Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mould of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious looking flake.
5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.
6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.
5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges.
There is no known route history.
E4 6a | Assigned grade |
★★★Daniel Mateos | |
E4 6a | Matt Tranter |
Author(s): Martin Crocker
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9780957281547
A definitive rock climbing guidebook covering the Avon Gorge, situated in the centre of Bristol, detailing Suspension Bridge Area, Main Wall Area, Sea Walls Area, and Leigh Woods Area.
Author(s): Steve Broadbent
Date: 2024
ISBN: 9781913167127
A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.
Author(s): Mark Glaister
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9781873341889
10 top climbing areas of the southwest of England - Wye Valley, Avon and Somerset, North Devon, Culm Coast, Inland Cornwall, Atlantic Coast, West Penwith, The Lizard, Inland Devon and Torbay
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