Ascents in Stanage Plantation

Shouldn’t have bothered with the TR faff, would have been better to just try it. Hopefully i’ll manage to steel myself enough to get this done before i leave. Heady! (x3)

Excellent, varied crack climbing with bomber gear. Highly recommended for the grade.

Very pleasant with some good mandatory jamming moves. Very impressed by Evie’s clean second

definitely a spicy number for the grade. only found 3 places for gear the whole route. And the last piece was a #1 cam almost completely filling a vital pocket that provide the only foothold to reach the arete. Was able to push it to the side and sneak a toe in. i guess this is grit stone! fairly insecure all the way. a great last climb of the trip when i had shredded tips but wanted one last hurrah.

in my effort to understand british grading i went to a climbing gym. onsighted multiple 6c+ on lead. oh great, i should be ok to do an e1 classic then. of course not. took 20 million takes on this route, inching up by placing a piece of gear every 2 feet or so on the crux where the jams run out and the layback starts. first half was great jamming however. After floundering up for 45mins, Old mate stanage cave seconded up clean in about 10 seconds. which gave him thje confidence to attempt a lead on quietus.

Took one rest after floundering around on the holdless topout mantle. should of just gone a foot to the left and would of got it clean. alas. quite a sustained route. Was very cool to see an old school stone chock buried in the crack about two thirds of the way up. some climbing history on a historic route.

Bold

Circa 1990

Tricky start leads to good climbing.

Squeesed this route in between the clouds.

Not getting any less committing...

Popped out my knee mid crux. Fell onto a blue alien placed blind, but it held...

Interesting top out.

Top out not getting any easier.

Good climbing up the arete.

Good to finally lead this.

Committing for the short.

Traverse is run out, but perhaps I traversed too high or low. My break had no gear in it.

Good enought to solo.

A must do.

One of Gritstones finest climbs - a 'must do'.