Ascents in Alabalık Balkon as Red point

bolting is not onsight friendly

2nd Go

Classic line in Alabalik! The route is quite short and bouldery with 3 defined cruxes with 2 ok'isch kneebar rest in between.

The only reason why it got 3 from 4 stars is the conditions. On sunny days there is just a 1.5h window in the evening to try, and there were a lot of sunny days in winter 2023 That makes it especially difficult to be ready and fit when the wheatear is good.

Finally ticked off my first 7a+ some time after doing 7b 🥳 great route!

Auch hier leider wieder knapp den Onsight verpasst. Wo sich die Routen trennen für mich am Besten mit einem Kreuzer nach links rauszuklettern um die Füsse gut zu platzieren und den Sloper schöne verlängern zu können.

Knapp den Onsight verpasst. Beim letzten schweren Zug zum falschen Griff gezogen und den besseren Henkel leider nicht gesehen. Im zweiten Versuch ging es dann grad recht gut. Oben raus ein langer Zug bei dem in der Waagerechte etwas Körperspannung benötigt wird.

Grrrrrr. Kinda kicked my ass in the crux. Took way too much energy to smash it in the end:') Soooo good

Overhang

At first the trav seemed daunting, but once youve done it, its super mellow. Just the headwall that spanks by the time you need to clip. Fun sequence. Extended perma anchor makes clipping more difficult:( Rad line. Psyched to have done 2 x 8s in a day:D

Athletic

first 2 goes I couldnt hold on because it was too cold. 3rd go in the sun, much better:D trav still felt hard:')

Endurance

Broke a pebble juglet on the upper crux, sending my flying. Next time was on wet holds after the rain:') such a fun bouldery thing

Cruxy

Fun fun in the sun. Sad to have given this a go while it was completely drenched, but such a good line, was fun to try more than once!!!

Athletic

Very cool

6c in the new guidebook and it seems worth the grade

2nd Go

Nice crux! Easier when tall.

Superb line with big moves on fairly good holds, still quite tricky to worked out a good sequence but it goes, ultra mega one for sure.