Nodes in Holyhead Mountain

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Node

Holyhead Mountain The under-rated bit of Gogarth that everyone always seems to pop back to because actually, it's a pretty good crag. Largely solid quartzite, with a great grade range and quality routes within each of the grades. Catches the sun pretty much all day.

Ramp A None
Ramp A
VS 5a Corkscrew None
VS 5a Thumbscrew None

Ramp B None
Ramp B
VD Vegetable Garden None
HVS 5b M Wall None
E4 6a M...M...Mother None
HS 4b Candlestick None
HVS 5c Puffin Shuffle None
VS 5a ★ Romulus None
HS 4b Remus None

Ramp C None
Ramp C
VD Wally's Folly None
S 4a Pigeon Hole Crack None
VD Primrose Hill None
S 4a The Wandering Primrose None
VS 4b The Wandering Primrose Variation None
M Primrose Hill Gutter None
S 4a Gon' Down Slow None
HS 4b Aint going down None
E1 5b P.C.H. None
E2 5c Breakaway None

Ramp D None
Ramp D
S ★ Stairs None
VS 5a Stairs Direct None
S 4a Teenage Kicks None
VS 4c The Grip None
HVS 5a Spreadeagle Crack None
E5 6b The Three Amigos None

Ramp E None
Ramp E
S Broken Corner None
VS 4c Curtains None
D Plimsole None
HVS 5a Nuts None
E2 5c Grendel None
VS 4c ★★ Cursing None
HVS 5a Cursing Direct Start None
E4 6b Skinned Up None
HVS 5a ★★ Little Women A varied route with a steep first pitch and a serious slabby finish. 1.5a Start in the tall cave to the right of 'Skinned Up' - at the foot of 'Teaser'. Climb to the top of the cave and pull out through blocks into a steep corner bounding the pinnacle on the right. Thrutch up this quickly to a big flat ledge. Thread Belays. 4c Climb the centre of the slabby back wall, thin and poorly protected.
VS 4c ★★ Teaser None
HVS 4c Step On The Wildside None
VS 5a ★★ Laceration None
VS 4c ★ Birthday Passage None
HS 4b ★ Pleasant Surprise None
HS 4b ★ A Seagull Called my Name None
S 4a ★ New Boots and Panties None
HS 4b Rhiannon None
HS ★★ Old Boots and Cut-Offs None
S 4a ★ Mrs Murdock None

Ramp F None
Ramp F
VS 5a Mental Block None
E1 4c Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast None
HS 4b Duffel None
HVS 5b C'est La Vie None
VS 4c The Abbey None
HVS 5b The Abbey Direct Finish None
D ★ The Sump None
HS 4b The Sump Direct None
S 4b The Elephant's Arse None
VS 4c Kit Kat None
E2 5b Minime None
E1 5b Pisa None
VD The Crack None

Yellow Wall None
Yellow Wall
S The Raver None
HS 4b Bloody Fingers None
E4 6b A Seagull At My Crisps None
S 4a ★ Thread None
E1 ★ Wind None
VS 4c Uhuru None
E1 5c Uhuru (Direct Start) None
VD Jones' Crack None
E2 5b Bran Flake None
E2 5c Shreddies None
E3 6b Croissant None
E4 6b Mirrored in the Cleft None
E3 6b Big Jim None
HVS 5a ★★ King Bee Crack None
E4 6a Snakebite Wall None
E4 6a Trouser Snake None
E4 6a ★★ Penny Mistakenly identified as Katana in previous guides. The first leftward trending diagonal crack to the right of 'King Bee Crack', ultimately joining that route near the top.
E3 6a ★★★ Sai Dancing Start at the foot of 'Penny'. Climb straight up the wall immediately right of 'Penny', via small pockets and cracks, to a ledge on 'Final Solution' '. Follow 'Final Solution' for about 4 meters, then move diagonally right across the steep headwall, with difficulty, to a crack. Climb this to a good hold and an old peg at it's top. Pull up onto the upper slabbier area then aim left to an overhung groove and follow this, with interest, to the top. An excellent pitch.
E3 5c ★★★ Final Solution None
E5 6a Trhern Arete None
E4 6b Twilight Zone None
E3 5c The Electric Spanking of War Babies None
E3 5c The Electric Lady Charlotte None
VS 4c Patience None
E3 6a A Slow Brew None
E3 6a Drying out None

Quartz Wall None
Quartz Wall
E1 5b The Unblue Crack None
VS 5a Andover None
E3 5c The Arrow None
HVS 5a ★ See Emily Play Start up the arete left of the corner of Tension - a bit bold unless you sidle rightwards into Tension itself. Jonin the groove of tension for 4 mts before launching out rightwards (rather pleasantly wild) across the undercut flake to a good layaway hold at it's end. Finish direct.
VS 4b ★★ Tension None
VS 4c ★★ Black and Tan None
E2 5c Point Taken None
E1 5b ★★ Breaking the Barrier None

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Nodes in Holyhead Mountain

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