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Kent |
Tunbridge Wells
The Central Weald, situated on the borders of Kent and East Sussex, is home to a cluster of crags known as Southern Sandstone. This area is highly sought after by climbers living in the London and South East region. Of the several crags in this area, Harrison’s Rocks and Stone Farm Rocks are both owned by the BMC. |
Tunbridge Wells |
Harrison's Rocks
A notable example of a periglacial tor landform developed in rocks of the Tunbridge Wells Sand Formation |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks |
North Boulder
First large (obvious) boulder you pass on the approach path, with a clear area around it from bouldering activity. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks North Boulder |
6C
★★★ The sheriff
A well-liked and physically demanding challenge that moves over the nose of the boulder. The arete and the hold in the left break are both permissible as start holds. This initial position sets you up for powerful manoeuvres to be executed over the lip of the boulder. |
6B
★ Reve
Start as for Papillion, but as you approach the top, shift towards the right and ascend using the right-hand crack. |
4+
★ Groovy Graeme
A well-liked challenge that involves solid undercuts in the corner. Precise moves using your fingers are required to progress higher, leading to a delicate manoeuvre at the top to complete the climb. |
5
★★ Letterbox
Adjacent to Groovy Graeme. Ascend the bulge using undercuts to reach the jugs, and then mantel to finish. |
5
★ Sunset Wall
Located beside Letterbox, this problem features comparable undercuts to reach the break. You will then utilise a combination of crimps and jugs to progress higher, before facing a challenging top-out. |
5+
★ Layaway Cure
Between Sunset Wall and Torque Wrench. Ascend the corner of the boulder using the break and a semi-flake, with the objective of reaching the primary flake located higher up. |
6A+
★★ Torque Wrench
Ascend the steep, overhanging wall starting from the clear starting ledge using fingerlocks. May prove to be more challenging for the short. |
7A
★ Finger Flow
An eliminate boulder, utilising the small layaway holds situated between Torque Wrench and West Face. |
5+
★★ West Face Route
Climb the central groove located on the front face of North Boulder, which is situated between Finger Flow and Strong Struggle. |
6C
★ Strong Struggle
A challenging route located on the centre of the face, positioned immediately to the right of the West Face Route. |
6B+
Back Breaker
A challenging route that involves ascending steeply over the lip, passing by a small and inadequate thin pocket, and finally finishing up the rounded top-out. |
6B
Full on Fling
An eliminate that involves ascending the left-hand side of the North Boulder's nose, while staying to the right of the conspicuous slot present on Back Breaker. |
6B
★ Papillion
Ascend the steep, overhanging wall situated to the right of Strong Struggle, aiming directly for the two short cracks located at the top of the boulder. |
6A
Silver Star
A less challenging variation of The Sheriff, which involves some of the same holds. However, instead of exiting on the left side of the nose, this easier version proceeds to exit on the right side of the nose. |
5
★ Trigger
Climb in the middle of the wall, left of 'OK Coral' then move in a slightly leftward direction towards a handhold near the top. Mantle to finish. |
2+
Ok Corral
Ascend the south side of North Boulder, taking the easiest route available. |
5+
★ Ragtime
Ascend the middle of the rock face and navigate the last set of moves to surmount the top block. |
6A
★ Ziggy
Ascend the arete, primarily using the left side, based on your preferred climbing method. |
6B
★★ Red River
Ascend the route slightly right of the centre, utilising side-pulls and crimps. You may either gracefully grasp the top flat hold or opt for a dynamic move to reach it. |
6B
★ Piano
Ascend the rock face located between Red River and the Alligator Snatch arete. |
6B
★ Alligator Snatch
Ascend the arete, with both sit-down and standing start variations having the same difficulty |
6B+
★★ North Boulder Girdle Traverse
Traverse the North Boulder at a low level, with sustained movement and difficult manoeuvres required throughout the climb. |
6A+
★★ Torque Wrench Left
Start as for Torque Wrench but divert left for the finish |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks |
Sandown Crags
The crag section can be climbed only when the foliage is at its minimum because some of the top-outs could be unfeasible. This section is predominantly attractive to novices, with the exception of a few demanding routes or problems scattered here and there. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks Sandown Crags |
3a
The Ramp
A substandard and unclean route |
6a+
DJ Face the Music
Ascend the steep wall situated between The Ramp and Central Route using delicate and technical climbing techniques. The arete can also be climbed at a similar level of difficulty or marginally more challenging. |
3a
★ Central Route
Scale the crack with a slabby surface located in the middle of the buttress. |
4a
Usurer
This climb follows the juggy bulges located at the right-hand side of a lengthy, fragmented, and slightly sloping wall. |
2
★ Slab Centre
A problem that is both enjoyable and well-liked among climbers |
2
Slab Left
Harrison's Rocks is owned by climbers and is managed on their behalf by the British Mountaineering Council with funding from the English Sports Council. Car Parking is Pay and Display. If approaching from the train station, do not trespass the private property to get to zig-zag wall, instead follow the path to the left. |
2
Slab Right
Harrison's Rocks is owned by climbers and is managed on their behalf by the British Mountaineering Council with funding from the English Sports Council. Car Parking is Pay and Display. If approaching from the train station, do not trespass the private property to get to zig-zag wall, instead follow the path to the left. |
4
Slab Traverse
A entertaining challenge that involves traversing from 'Slab Right' to 'Slab Left' without using any handholds. |
3
The Last Train
Ascend the petite boulder located to the right of the slab by utilising small yet reliable footholds, then execute a mantel to surmount its peak. |
4+
Bridge Slab
Scale the brief slab situated to the left of Bridge Corner Left |
2+
Bridge Corner Left
Ascend the small left arete |
2+
Bridge Corner
This climb up the corner is frequently soiled or covered in dirt. |
3
Bridge Corner Right
Climb the very brief right face. |
2+
Twix
Ascend the front left portion of the slab located a few meters to the right of Bridge Corner Right |
2+
Milky Bar Kid
To the right of Twix, commence the climb from the jutting ledge. |
2+
Grotty Corner
Ascend the grimy corner past the small tree stump, and conclude by moving upwards and towards the right, past the tree stump located at the top. |
5
Come to Daddy
Ascend the rounded protrusion situated to the left of The Ramp. You may use the ledges on the right for handholds, but make sure to keep on the nose as you climb. |
5a
Part-Time DJ
Climb The Ramp while staying in line with the slab on DJ Face the Music. Traverse towards the right to finish the climb around the right side of the arete. |
4a
Rampette Direct
The direct start to Rampette, which comes in from the right |
6a
Theosaur
To the right Rampette Direct, as a result of clearance work, there is a vertical face. Ascend this face and execute a mantel to reach the ledge above. |
3c
Latte Bar
Climb the corner and twin cracks that converge at the top, located just to the left of the short bulging wall. |
4a
★ Wizard
Ascend the staircase until you reach and pass over a minor protrusion or roof. |
3a
Wizard's Little Apprentice
This route entails ascending a series of steps located on the left-hand side of the buttress. |
4a
★ Graham
A simple and direct ascent up the middle of the buttress. |
4b
Golden Graham's
The final manoeuvrer involves a challenging transition over the roof. |
3a
Hen of the Woods
A brief and straightforward route |
3a
Artist's Conk
Another route that is both brief in length and straightforward |
3a
Trembling Merulius
Similar to the previous routes, this one is also relatively easy, but the top-out can be muddy or dirty. |
3a
Jack O'Lantern
The climbing on this route is somewhat disconnected, and includes ascending to a holly tree. |
3a
Mushrooms
Ascend the groove |
3
Isobel
A brief challenge that consists of ascending a crack. |
3
Shrooms
A brief challenge that concludes with a transition over a small ledge |
2
Liberty Cap
This problem entails ascending a sloping rock face and concluding by reaching the top of the climb, where vegetation may be growing. |
3+
Sub-space Mushroom
A smooth and peculiar slab where the top-out is rather overgrown. |
3b
Stepped Slab
Ascend to the platform and finish with relative ease above it. |
3a
Mezzanine
Shift leftwards to finish |
3c
Urban Slab
Ascend the slab and with a holly tree exit |
4+
Bamboo
This is a brief challenge that involves a mantel halfway through. |
6A+
★★ Giant Panda
The ascent requires forceful manoeuvrers and footwork that may be somewhat perplexing, but the most challenging part turns out to be the top-out. |
3
★ Panda Car
Ascend the corner-crack by climbing up its right side. |
5
★★ Panda Pop
A pleasant and intricate challenge that begins with a reliable side-pull and concludes with a mantel onto the slim shelf situated above. |
5
★★ Panda Style
Comparable in style to Panda Pop. Utilise a small side-pull with the left hand to reach the ledge, followed by executing a mantel to stand upright on the ledge and then exiting. |
4
Panda Cub
Frequently covered in moss and appears green, but is feasible to climb when the surface is dry. |
5
★ Chinese Panda
A similar slabby nature as Panda Style. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks |
Green Wall
What initially seemed like a promising concept eventually turned into a minor catastrophe. This particular section of the climbing wall was excavated with the intention of generating longer routes. However, the revealed lower portions of the wall were largely devoid of features, rendering the routes significantly more challenging to initiate than they were before the excavation. Additionally, this area of the wall is susceptible to water seepage and the top-outs can be rather unclean. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks Green Wall |
4a
Trees are green
Choose the left-hand path on the damp and recessed wall, which is situated just to the right of a few tree routes. |
6c+
Photinia
Ascend the brief featureless wall on the left-hand side of the recessed buttress until you reach a slanting crack that leads to the large tree. |
7a
★ Teddy Bear's Picnic
Ascend to the break and make a forceful reach for the indistinct vertical cracks situated above, then finish by ascending the substantially better upper half. |
6c+
New Hat
Upon completing a featureless initial section, ascend the groove. Be aware that this section of the climb may be prone to seepage from the soil located above it. |
6b
★ Central Groove
Ascend the upper groove after another blank initial section. |
6b+
★ Dynamo
To reach the break, you can either make a long reach or execute a dyno. The upper half of the climb is generally more satisfying. |
6a
Usurper
This route features a lower section that is considered more manageable, which leads to the upper groove. |
6C
★ Green Wall Girdle
Traverse across the break using just your fingertips and finish by ascending Usurper |
7a
Special Invitation
Ascend the middle of the wall between Teddy Bear's Picnic and Central Groove by jumping to start, similar to New Hat. Proceed upward and to the left using a small incut hold and climb the wall located to the left of New Hat to complete the route in an awkward manner. |
7a
The Violent Sprat
Ascend the wall located 3 meters to the right of Usurper without utilising the arete. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks |
Kukri Wall
Following some maintenance work in 2014, this area has become considerably more climbable. Further improvements are anticipated once additional tree clearance work is completed, allowing for more sunlight to reach the rock. Despite these efforts, some areas of the rock may still be affected by seepage and there may be a bit of dirtiness due to a lack of regular climbing traffic. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks Kukri Wall |
5b
Penknife
Ascend the left-hand side of the overgrown Kukri Wall buttress via a mantleshelf and a brief crack. |
4b
★ Breadknife Buttress
Although not fully independent until you move to the left higher up, the best climbing on the wall can be found on this route. Finish the climb with a somewhat rounded and slightly awkward top-out. |
3c
★ Kukri Wall
Follow the central groove using holds that are currently in decent condition but may be somewhat dirty. It is anticipated that the condition of the holds will improve with time. |
5a
Kukri Wall Direct
To start, position yourself to the right of the holly tree and then ascend the right-hand side of the buttress directly. |
5a
Kukri Wall Tree
This route on the right-hand side is very similar to Kukri Wall Direct. Despite the name, do not utilise the tree during the climb. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks |
Kirby's Adventures
A small bouldering area that has been reclaimed, but it is not very popular due to the difficult top-outs. However, there is a possibility that the top-outs may clean up in the future. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks Kirby's Adventures |
4
★ Kirby's Adventures
An easy problem can be found on the left side of the face. |
6A
King Dedede
Start on side-pulls with low positive grip. To reach the break, a dynamic move may be necessary. At the top, tree roots can be utilised for holds. |
6B
★ Meta Knight
Grip the large pocket and side-pull on King Dedede, and make a slapping move towards the break. Finally, complete by using the stump. |
6B
★ Magolor
Ascend the arête by utilising the holds on the primary face located towards the left side. |
7A+
Ritual
From a sit-start, ascend the wall located between the Meta Knight and Magolor routes. |
5
Hopsbot Crack
Ascend the clear crack that is situated in the middle to right side of Magolor |
6A+
Yin-Yarn
A brief route that presents a challenging beginning |
5+
Dyna Blade
Spot the jug that is positioned high within the crack, and exert a strong effort to reach it in order to finish |
6B+
Animal Friends
With minimal foothold options positioned low on the route, initiate the climb using the side-pull grip. Complete the ascent by crossing over the substantial tree root. |
Tunbridge Wells Harrison's Rocks |
Eyelet Wall
The initial and relatively more attractive location at Harrison's that features several excellent micro-routes and boulder problems. |