P3. 7a, 19 draws 44 meters. From the belay, follow bolts up the arete to a sloped ledge for an nice rest. Pull through a steep section of technical climbing before entering into a dihedral. At the 22 meter mark you will encounter a two-bolt anchor that can be used as an intermediate belay or continue for another 22 meters of 6c+ quality, steep climbing on the upper face to the top of the cliff.

Descent: (Walk Off) If conditions are windy it is highly advised to walk off and avoid rope snag potential. Continue from the two bolt chain anchor at the top of the steep climbing and scramble an additional 10 meters. These fourth class moves are protected by 1 bolt and will lead to a two bolt anchor with no rap rings located beyond the top of the cliff. Walk / scramble third class terrain, trending left and uphillfor about 150 meters. Always stay within 10 meters of the ridge line until you reach the summit and be cautious not to knock loose rocks over the edge of the cliff where climbers may be located below. Continue to follow the ridge left and downhill for another 200 meters until you arrive at the saddle. From the saddle follow a trail and karens (rock piles) downhill staying roughly 10 m away from the base of the cliff and work your way to sector Nastrolopitheque. Continue on the well-established approach trail to Sektor Shaman.

(Rappel) If wind is not a factor you can descend to the route using a variety of anchors from a variety of climbs including Incantation Revelation or Abusez moi ! The most straightforward is listed below.

(80 meter rope) If you have an 80 meter rope rappel directly down the chain anchors of Incantation Revelation. Be sure to start with two short 22 meter raps that avoid rope snag potential. Mind your rope ends because the last last rap is a rope stretcher that will get you safely to the ramp below yet still give you a couple meters of easy scrambling before arriving at flat ground.

Set: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston, 7 Feb 2022

7b Sport 120m, 3, 20
34 Lahmacun sokak

Same start as Incantation but directly right towards the big hole on top.

Set: olivier, Mar 2015

6a Sport 35m, 15
35 Dünya

Dünya - After the dog that kept us company during our stay in Datça.

Starts with “Lahmacun sokak” and traverses to the right. 7b (7a+obl.) 130m.

This 7th grade multipitch takes you to the upper part of the south face of Indian man. Delicate slab climbing on the good quality grey limestone and some vertical climbing on pocketed yellow rock takes you almost to the top of the wall. Bring 17 quickdraws and a 70m rope. Descent with four 35m abseils to the left to the start of the route.

Note: Climbing to the top of the wall is possible if you take a few cams (BD 3, 2 and 0.2) and a kingsling. Walking down, with some easy climbing, can be done to both sides of the mountain. The descent by abseiling down is more convenient though.

Set: Rosemerijn Struijk & Sjors Verberg, 26 Feb 2022

7b Sport 140m, 4, 17

1.6. Papinosaure 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.724590, 27.618121

description

Just around the corner from Shaman you find slabby and vertical face climbing, very well bolted ideal for beginners.

approach

Same as for "Shaman" but continue the trail up for a little bit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trous bas d’ours

Set: olivier, Nov 2015

6a+ Sport 27m
2 Crackouille

Set: olivier, Nov 2015

6b Sport 27m
3 Fabulations libre

Set: olivier, Nov 2015

6b+ Sport 29m
4 Erdictator

Set: olivier, Nov 2015

6b+ Sport 35m
5 Dalouz

Same start as Erdictator but then right.

Set: olivier, Nov 2015

6c Sport 35m
6 Diedro

Set: olivier, Nov 2015

6a Sport 36m

1.7. Nastrolopitheque 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 36.724888, 27.617532

description

This is a small yellow cave, slightly overhanging with a few more easy routes further left on grey rock.

approach

One of the longer approaches in Datça. Follow the now steep path from Papinosaure up until you see the obvious cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Left Ramp

These 3 routes are left (a bit further up) of the small cave on grey rock.

2 Nastrologik

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

5a Sport 35m
3 Nastrolopitheque

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

5c Sport 35m
4 Nastral

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

6a Sport 35m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Cave

These are the routes in the obvious small cave.

6 Nastronator

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

8a Sport 40m
7 Nastrodamus

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

7c Sport 20m
8 In nasty veritas

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

7a Sport 20m
9 Nastrophsichien

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

8b+ Sport 40m
10 Trop naz

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

SportProject 40m
11 Nastro le petit robot

Set: Nicolas Nastorg, Nov 2015

SportProject 40m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5a Nastrologik Sport 35m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
5b Yildiz Sport 18m, 11 1.5. Shaman
5c Les pères Noel Sport 35m, 14 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Lodos Sport 40m, 13 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Salim Sport 35m, 14 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Kosmos Sport 20m, 10 1.5. Shaman
Nastrolopitheque Sport 35m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
5c+ Dişsiz Sport 35m 1.2. Ejderha
Parmak rendesi Sport 20m 1.2. Ejderha
Baba Zula Sport 20m, 11 1.5. Shaman
Bulut Sport 20m, 11 1.5. Shaman
6a Variante Sport 35m 1.2. Ejderha
Full Pocket Sport 30m, 11 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Gospa vrtnarka Sport 35m, 14 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Vieux Briscards Sport 33m, 14 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Lahmacun sokak Sport 35m, 15 1.5. Shaman
Parfum de gitanes Sport 18m, 9 1.5. Shaman
Diedro Sport 36m 1.6. Papinosaure
Nastral Sport 35m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
6a+ Köfte party Sport 27m, 14 1.1. Sektor Ay
Macarnator Sport 27m 1.1. Sektor Ay
Rüyalar rutubetli Sport 15m, 7 1.1. Sektor Ay
Göslamah Sport 25m, 10 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
What da funk Sport 30m, 11 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Nico3D Sport 20m, 12 1.5. Shaman
Trous bas d’ours Sport 27m 1.6. Papinosaure
6a+/b R.A.T Sport 20m, 10 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
6b Bonfile pene Sport 27m 1.1. Sektor Ay
Les spaghettis du paradis Sport 25m 1.1. Sektor Ay
Süper karga Sport 18m, 8 1.1. Sektor Ay
Aphrodite Sport 87m, 3, 15 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Dionisos Sport 20m, 9 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Just perfect Sport 37m, 14 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
El kedi Sport 18m, 9 1.5. Shaman
Escalator Sport 20m, 8 1.5. Shaman
Sulh Sport 20m, 11 1.5. Shaman
Crackouille Sport 27m 1.6. Papinosaure
6b+ Susadım Sport 35m, 17 1.1. Sektor Ay
Kumpir Sport 20m, 8 1.3. Can Baba
Baslamah Sport 30m, 12 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Efes efect Sport 20m, 9 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Uzak Zurafa Sport 35m, 13 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Mercan dede Sport 20m, 11 1.5. Shaman
Science friction Sport 18m, 9 1.5. Shaman
Erdictator Sport 35m 1.6. Papinosaure
Fabulations libre Sport 29m 1.6. Papinosaure
6b+/c Furie Nocturne Sport 35m 1.2. Ejderha
6c Isviçre peyniri Sport 18m, 8 1.1. Sektor Ay
Pocket Dog Sport 20m, 11 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Raki Broccoli Sport 22m, 11 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Shaman Sport 33m, 14 1.5. Shaman
Dalouz Sport 35m 1.6. Papinosaure
6c+ Ay Sport 33m 1.1. Sektor Ay
Pure Pocket Sport 20m, 8 1.1. Sektor Ay
Dans le pantalon Sport 20m 1.2. Ejderha
Ejderha Sport 35m 1.2. Ejderha
Can Baba Sport 25m, 9 1.3. Can Baba
Çeşme Sport 23m, 12 1.3. Can Baba
Ilegal Man Sport 25m, 11 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
7a Gamba gamba Sport 25m 1.2. Ejderha
Kanunsuz Sport 17m, 7 1.3. Can Baba
Acipayam Sport 25m, 10 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
La Rambo Sport 20m, 7 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
L’homme chat Sport 40m, 20 1.5. Shaman
Serial kinder Sport 20m, 11 1.5. Shaman
Zenith Sport 20m, 12 1.5. Shaman
In nasty veritas Sport 20m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
7a+ Drilling instructor Sport 20m 1.2. Ejderha
Lonely Wolf Sport 30m, 11 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Piolet Sport 30m 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Tisane du soir Sport 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Görkova Sport 33m, 12 1.5. Shaman
Incantation Sport 33m, 14 1.5. Shaman
Peter Pine Sport 40m, 22 1.5. Shaman
7 4 in a pocket Sport 20m 1.2. Ejderha
Black Block Sport 20m 1.2. Ejderha
7b Live like Jay Sport 24m, 11 1.3. Can Baba
Tubular Bell Sport 14 1.3. Can Baba
Üstsüz Sport 26m 1.3. Can Baba
El Bronson Sport 22m, 9 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Dünya Sport 140m, 4, 17 1.5. Shaman
Incantation Revelation Sport 120m, 3, 20 1.5. Shaman
Wazabi Sport 40m, 21 1.5. Shaman
7b/b+ Meltem Sport 27m, 14 1.3. Can Baba
7b+ YetToBeNamed_02 Sport 15m 1.2. Ejderha
Datça Rodeo Sport 35m, 17 1.3. Can Baba
Il giardino del sirena Sport 28m 1.3. Can Baba
Liquide comme une flaque Sport 25m, 8 1.3. Can Baba
Medusa Sport 35m, 15 1.3. Can Baba
Rüzgar Sport 27m, 11 1.3. Can Baba
Yelmek Sport 24m 1.3. Can Baba
7c Chere Mobilière Sport 18m, 7 1.3. Can Baba
Knidos Sport 35m, 14 1.3. Can Baba
Nefs Sport 32m, 15 1.3. Can Baba
Rockumantary Sport 25m, 11 1.3. Can Baba
See you next life Sport 35m 1.3. Can Baba
Testere Sport 28m, 9 1.3. Can Baba
Körfezi Sport 50m, 19 1.5. Shaman
Never stop Köfteing Sport 20m, 10 1.5. Shaman
TomTom finger Sport 40m, 20 1.5. Shaman
Nastrodamus Sport 20m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
7c+ Bread and roses Sport 15m 1.2. Ejderha
Black Hole Sport 34m, 12 1.3. Can Baba
Bouldervar Sport 28m, 11 1.3. Can Baba
Milkyway Sport 45m, 20 1.3. Can Baba
Radio Datça Sport 35m, 11 1.3. Can Baba
What the mic mac Sport 25m, 10 1.3. Can Baba
Hayal Sport 37m, 20 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Respect Datça Sport 37m, 18 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Arcator Sport 40m, 20 1.5. Shaman
DJ shaman Sport 50m, 21 1.5. Shaman
8a Canavar Sport 35m 1.2. Ejderha
Fire in the black hole L2 Sport 55m, 21 1.3. Can Baba
Helmet and Katana Sport 30m, 13 1.3. Can Baba
La française des vieux Sport 28m, 8 1.3. Can Baba
Mediteranean Dream Sport 33m, 12 1.3. Can Baba
Meltemosore Sport 45m, 22 1.3. Can Baba
Solucan Sport 45m 1.3. Can Baba
Toprak Sport 45m 1.3. Can Baba
Vendeta Sport 32m, 15 1.3. Can Baba
Fue buonito mientras duro Sport 40m 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Magic Room Sport 40m, 19 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
Gros chagrin Sport 50m, 23 1.5. Shaman
L3 Nator Sport 55m, 25 1.5. Shaman
Remake up Sport 45m, 21 1.5. Shaman
Nastronator Sport 40m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
8a+ Freed From Desire Sport 50m, 2 1.3. Can Baba
Gorgon Sport 45m 1.3. Can Baba
Kebabomaniac Sport 32m, 15 1.3. Can Baba
Keurban Sport 45m 1.3. Can Baba
Out of next life Sport 1.3. Can Baba
Abusez moi ! Sport 70m, 30 1.5. Shaman
Be brave, escape! Sport 55m, 26 1.5. Shaman
Orkinos Sport 55m, 28 1.5. Shaman
Zeki Sport 50m, 24 1.5. Shaman
8b Busca show L1 Sport 30m, 9 1.3. Can Baba
Zaman Sport 45m, 19 1.3. Can Baba
8b/b+ Big Mac Sport 45m, 18 1.3. Can Baba
8b+ A muerte bicho Sport 55m 1.3. Can Baba
Big Can Baba Sport 40m, 18 1.3. Can Baba
Fire in the black hole L3 Sport 65m 1.3. Can Baba
Fort comme un tuc Sport 30m, 13 1.3. Can Baba
Kayıp Aphrodite Sport 33m, 15 1.3. Can Baba
Necke moyen to beguen tôl Sport 70m 1.3. Can Baba
Jeux d’enfants Sport 60m, 28 1.5. Shaman
Nastrophsichien Sport 40m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
8b+/c Zor Sport 45m, 19 1.3. Can Baba
8c Breizh île Sport 50m 1.3. Can Baba
Esperanto Sport 45m, 21 1.3. Can Baba
Turkish Moon Sport 30m, 16 1.3. Can Baba
Insomnio Turco Sport 60m 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
8c+ Busca show L2 Sport 70m 1.3. Can Baba
Nice Future Sport 55m 1.4. Uzak Zürafa
9a Brocoli extension SportProject 70m 1.3. Can Baba
Limit of explosion SportProject 55m 1.3. Can Baba
Out of energy SportProject 55m 1.3. Can Baba
9a+ Out of energy - variant SportProject 1.3. Can Baba
9b Over the limite SportProject 70m 1.3. Can Baba
? Nastro le petit robot SportProject 40m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
Trop naz SportProject 40m 1.7. Nastrolopitheque
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