Routes in Wye Valley for selected grade

Crank powerfully into the blank corner. Follow this up and through the two roofs above, generally with pitons for protection. Abseil lower-off at top.

Follow the large yellow wall. Start just right of a bolt. A hard move protects the better climbing above. Crank straight through the top roof after clipping pitons for protection

Start almost as for Yesterday's Dreams but try to stay to the right to the break. Traverse right onto a foot ledge then make a tricky and bold couple of moves up and then left to a big jug and bolt. Climb the groove, then pull left under a triangular roof. Climb up and right onto the arete which is followed past a stretch left to clip "Yesterday's " bolt and an in-situ thread to the bolt belay on Yesterday's Dreams

A block has fallen off the middle of this climb (see 1997 guidebook photo).

Start from the right hand peg belay on the terrace. Climb a corner and step left onto a block at its top. Then climb a shallow groove, pull over the small roof at its top and go diagonally right and up over easier broken ground. Two pegs mark the belay of wrong tap. Climb wrong tap to the very poor crux peg, then foot traverse left until beneath the steep grey wall. Step up and clip the peg, then make thin moves (crux) up the wall to ledges. Climb up off the right hand ledge (no more gear) and climb up to the top.

Two contrasting pitches that combine to give a sustained and complex line up the walls left of the edge of the North Wall. Described here with the direct variation on pitch one. Start at a clear patch of rock 5m left of the corner of The Angel's Eye.

1. 5c, 25m. Move up left onto a ledge and peg. Climb the tricky wall above to another peg and transfer left to a groove and cracks in orange-stained rock. Move up to the overhang and pull over (peg) and up the short wall to a good ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a belay below a block.

2. 5c, 32m. From the top of the block, go right and back left to the base of a flared rib. Follow the thin and technical rib, past a peg, to better holds. Move up and then head for a short crack on the right that leads to easier ground and The Great Ledge.

Direct through the overhangs on Big brother.

Location - Small Wall is reached by following the guide book description for Narcotic Corner & 'Suicide is Dangerous'. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, descend 3 metres to the multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small Wall. 'One For Button' takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of 'Under a Raging Moon' (see guidebook) Description - Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall, then traverse slightly left and straight up through several horizontal breaks to the thread. Move up (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then stretch out right (good friend) for a good hold(s). High step onto the upper wall for more good holds, protection and a rest. Climb the delightful technical wall above (peg) with a few difficult, thin moves and eventual slap to the ledge. (easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge. (A Second ascent awaits !! ) Additional info - Small Wall has been extensively cleaned, as has four of the existing routes in the guidebook. Three of these routes have also had their original threads replaced. 'Under a Raging Moon' (E2 5c) deserves a star. There is a second abseil station now in place for this route and the adjacent route 'Northerners Can't Climb' (E1 5b). 'Amoeba' (E1 5a) and 'Tiswas' (HS 4b) have been cleaned and compliment the other 3 routes.

The only sensible access to this route and others on Small Wall now are via the Guide books description to Narcotic corner and Suicide is dangerous. The climb and its neighbours have been extensively cleaned, in-situ threads have been replaced and an Abseil station installed on the ledge above instead of using the tree. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, walk 3 metres down the bank to a multi stemmed tree, traverse left (facing out) round the tree until under Small Wall. Use the Guide book from here. A great little route and a gem of a little crag now it has been cleaned.

The route is located on the 'Original Sector' of the Great Wall and is currently in the Lower Wye Valley guide book. The first pitch (5c) has now been extensively cleaned, the lower thread has been replaced and the pegs check out ok. The second pitch (5c) needed little cleaning. The route offers some very fine climbing, a little bold in places and certainly deserved to be recovered from the undergrowth.

A very good pitch. Begin at the large open corner. Take the corner for 10m to a thread and transfer to a ledge to its left (peg). Follow the small rib above until moves rightward reach a thread (not in place) just left of the base of the Yr Herwehla narrow corner/groove high on the face. From a foot-ledge above, (peg) locate a small, thin, left-leading crack and make some intricate moves up it and the wall above to reach a good break (some shattered rock here). Go right 2m and then up easy angled rock and some flakes to a belay on The Easy Way Down ledges. It is possible to descend from the Microserf lower-off after the hardest climbing.

A semi-sport climb that can be done as a single pitch. Begin right of the large open corner at some black stuck-on rock.

1. 5c, 27m. Move up to a horizontal break and then go left and up a crack past a peg and on to reach a ledge and peg. Follow the bolts and pegs above up a groove, over a bulge and past a flake and another groove to a double-bolt belay.

2. 5c, 10m. Move up past a bolt to a crack and another bolt above it. Head leftwards to finish at a ledge just left of the roof. This ledge is on The Easy Way Down.

Left hand start to Therapy, up the steep slab past a peg.

An interesting top section with reasonable protection, but it might be more enjoyable to start up Pulp Friction and traverse right above the lower roof.

Starts from 2 bolt belay above and right of the first pitch of Therapy. Gained by easy rising RW traverse from the stance of that route, or by abseil from near the easy way down. Step R and climb up to where you can span L from the crack to a good flake hold. Go through small roof; then dyno for jugs on ramp-line. Finish more easily, but with no further bolts, to an abseil station.

Start at the bolt and thread belay on the left side of the alcove as for Thrillennium. The climb takes the bulging wall to the left of Thrillennium.

Undercut steeply left past the first roof (peg). Move up to the hole, a second peg and an an in-situ thread. Now undercut up to a sidepull a small pocket and a peg (crux). Make finishing moves up the wall past a final peg with a little help from the left arete. When you abseil in it is advisable to give the top holds a brush, the route is prone to seepage but it does get the sun.

Route was cleaned on abseil and equipped with pegs and thread. I also pre placed the quickdraws on the pegs and thread as I have been suffering with tendinitis recently and wanted to give myself more of a chance. Unfortunately I had to take a point of aid on the crux. I then pulled the ropes and Adam Haward lead climbed the route clean with no rests. (I managed to slip over on the approach to the silver birch abseil and now have a gash in my buttock which needs hospital attention, be careful here).

Boulder up to the flake off slopey feet.

Direct finish past the thin wires.