Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Left Cave | ||||||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Apr 2013 | ||||
I thought the tufa would be the hard part, sustained edges and pockets in the top half.
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Mar 2014 | ||||
Nearly died of heatstroke at 2pm. Left the draws on the bottom half, and came back to send at 5pm.
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7a | ★★★ Camelita - with Chris | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Really cool route, did it in the sun and peeled off the crimps. It's the name of my bungalow so I'm going to need to do tick it!
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7a | ★★★ Camelita - with Peter | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Nov 2015 | ||||
Did this with the skin of my teeth... Hard for the grade!!
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7a | ★★★ Camelita - with Beatrice | 24m, 6 | Mon 14th Nov 2016 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita - with Helge | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | Fri 4th Nov 2016 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | Thu 30th Nov 2017 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 19th Nov 2018 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th Dec 2018 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita - with Anna Straussova | 24m, 6 | Sat 5th Jan 2019 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Dec 2013 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Oct 2008 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Thu 31st Dec 2009 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd May 2014 | ||||
Technique. Runouts.
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Sun 15th Jan 2012 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Dec 2020 | ||||
Very space out bolts and run out at some Points, tricky to read in the middle where the crux is with crimps and complex foot sequences that keeps you on your toes all the way to the hallelujah jug near the anchors.
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Jan 2021 | ||||
Give it one or two more bolts and it might as well become the crag classic!
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Sun 3rd Jan 2021 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Dec 2020 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Nov 2021 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Thu 18th Feb 2021 | |||||
2nd Go
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Oct 2022 | ||||
The crux starts at the big left undercling. I needed to use the intermediate pocket and a tiny crimp to reach the next solid undercling. It doesn't end there. It is balancy and committing until you are past the next bolt. As long as you aren't too pumped the holds are all there! Lots of fun!
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7a | ★★★ Camelita — 2 attempts | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Nov 2022 | ||||
Did the crux from big hole not as undercling, and went straight for the sharp knob and then to the small hole, this one as side / undercling for 2-3 fingers. Get your left foot up and go for the sharp little edge. Finish of on balance and sharp edges with finger power.
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7a Hard | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 26th Nov 2022 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Fri 2nd Dec 2022 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 21st Dec 2022 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Thu 16th Mar 2023 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Mar 2023 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Thu 2nd Nov 2023 | |||||
7a Hard | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Nov 2023 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Nov 2023 | ||||
Awesome route, BUT very poor bolting and sketchy anchor
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Mon 1st Jan 2024 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita — 3 attempts | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | ||||
Very technical Vertical climbing. Got nervous in the 2nd go at the crux move
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7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Camelita | 24m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Jan 2024 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Jan 2012 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Dropzone - with Steffen Ha | 24m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jan 2021 | ||||
Very run out and a hard crux in the middle, I was lucky I got the flash beta as I definitely would have a hard time onsighting this climb putting the draws in. Cool climbing on tufas and sloppers and crimps up top. Just be Aware it is very sparsely bolted and run out at some points, good mental training for the Frankenjura
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7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Mar 2021 | ||||
Falling mindgames
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7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | Sat 27th Mar 2021 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | Fri 11th Jan 2019 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | ★ Good | Wed 4th Jan 2023 | ||||
Had done Going out west before.
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7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | |||||
Pretty nice route
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7a+ | ★★ Dropzone | 24m, 7 | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Dropzone — 2 attempts | 24m, 7 | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | |||||
7c+ | ★★ Going Out West | 24m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Nov 2022 | ||||
Such a fun sequence. Thanks for the psych, energy and beta Rory. Inspired me to try hard again!
Athletic |
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8a+ | ★★ Family Affair | 15m, 6 | Mon 19th Nov 2018 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ Family Affair - with Jay_Endean | 15m, 6 | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | |||||
Just one go in the dark with some high psych trance playing. Did two mega links for me. From the floor into the double undercling kneebar rest, took there and then did it up to the match. Still need to figure out my beta for after the last tufa. Also need to actually try the top - was very wet again today. Linking the two pieces together is going to be haaaard! Really need to get better in the rest. Such a mega route! Reckon it might take the whole season
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8a+ | ★★ Family Affair - with Özge | 15m, 6 | Sat 8th Jan 2022 | |||||
One quick go with the aim of working out the lower section. Was the only thing dry. Managed to get significantly better beta for the lower part, and then also figured out a new heel hook beta for the move to the lower tufa (thanks Andris). Feels like it'll go once it's dry again.
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8a+ | ★★ Family Affair - with Özge | 15m, 6 | Sat 22nd Jan 2022 | |||||
Ooooooohaaaaa!!! Cannot believe it just went! Have never fought so hard in my life. Tried sooooo fricking hard and pulled through. Felt amazing. First go after a quick warm up. Very pleased with this one
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8a+ | ★★ Family Affair — 2 attempts | 15m, 6 | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ Family Affair — 2 attempts | 15m, 6 | Wed 8th Mar 2023 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ Family Affair — 2 attempts | 15m, 6 | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ Family Affair | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Dec 2022 | ||||
After the 2nd burn went really well, took another few burns not to butcher it :') Low hanging fruit
Athletic |
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8a+ | ★★ Family Affair | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Dec 2023 | ||||
8a+ | ★★ Family Affair | 15m, 6 | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | 2014 | ||||
Super cool route!
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Victor Michael | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Oct 2015 | ||||
Gave it a go, awesome different roof climbing, its on till the end. Can't wait to get on again
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Silas | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Fell at the first crux, happy to even get that far. Worked out the moves at the top. Yay!
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Alex Melnikau | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Nov 2015 | ||||
Got through the first crux clean, second crux needed a little more work. Alex found a key hold. Very doable now. Did the top clean after the crux.
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Alex Melnikau | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Nov 2015 | ||||
Worked the moves, such a sweet route!
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Alex Melnikau | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | ||||
Gave it a good go after eating a whole bunch of food. Grabed the jug in the crux and let go... Noooo but high point
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Alex Melnikau | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | ||||
Wow was tired >< had to bail...
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond - with Vincent Martinez | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Nov 2015 | ||||
Felt super psyched this morning! Remembered that I had to stay super solid in the crux and I finally stuck the crux move. Nervous at the top but pulled it off Hard route for me!!!
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Tue 22nd Jan 2019 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Mon 4th Feb 2019 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Mon 4th Feb 2019 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Sun 17th Feb 2019 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Sun 17th Feb 2019 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 5th Mar 2019 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 5th Mar 2019 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Wed 5th Nov 2008 | |||||
2008-11-05
Just go for it!
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Oct 2008 | ||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Thu 20th Mar 2014 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Tue 3rd Mar 2020 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | Sun 8th Oct 2017 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Dec 2022 | ||||
Spicy jugs in a roof on a hot day in the sun. Not ideal Connie's but Selvester was psyched
Athletic |
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond — 2 attempts | 28m, 12 | Thu 5th Oct 2023 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond — 2 attempts | 28m, 12 | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Oct 2023 | ||||
Super fun route, tricky initial boulder on the tufas, great rest and then the roof crux is amazing on finger jugs. Had to fight not to drop the top too. 5th go.
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7c+ | ★★★ Junimond | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Jan 2024 | ||||
15 |
★★ Firestarter, Süpernova
- with
Sebastian Plinke
1
15
lead by
Jens
2
| 28m, 16 | Wed 8th Jan 2014 | |||||
5b |
★★ Firestarter, Süpernova (Firestarter, Süpernova P1)
1
5b
28m
| 28m, 16 | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ Firestarter, Süpernova | 28m, 16 | Tue 3rd Mar 2020 | |||||
8a+ | ★★ Firestarter, Süpernova | 28m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Jan 2017 | ||||
8a+ | ★★ Firestarter, Süpernova (Süpernova) | 28m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | ||||
Excited to do this. Shows me i can still climb and after 3 weeks, my body is back in the game. Didnt put too much effort into getting this one, but psyched to have done it as my last route on the last day:D
Athletic |
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5b |
★★ Firestarter, Süpernova P1
1
5b
| 28m, 16 | Average | Tue 28th Feb 2023 | ||||
5b |
★★ Firestarter, Süpernova P1
- with
Victoria Safonova
1
5b
| 28m, 16 | ★ Good | Fri 5th May 2023 | ||||
5b |
★★ Firestarter, Süpernova P1
1
5b
| 28m, 16 | Tue 31st Oct 2023 | |||||
7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2013 | ||||
Mmm wanted to try and onsight this but turned out to be an extended dog session
I will be back on it before I leave but it has a very short send window in the arvo, after 6pm when it goes into the shade and is a popular route.
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7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | 2014 | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon - with Vincent Martinez, Craig Hitchcock | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Nov 2015 | ||||
Flash attempt but got pretty pumped. Pockets are so hard to hold when you grab them the wrong way.
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7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon - with Vincent Martinez, Craig Hitchcock | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th Nov 2015 | ||||
Yeow, the classic goes down with style!
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7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Dec 2015 | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Black Moon - with Beatrice | 30m, 11 | Mon 14th Nov 2016 |