pumped out trying to place gear in the crux, sat before it, then sat on it just to be sure it was good before continuing. need to either know the moves, know the gear, or climb with a bit of commitment, and I am 0/3 of these things.
Misread the crack above the overlap and whipped. Pretty comfortable the second time round, but didn't feel like repeating the intro thrutchy madness. Not today.
Set up a top-rope and did a lap to check out the moves and gear placements first. Nice doing something that's taller than 10m! The creaky flakes are not all that confidence inspiring. Bring a big nut for the crux.
in my effort to understand british grading i went to a climbing gym. onsighted multiple 6c+ on lead. oh great, i should be ok to do an e1 classic then. of course not. took 20 million takes on this route, inching up by placing a piece of gear every 2 feet or so on the crux where the jams run out and the layback starts. first half was greatjamming however. After floundering up for 45mins, Old mate stanage cave seconded up clean in about 10 seconds. which gave him thje confidence to attempt a lead on quietus.
Took one rest after floundering around on the holdless topout mantle. should of just gone a foot to the left and would of got it clean. alas. quite a sustained route. Was very cool to see an old school stone chock buried in the crack about two thirds of the way up. some climbing history on a historic route.
definitely a spicy number for the grade. only found 3 places for gear the whole route. And the last piece was a #1 cam almost completely filling a vital pocket that provide the only foothold to reach the arete. Was able to push it to the side and sneak a toe in. i guess this is grit stone! fairly insecure all the way. a great last climb of the trip when i had shredded tips but wanted one last hurrah.
